johnnymag3 2,520 #16101 Posted June 20, 2022 (edited) Spent the afternoon replacing the wiring on the B-80 AkA FlowahPowah. She was having bad connection issues and rather then case what wire was doing it I figured I'd update all of them. Starts and runs great now. Get those wires off the steering shaft ol' boy..... Looks nice and purty now !!! Edited June 20, 2022 by johnnymag3 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #16102 Posted June 20, 2022 14 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: Spent the afternoon replacing the wiring on the B-80 AkA FlowahPowah. She was having bad connection issues and rather then case what wire was doing it I figured I'd update all of them. Starts and runs great now. Get those wires off the steering shaft ol' boy..... Looks nice and purty now !!! I am taking my B-80 to the Big Show this year. It's my general all around go to tractor and she deserves a run around the Wheel Horse Collectors Club show grounds. 8 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,486 #16103 Posted June 20, 2022 9 hours ago, OldWorkHorse said: @johnnymag3 Good eye 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,486 #16104 Posted June 20, 2022 2 minutes ago, Lane Ranger said: I like those vendors stickers on the belt guard there. Or magnets? You find that those go down the road okay? I've been thinking of doing something along a line with the dash plaques from Owls Head and I was concerned they would fly off... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldWorkHorse 3,045 #16105 Posted June 20, 2022 20 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said: Get those wires off the steering shaft ol' boy..... Looks nice and purty now !!! Hah yes they were tucked behind it before. When I re connected them I tucked them all in front. However I zip tied them and crammed them in there for the photo shoot as my parents were coming over. It's been since corrected but photo wasn't updated. Thanks for the keen eye! I somehow almost didn't even notice your comment not sure how 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldWorkHorse 3,045 #16106 Posted June 20, 2022 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: @johnnymag3 Good eye No one was supposed to notice 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,104 #16107 Posted June 20, 2022 42 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I like those vendors stickers on the belt guard there. Or magnets? You find that those go down the road okay? I've been thinking of doing something along a line with the dash plaques from Owls Head and I was concerned they would fly off... Take em off whilst travelling. Stick em on when you get there! ( I should have copyrighted the Wheel Horse Makes it Kohler Shakes It years ago!) 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16108 Posted June 20, 2022 Yesterday: Mulched the wife's rose garden before it got hot out. Sharpened the blades on both decks, then got some mowing done. Unfortunately, the GT-1848 decided to stop running so I had to tow it back in with the 312-A. Finished up with the 312-A, then did some weedwacking. I'll probably post some questions about the Honda engine's misbehavior, but I haven't done any troubleshooting yet. May be another case of failed fuel pump (I have aftermarket electric pumps on both the 312-A and the 416-8, and they work great), but there seems to be at least some gas moving through the filter. Might be a carb teardown/clean, but it dies when I increase the throttle. It's been running a bit rough at lower throttle levels. Haven't done anything to the "new" B-100 yet, in the background to the right. 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,486 #16109 Posted June 20, 2022 5 minutes ago, davem1111 said: carb teardown/clean, but it dies when I increase the throttle. It's been running a bit rough at lower throttle levels I was told two or three decades ago that you have to do ALL the maintenance before you can do ANY of the troubleshooting. I agree that you need to do a carb rebuild and I would add to that, replace every inch of fuel line and a new fuel filter. Definitely a possibility that your fuel lines or gunk in the tank is sending stuff into the carburetor. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16110 Posted June 20, 2022 38 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I was told two or three decades ago that you have to do ALL the maintenance before you can do ANY of the troubleshooting. I agree that you need to do a carb rebuild and I would add to that, replace every inch of fuel line and a new fuel filter. Definitely a possibility that your fuel lines or gunk in the tank is sending stuff into the carburetor. Great advice. However, I didn't mention that while I had the seat, fender and side guard off to replace the ruined drive belt idler and belt, I had found that the fuel cut-off (screw-type) valve didn't work anymore, so I replaced it with a used one that worked because I didn't have another new one on hand, and replaced the whole fuel line up to the filter on the engine side. (I had the foresight to buy a long spool of good fuel line a while back). I had already replaced the filter between the engine and battery area, and the shorter line between that and the fuel pump, right after I got the tractor. I was wondering about the fact that after the fuel line comes through the body near the steering column, it has to travel uphill to the filter and pump, so the pump is sucking gas upward, and the filter never seems to have more than 3/8" - 1/2" of fuel in it even when running. Should this be arranged so the fuel line comes through and goes up, then down through the filter? It would seem odd because it ran fine with this same arrangement before. I also know it's been recommended to put a filter back near the tank and cut-off valve and then another up near the engine, which I'm not opposed to. But I suppose the first thing I should do is confirm that I get a good solid gravity flow of fuel out of the tank when the valve is fully open. I also noticed a mention of an air vent in the fuel cap... this cap is not in great shape and such a vent could be plugged up. I should also mention that this Honda GX630 engine seems to require 2 additional on/off toggle switches on the dash (at least, the way they wired it) - who ever replaced the engine installed these but didn't label them. I've been looking for a wiring diagram for this engine but haven't found anything yet that mentions these. Engine won't shut off when you turn off the key, have to toggle at least one of these off to kill the engine, and at least at one point it didn't seem to run or run right with one on and one off - I've been filcking them both on and off every time. But again, it had been running fine (if a bit rough at lower throttle, but fine at full throttle) before the recent work. Seat switch and clutch/brake switch have been disabled by someone previously, so the engine can start and PTO can be engaged while standing next to the tractor, which I know is a safety issue, but also that some faulty wiring could be causing issues. My guess at this poing is poor fuel flow and/or carb. Going on another trip later this week so I may not have much time to mess with it until the first weekend of July... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,486 #16111 Posted June 20, 2022 3 hours ago, davem1111 said: Great advice. However, I didn't mention that while I had the seat, fender and side guard off to replace the ruined drive belt idler and belt, I had found that the fuel cut-off (screw-type) valve didn't work anymore, so I replaced it with a used one that worked because I didn't have another new one on hand, and replaced the whole fuel line up to the filter on the engine side. (I had the foresight to buy a long spool of good fuel line a while back). I had already replaced the filter between the engine and battery area, and the shorter line between that and the fuel pump, right after I got the tractor. I was wondering about the fact that after the fuel line comes through the body near the steering column, it has to travel uphill to the filter and pump, so the pump is sucking gas upward, and the filter never seems to have more than 3/8" - 1/2" of fuel in it even when running. Should this be arranged so the fuel line comes through and goes up, then down through the filter? It would seem odd because it ran fine with this same arrangement before. I also know it's been recommended to put a filter back near the tank and cut-off valve and then another up near the engine, which I'm not opposed to. But I suppose the first thing I should do is confirm that I get a good solid gravity flow of fuel out of the tank when the valve is fully open. I also noticed a mention of an air vent in the fuel cap... this cap is not in great shape and such a vent could be plugged up. I should also mention that this Honda GX630 engine seems to require 2 additional on/off toggle switches on the dash (at least, the way they wired it) - who ever replaced the engine installed these but didn't label them. I've been looking for a wiring diagram for this engine but haven't found anything yet that mentions these. Engine won't shut off when you turn off the key, have to toggle at least one of these off to kill the engine, and at least at one point it didn't seem to run or run right with one on and one off - I've been filcking them both on and off every time. But again, it had been running fine (if a bit rough at lower throttle, but fine at full throttle) before the recent work. Seat switch and clutch/brake switch have been disabled by someone previously, so the engine can start and PTO can be engaged while standing next to the tractor, which I know is a safety issue, but also that some faulty wiring could be causing issues. My guess at this poing is poor fuel flow and/or carb. Going on another trip later this week so I may not have much time to mess with it until the first weekend of July... If you haven't already done so it would be a great idea to start a separate thread on this tractor so the work you do doesn't get lost in this giant thread quite so easily. I would have near zero concern about the actual level of the fuel in the fuel filter itself as long as gas is flowing through it freely and happily. I'm not familiar with the fuel filter or fuel pump setup on those engines. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be disassembled and cleaned out like it can on an old Kohler engine? I think you'll find that once you assure good flow from the tank, clean gas going forward, and rebuild the carb... That may eliminate whatever issues you're having. As to the electrical wiring... Perhaps there is a dealer Network that could help with how that thing SHOULD HAVE been wired? My own inclination would be to make a very carefully drawn out schematic diagram of the existing circuits as they are in the tractor right now. I don't have much of any concern for safety switches because Trina and I are the only two that drive our tractors except on very rare and supervised conditions. No inexperienced drivers and no children are EVER around them. That said, when I got my 1975 Automatic I left the safety switches in place because I'm not used to driving that tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldWorkHorse 3,045 #16112 Posted June 20, 2022 Finished relocating my wire harness and for added security I made a steering shaft shield so if anything ever comes loose there should be no moving parts near any wires on the B80. 4 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,625 #16113 Posted June 20, 2022 @OldWorkHorse https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=VdsdDNVP&id=969647187F2BA06BA4F107FBE589D7FA68797C0C&thid=OIP.VdsdDNVP- , used these stick on ty wrap mounts in a a lot of spots , just an idea. pete 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,625 #16114 Posted June 20, 2022 @ebinmaine , always re doing something , you can either screw mount them , or on clean paint that peel and stick is also solid . soon as I see a tight wire issue usually do a reroute . pete 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,968 #16115 Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) On 6/20/2022 at 6:59 AM, ebinmaine said: I like those vendors stickers on the belt guard there. Or magnets? You find that those go down the road okay? I've been thinking of doing something along a line with the dash plaques from Owls Head and I was concerned they would fly off... magnets. They stay on 98% of the time! Edited June 22, 2022 by Lane Ranger 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,275 #16116 Posted June 22, 2022 Today, I pulled a nice big trailer with my C175. being hydro, It had no problem pulling this trailer full of old iron. the filled trailer weighed 4600lbs. Only backing up in the gravel did cause some traction issues. 15 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16117 Posted June 22, 2022 Started putting the transaxle back on my 416-8 (had water in it so I took it off to drain and clean it, since I couldn't get the drain plug to budge). Used the "make a stud by grinding the head off a bolt" method to align it with the frame that I've seen mentioned here - that worked really well. Got it snugged up then realized I'd have to loosen it again to re-attach the hi-lo shifter . Will do some more repainting later on the rest. Going away for a few days so I'll finish this next week. Hoping to sell this tractor but should probably put a deck on it. That will entail repairing one of the other decks (42" or 48") and they both need parts I don't have... 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16118 Posted June 22, 2022 1 hour ago, davem1111 said: Started putting the transaxle back on my 416-8 (had water in it so I took it off to drain and clean it, since I couldn't get the drain plug to budge). Used the "make a stud by grinding the head off a bolt" method to align it with the frame that I've seen mentioned here - that worked really well. Got it snugged up then realized I'd have to loosen it again to re-attach the hi-lo shifter . Will do some more repainting later on the rest. Going away for a few days so I'll finish this next week. Hoping to sell this tractor but should probably put a deck on it. That will entail repairing one of the other decks (42" or 48") and they both need parts I don't have... Okay, does anyone know which manual shows how to re-assemble all the brackets, springs, etc. for the 8-speed Uni-Drive? I didn't think I'd have this apart as long as I have, and should have taken pictures. I've been looking through all the manuals available here and most of them are either high level owner's manuals or the IPL parts lists with exploded views but no assembled views. The manuals specific to servicing this trans show you how to rebuild it but not how to install it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #16119 Posted June 23, 2022 14 minutes ago, davem1111 said: The manuals specific to servicing this trans show you how to rebuild it but not how to install it. Me thinks the most help you are going to get is looking at pictures such as this... Don 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16120 Posted June 23, 2022 57 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Me thinks the most help you are going to get is looking at pictures such as this... Don Thanks Don! There should be a spring on the drive idler also, but I am having trouble finding where it goes. And I do have 2 springs in the parts pile. Looks like the smaller of the 2 should go over there. Have any pics of that? (You can PM me if you want, so we don't clutter up this thread...) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 608 #16121 Posted June 25, 2022 (edited) Picked up this nice 60" deck at the big show! It needs some love with belts and bushings but it'll go great on the 520-8. Lots of great people, vendors, and equipment at the show and even more stuff I wish I could've brought home with me lol Edited June 25, 2022 by Desko 8 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 2,056 #16122 Posted June 25, 2022 Drove around the Show for a few hours this morning. After getting home... Old steering shaft: New steering shaft, courtesy of @RJ854 Oops, got the wrong tie rods: Even with the old worn out tie rods the steering is tons better, because most of the play was in the fan gear. Still going to get the right ones. 5 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monstrosity 1,128 #16123 Posted June 25, 2022 Got it back together and needed to test the the hydraulics cleaned the wiring up still torn between red or gray for the engine dont know yet. I was going with gray but now im leaning towards red..... new lights are coming for the hood need to wire that curcuit still wheels need paint and rear fender pan is being painted tonight. 5 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #16124 Posted June 27, 2022 (edited) Replaced center spindle bearings on the 1969 re-purposed deck, put back on the No Name 12 auto & gave it a test mow, hums like new! Deck will be torn down & painted this winter. Brought in the C-120 in prep for a new fuel pump then opened up the new to me 520 H to clean her out, dirty ol' girl... This should look familiar to you 520 guys Edited June 27, 2022 by Blasterdad 8 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,305 #16125 Posted June 27, 2022 4 hours ago, Blasterdad said: Brought in the C-120 in prep for a new fuel pump then opened up the new to me 520 H to clean her out, dirty ol' girl... This should loo familiar to you 520 guys I pull my 520s apart every year to clean and then lubricate all the moving parts. You will find plenty of debris under the gas tank causing rust if it gets wet. Your electrical issues are 10% Wheel Horse and 90% caused by someone that should buy a disposable tractor. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
