What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

[squonk 41,104]

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 

@phil bowling and his buddy Scott pointed out to me that the lines of the hood and the fender do flow from the front.  Not that the rear does it any favors, but from the front they almost nailed it 

Y'all don't like Fat bottomed tractors? 

[Pullstart 62,851]

2 hours ago, squonk said:

Y'all don't like Fat bottomed tractors? 

Yeah, but that’s not the bottom!

 

 

[Bill Winn 156]

Working on a few general maintenance items in preparation for the new PTO bell and clutch when it arrives. My PTO brake pad was all worn down so I cut a piece of of an old brake pad from my wife's Camry and riveted it on.

 

Bill

[953 nut 55,223]

22 hours ago, Pullstart said:

666 pages of what we did to our Wheel Horses!  Oooooooooh!  

     666 Pages is true but as frequently as this train becomes derailed  probably only 444 or so are about what we did on Wheel Horses.        

[peter lena 8,625]

@Pullstart  personally think  , being at dad duty , is the best , you never forget that time  , good for you ! pete

[Pullstart 62,851]

33 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

brake pad from my wife's Camry

Now what’s SHE gonna do!?!?  

 

18 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Pullstart  personally think  , being at dad duty , is the best , you never forget that time  , good for you ! pete

I’m lucky enough that my sister in laws trust me with their children.  Our youngest is nearing 13 and our oldest is on her own working full time 

[Heatingman 971]

52 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

Working on a few general maintenance items in preparation for the new PTO bell and clutch when it arrives. My PTO brake pad was all worn down so I cut a piece of of an old brake pad from my wife's Camry and riveted it on.

 

Bill

Looks like plenty of brake pad left.

 

maybe just smooth it out with a belt or disk sander.

 

[Heatingman 971]

Painted the deck when I got home from work. 

[ebinmaine 67,484]

53 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

My PTO brake pad was all worn down so I cut a piece of of an old brake pad from my wife's Camry and riveted it on

Hey nice work there Bill!!

 

 

19 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Now what’s SHE gonna do!?!?  

Who cares??!!??

The tractor is headed to working better.  

 

 

41 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

     666 Pages is true but as frequently as this train becomes derailed  probably only 444 or so are about what we did on Wheel Horses.        

Likely more in the range of 222..... 

[Bill Winn 156]

20 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Now what’s SHE gonna do!?!?  

 

I’m lucky enough that my sister in laws trust me with their children.  Our youngest is nearing 13 and our oldest is on her own working full time 

LOL yep luckily they were the old set for the front. I per-emptively  replace front and rears before state inspection this year because last year the garage I took it too hinted that they almost gigged me for the brakes. Cheaper by far to do them myself and I always keep stuff like used brake pads just in case. This time it paid off.

[Bill Winn 156]

6 minutes ago, Heatingman said:

Painted the deck when I got home from work. 

When can I drop mine off?

 

 

 

 

[Bill Winn 156]

Hello RSC, I am tidying up the C-175 Auto at the moment as there are a good many repairs adjustments that I've let stack up and one of the issues I am trying to resolve is a lack of upward lift travel for the clevis hitch in the back. I have replace the cable, clevis, and tube and still had less lift than i felt like I should have.

 

In the attached diagram the lift cable for the rear hitch is shown fitting in the bottom hole on the LIFT LEVER. The trunnion on my lift cable will not fit that hole. It fits in the next one up. Could that be the issue? Should I drill it out?

 

Also should my T-Bar bottom out against the steering shaft (as it currently does).

 

I know that's a lot for one post but I am in a writing mood I guess.

 

Thankful for any help,

Bill

[Heatingman 971]

35 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

 

Whenever you want. Probably wont get to it anytime soon. 
 

Still have to do the actual tractor once I put the plow and the mower deck back together.

 

Oh and I painted the plow a couple weeks ago. Well twice actually. The first choice of paint did not work so good. Never dried. (Ace Rust stop) I think was too old and went bad. 

 

 

[Heatingman 971]

44 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

LOL yep luckily they were the old set for the front. I per-emptively  replace front and rears before state inspection this year because last year the garage I took it too hinted that they almost gigged me for the brakes. Cheaper by far to do them myself and I always keep stuff like used brake pads just in case. This time it paid off.

what a great idea! I just ordered a new pto brake.

 

Recently did the brakes on my truck, but have a lifetime warranty on the pads and rotors, so I have to surrender the old ones. Wonder if they would notice 1/2 a pad cut off altogether.

[Heatingman 971]

18 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

Hello RSC, I am tidying up the C-175 Auto at the moment as there are a good many repairs adjustments that I've let stack up and one of the issues I am trying to resolve is a lack of upward lift travel for the clevis hitch in the back. I have replace the cable, clevis, and tube and still had less lift than i felt like I should have.

 

In the attached diagram the lift cable for the rear hitch is shown fitting in the bottom hole on the LIFT LEVER. The trunnion on my lift cable will not fit that hole. It fits in the next one up. Could that be the issue? Should I drill it out?

 

Also should my T-Bar bottom out against the steering shaft (as it currently does).

 

I know that's a lot for one post but I am in a writing mood I guess.

 

Thankful for any help,

Bill

its shown to fit just above the bottom hole. Bottom hole labeled for snow blade linkage.

[Bill Winn 156]

1 hour ago, Heatingman said:

its shown to fit just above the bottom hole. Bottom hole labeled for snow blade linkage.

I am referring to the bar in the diagram labeled 19. The bottom hole that shows it’s for the rear cable trunnion is too small for my cable’s trunnion.

[Heatingman 971]

49 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

I am referring to the bar in the diagram labeled 19. The bottom hole that shows it’s for the rear cable trunnion is too small for my cable’s trunnion.

I see it now. Yes if you use that lower hole, it should allow for more lift.

[peter lena 8,625]

@Bill Winn, noting that lift linkage set up , did you aerosol lubricant the rust run out ? make sure every movement point is lubricated , then what I do is , use aerosol  RED SPRAY GREASE , that linkage will work with total ease, also noting your pto brake  pad save , since going over to the lucas grease upgrade in the pto , needle bearing , I  have removed my break pads , on my 3 horses . the effortless / smooth spin on that cone , makes the pad a  non issue . no noise or functional interference , just my own experience. glad you are gaining on your set up . don,t forget to spray into your lift lever push pin down into the tube , watch the rust run out , stay greasy , pete

[CountryRock 199]

Upgraded my 246H from reflectors to led tail lights, but I discovered a broken lift point on the mower deck.  I'll be welding that up later today.

[Bill Winn 156]

20 hours ago, Heatingman said:

Okay, update on the lift capacity. I took apart the home made mess that the PO had cobble together underneath the tractor for the lift linkage and fabbed a trunnion for the lift cable with a 1/4" pin. I decided to hunt around online after supper and discovered this diagram.

 

Now this will make sense to those of you suggesting I not drill out the bottom hole (in part 19 of the original diagram I posted) but use a different sized pin. On my tractor lift cable assembly parts 4 and 19 had been swapped by the POe swapped. In short the lift cable had been installed backward and a trunnion with a 3/8" pin was installed so naturally it would not fit in the bottom hole of the lift linkage from the diagram I posted earlier. This is just the nature of the beast when you buy preowned equipment. Managing expectations and treating it like a game or a puzzle to solve makes it less frustrating. This community is like having access to cheat codes. LOL

 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 12,217]

50 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

swapped by the POe swapped

 

50 minutes ago, Bill Winn said:

like having access to cheat codes

Go ahead and swap it back. The main reason, I've concluded, for having the clevis at the "front" is that there are tight clearances there between the rockshaft arm and the frame and the clevis fits nicely. At the "rear" there is more room so a trunnion works.

Edited August 24, 2022 by Handy Don

[Bill Winn 156]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

 

Go ahead and swap it back. The main reason, I've concluded, for having the clevis at the "front" is that there are tight clearances there between the rockshaft arm and the frame and the clevis fits nicely. At the "rear" there is more room so a trunnion works.

Roger that. Task complete and I am happy to report that after swapping the cable (major pain in the butt) and fiddling with the other adjustments I now have 3 1/2" of upward travel on the clevis hitch (up from 1 3/4").

 

Oh and Pete I sprayed Red Tacky Grease on everthing... including my shirt. (gotta watch which way the can is aimed).

 

Thanks everyone for you advice.

Bill

Edited August 24, 2022 by Bill Winn

[CountryRock 199]

Lift point on the 246H deck is good as new after a few passes with some 6011.

[Bill Winn 156]

3 minutes ago, CountryRock said:

Lift point on the 246H deck is good as new after a few passes with some 6011.

 

Looks nice. It sure feels great to complete a repair and have things functioning correctly again. 

[CRAZYFROG 302]

Cleaned up a couple today. Also working on the rj58 crazy horse project that is now fully stripped down for sanding and paint.