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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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c-series don

@Lee1977 I believe you’re correct about the sickle bar mount. I am not aware of anything else that bolts up to that? If there is I’d like to know what it is just for the heck of it!! 

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peter lena

@Ed Kennell  put a new fuel pump on one of my c-12-8 ,s  also had a relay at the same time . at the bottom of dash , loose its electrical connection . moved the relay to a solid  mount spot , added an extension wire to its connection , to eliminate wire hang , that probably caused issue . up until  that point , everything  has been issue free. like to stay on top of it , to minimize problems . pete

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squonk

Had a little fun removing an inner input shaft brg. on a 5025 trans. Brg. was SHOON_GOTS! :helmet:

 

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TonyToro
11 hours ago, Andy N. said:

In think it's time to reseal the tiller drive axles. Hopefully it will dry out later in the week so I can put it to good use!

 

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We have to do ours too. Would you by chance still have the part number? I bet everything slid off easily though…lol

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pfrederi
12 hours ago, Andy N. said:

In think it's time to reseal the tiller drive axles. Hopefully it will dry out later in the week so I can put it to good use!

 

 

 

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  Some of those tines are pretty well worn   but replacements are $$$$

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rick
1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

  Some of those tines are pretty well worn   but replacements are $$$$

Ain't that the truth!  I need some tines for mine.

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c-series don

I resealed mine one of mine a few years ago. It was relatively easy, the hardest part was removing the tines. I found that heat and then IMMEDIATELY using it in hard ground with the pins removed worked best. Here’s some pics, I know you guys like pictures! 

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rick

I see the unit has 2 tine shaft seals, does the outer seal go in backwards to help keep debris away from the inner seal?

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Andy N.
3 hours ago, TonyToro said:

We have to do ours too. Would you by chance still have the part number? I bet everything slid off easily though…lol

 

103118

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/103118-tiller-tine-seal-kit-wheel-horse-qty-4/

 

It's a 4 pack because the parts book calls out 2 for each side. I could only get 1 to fit so we'll see how that goes. The replacement seals look like a different design than what I removed, but they did stop the active leaking.

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Andy N.
2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

  Some of those tines are pretty well worn   but replacements are $$$$

That is so true. It's cheaper to buy another tiller. 

 

This tiller still turns this midwest soil just fine though. No rocks! I got it from a buddy from my hometown in upstate NY. As you know lots of rocks in the soil there.

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c-series don
2 hours ago, rick said:

I see the unit has 2 tine shaft seals, does the outer seal go in backwards to help keep debris away from the inner seal?

Honestly it’s been over two years since I had it apart and can’t remember! Heck I can’t even remember where I got the seals and gaskets from! I do remember that I was able to source everything I needed from one place. I have everything painted and ready for assembly except the hood or cover or whatever you call it! That I need to sandblast and paint still. Also looking for the leveling piece that hinges on the back. I can’t seem to find one, suppose I could make one though. I also have the older version of this tiller that doesn’t have end plates or the leveling drag but I think this one would work better. One other thing I’d like to have for both of them is the belt guard that goes on the tiller itself. This I believe would stop the dirt from getting underneath the tractor and occasionally on my neck, face and right ear while doing deep tills !! 

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squonk

Just about every WH tiller I've run across has worn out tines. Whilst a 1962 wizard walk bee hind will have good ones! :confusion-confused:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sparky
1 hour ago, DevonianHorse said:

 

 

Cruised down to my pub shed in style this afternoon! :):wh:

@DevonianHorse  Pub shed? What’s that? 

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c-series don

@DevonianHorse okay sir we are definitely going to need pictures of said pub shed!!! I already want one! 

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Handy Don
6 hours ago, DevonianHorse said:

Cruised down to my pub shed in style this afternoon! :):wh:

Leaves me ta wondrin’...how was the cruise home?

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Lee1977
6 hours ago, squonk said:

Just about every WH tiller I've run across has worn out tines. Whilst a 1962 wizard walk bee hind will have good ones! :confusion-confused:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did that those Wizards have a Tecumseh on them?

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Handy Don

I don’t have specific info on WH tiller tines.

Generally, though, tiller tines are are given some degree of heat treatment hardness. The degree factors hugely in the wear but also in how brittle they are. The type of steel alloy used also affects strength, hardening options, and cost. The most sophisticated tines have varying hardness for different areas of the tine and in some cases extra built up metal on the cutting edge.

 

Lots of hardness gives long wear but at the risk of breaking when hitting a big rock.

Less hardness wears quicker but survives rock hits better.

WH tillers tend to have a lot of oomph behind them and a heavy tractor with lots of inertia assuring that a rock hit will be forceful.

 

So my guess is WH tines were made of a moderately priced and capable grade of steel and are not as hardened as they would be on lower-powered and lighter tillers and so they wear faster.

Edited by Handy Don
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TJ5208

You guys like pics well here's ya some.

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squonk
9 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

Did that those Wizards have a Tecumseh on them?

Good ol Briggs 

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ohiofarmer

I got tired of too many fifty year old front tires not holding aa flat ir. I did buy a stash of tubes for them a year or two ago. Time for action. This wheel was one with a glued on tire with gobs of dried on fix a flat. It was so bad that the tire had to be cut from the rim. I happened to watch a repair blog about a female owned small engine business and she was having a bad day because she made a customer angry when the hardened fix a flat punched a hole in a tire tube she put in.

  I thought " hold my beer and y will show you how to clean a rim".  That old tire sealant is hard as a rock but is still flammable and melts or burns off pretty easily.nI went the extra mile and used solvent and brake cleaner and it was plenty clean for the inside of a wheel. .After inserting a tube I was able to apply evenly a coat of rust converter sealing the rust pits and etching the rest for Rust-Oleum damp metal primer. Simply the best. It was easy to get it applied over the inside and after the fire was back on it was left uninflated to paint the outside edge of the wheel.

  I usually spray my wheels, but rotating it on an axle did  a nice job

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Ed Kennell

Three hours of mowing and sweeping for the 312H.      The three days of rain upset my mowing schedule.     More rain tomorrow.

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8ntruck

Has anybody ever done a spark test on a Wheel Horse tiller tine to get a read on the carbon level in the steel?  Higher carbon = harder/stronger material. 

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