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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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953 nut
9 hours ago, Pullstart said:
20 hours ago, Heatingman said:

@Andy N. Did that e tank remove paint too? Or just rust?

 

And what fluid? Just food preservation grade vinegar?


This thread might help… but WASHING Soda is my go-to with water.

@Andy N., Never add vinegar to the washing soda in the E Tank.  Vinegar is an ACID, low PH and washing soda is a base, high PH and the two will neutralize each other forming a salt which is worthless for removing rust or paint.

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Andy N.
21 hours ago, Heatingman said:

@Andy N. Did that e tank remove paint too? Or just rust?

 

And what fluid? Just food preservation grade vinegar?

 

I just used Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda in the water. I used about 2 cups and it's a 40 gallon tub. It did start to bubble the paint in some areas, but most of what you see where the paint is missing were rusty spots. Below is the link for the washing soda. I'll probably experiment some next time with amount of soda added and length of the soak.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029XNTEU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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WHGuy413

I have only ever used Armon Hammer washing soda in my e tanks. It works really really well. I’ve used old chunks of rebar as my sacrificial pieces in there. The more you put the better. The E tank will take off paint but only if there is rust under it. 

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ineedanother
24 minutes ago, WHGuy413 said:

The more you put the better. 

 

I respectfully disagree, but that's one of the things I like about this site. I will contend that you just need enough washing soda (Na2CO3) available for the molecular exchange on the surface of your soaking iron relative to the amount of energy you are providing, but I'm not a chemist. :eusa-think:

 

I use about a half cup in 25 gallons or so, but I don't measure it.

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WHGuy413
Just now, ineedanother said:

 

I respectfully disagree, but that's one of the things I like about this site. I will contend that you just need enough washing soda (Na2CO3) available for the molecular exchange on the surface of your soaking iron relative to the amount of energy you are providing, but I'm not a chemist. :eusa-think:

 

I use about a half cup in 25 gallons or so, but I don't measure it.

I was referring to the sacrificial rods. The more of those this better in my opinion. I have tried with only 1 and progressed to more. In a 55 gallon plastic drum I had 5 and it worked amazing. The washing soda on the other hand you don’t need much!

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ineedanother
6 minutes ago, WHGuy413 said:

I was referring to the sacrificial rods. The more of those this better in my opinion. I have tried with only 1 and progressed to more. In a 55 gallon plastic drum I had 5 and it worked amazing. The washing soda on the other hand you don’t need much!

Yep. Sorry I didn't pick up on that. You're absolutely right. I have 4 anodes in my tank right now and it works pretty well but they're all vertical which is limiting as far as exposure to current is concerned. 

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Heatingman

Yesterday I got the plow partially reassembled and all motion points lubed. Works as @peter lena says like a rifle bolt. Im waiting for the new wear bar before I go the rest of the way. Also got the motor and wiring removed from the B80. Getting close. 
 

 

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johnnymag3
6 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

all motion points lubed

Oil it......Don't spoil it !!!! 

 

:greetings-clappingyellow:

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peter lena

@Heatingman  those 7" wheels give me the added height  i wanted on the grass, stops the debris and build up , easy to do and helps out , going to install 2 more sets on other decks .  on that blade detailing , found  that elevated  build up / detailing  is the best access and  function to attachments. you are sitting there looking at every stage , why not snug up a sloppy lever area ?  changed my lower blade swing rod , to heim joints and threaded rod , years ago , if you tighten up the lever rod squeeze linkage , with small channel locks ,/ lubricate , its like instant response , glad you did the detailing , make it smooth , pete     

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peter lena

@Heatingman  https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2fOGoK1EK&id=0274331997F623FCC248DD37B3C248257D56AF6F&thid=OIP._OGoK1EKxSPUffhL0_1Q3 , used this type of heim joint , r/h female  heim with stud for the threaded rod plow swing rod , there is a hole on bottom of plow , steering quadrant , that lets you bolt this in place , screw in your threaded rod . with washer / nut , and duplicate it on the other lever end. using it for years , no problems / failures . if I  tell you something I  use , have been verifying its function , without problems. make it easier , go grease , pete   

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peter lena

@Heatingman   used 1/2 "  r/h threaded  rod /  joint  , to clarify , pete

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CRAZYFROG
On 8/25/2022 at 4:54 AM, ebinmaine said:

 

Got any pics of that project?

 

Haven't had time to do anything really other than stripping it down.

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Heatingman

Almost got the steering wheel off. 3/4 the way there. What a pain.

 

As bad as any blower shaft or pump impeller Ive dealt with of similar size.

 

Ive read on here that at times it’s impossible. Maybe that’s true some times.

 

Here is my method. 
 

Soak the parts with PB or other penetrating oil.

 

Drive the roll pin out - larger pin then it looks - so - roughly the same outside diameter as the access hole in the wheel cover opening.

 

then grab your steering wheel puller, set it up, apply tension, then hit the puller screw like its a nail. Add more screw tension, then hit it again, rinse and repeat.

 

Every whack of the hammer, you can get just a little more screw turning.


If needed use a pipe wrench to hold back on the bridge of the puller when tightening the screw.

 

Got about a 1/4 inch or so left. Been at it about 1.5 hours. Home stretch.

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Heatingman

Got it.

 

5F2317FC-9385-4787-A39B-50E7BB96FED1.jpeg

A598CCAB-2E33-459F-A6D5-25DC51C12748.jpeg

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mhlmeader

Added a stack to Red Dragon 2: Return of Red Dragon.....spacer.png

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Heatingman
2 minutes ago, mhlmeader said:

Added a stack to Red Dragon 2: Return of Red Dragon.....spacer.png

Looks sharp. 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Heatingman said:

steering wheel off

:text-goodpost:

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Heatingman said:

Drive the roll pin out - larger pin then it looks - so - roughly the same outside diameter as the access hole in the wheel cover opening

What size driver you using?

I need to get a GOOD one. 

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Heatingman
10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

What size driver you using?

I need to get a GOOD one. 

1/4”

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ebinmaine
42 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

1/4”

Ordered a USA made set. Thanks. 

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Pullstart

Picked up a few spares this weekend…

 

 

2D42E996-FC2E-4EFF-A40A-6A9CE9767093.jpeg

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sjoemie himself
9 hours ago, mhlmeader said:

stack spacer.png

 

Would you share with us where you got that muffler? This looks like the perfect size for my Murray to IH project.

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mhlmeader
39 minutes ago, sjoemie himself said:

 

Would you share with us where you got that muffler? This looks like the perfect size for my Murray to IH project.

I got it from Family Farm and Home store, but looks like you can get it from Tractor Supply aswell, this one is stamped Stanely muffler and is approximately 3" in diameter. 

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953 nut
11 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Picked up a few spares this weekend…

 

 

2D42E996-FC2E-4EFF-A40A-6A9CE9767093.jpeg

Kevin, that clutch disk isn't goin to work well the way you have it mounted there.        :scared-eek:

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Pullstart
7 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Kevin, that clutch disk isn't goin to work well the way you have it mounted there.        :scared-eek:


I had to make it easy to carry one handed :rolleyes:

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