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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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kpinnc
6 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Electrolysis is a great way to remove rust and old paint. To keep it “non-toxic” be sure to only put carbon steel parts in it. Crime parts can create chronic acid, etc

 

Best to do the process outdoors regardless. You are correct absolutely never any steel except carbon, but even then the byproduct of the process is hydrogen gas. Remember the Hindenburg? Crazy flammable stuff! Be sure to have proper ventilation.

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Ed Kennell
9 hours ago, MikMacMike said:

Ill be finished building it by noon tomorrow.

 

                      :banana-gotpics::wwp:

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Gregor
9 hours ago, MikMacMike said:

and its non toxic too.

I have done what you are doing on a smaller scale. 10 gal plastic tub. You may want to re-think that non toxic part. I used Arm & Hammer Washing Soda.

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19richie66

Yeah but you know it’s purty :handgestures-thumbupright:

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lynnmor
52 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

 

20211214_170254.jpg.36b99f0b6d84129ca8b7fe99f89c469a.jpg

 

See that notch in the side of the intake straight above the S on the fender?  That comes from the exhaust heat shield wearing into it.  Grind a bit of clearance in the shield so it can't hit.  Check other possible interference as well.

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AMC RULES

Ty buddy, will do.  :greetings-wavingyellow:

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EB-80/8inPA
22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Thought it said "mowed my skiff"..

Mow, mow, mow your boat…

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AMC RULES

Resealed them two intake halfs tonight.

20211214_192910.jpg.834323e792ce97695a02ee89b4b95f64.jpg

 

20211214_194640.jpg.45f2258b8dba970a403d150dd1987d3e.jpg

 

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20211214_201720.jpg.18947b73313507e3af83ed21dfb6cab4.jpg

 

20211214_201745.jpg.0dc1107ba04ee70bd7f42db6e8ff46ba.jpg

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lynnmor
40 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Resealed them two intake halfs tonight.

 

20211214_194640.jpg.45f2258b8dba970a403d150dd1987d3e.jpg

 

 

The Yamabond is good stuff, I guess that you will be bolting thru where the rivets were?

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kpinnc

Sealing the intake manifold is probably the best thing you can do to stop surging RPMs and negate the need to run with the choke on. 

 

... Obviously you already knew that. I was just typing out loud. :rolleyes:

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

Sealing the intake manifold is probably the best thing you can do to stop surging RPMs and negate the need to run with the choke on

That or change carb jets... whatever is easier...

 

:laughing-rolling:

 

Don

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AMC RULES

Could drill through the rivets and tap for screws but I'm thinking a mechanical fastener may not be necessary.

We'll see what it looks like after it comes out of the clamps tomorrow.

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, AMC RULES said:

Could drill through the rivets

Why not put more rivets? :confusion-confused:

 

Don

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Handy Don
37 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Could drill through the rivets and tap for screws but I'm thinking a mechanical fastener may not be necessary.

We'll see what it looks like after it comes out of the clamps tomorrow.

My only thought would be the weight of the carb on top of the manifold as the tractor jounces around.

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AMC RULES

Having taken one apart, I think they're overkill.

But, like I said, we will see.

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lynnmor
6 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Could drill through the rivets and tap for screws but I'm thinking a mechanical fastener may not be necessary.

We'll see what it looks like after it comes out of the clamps tomorrow.

 

There is no way that I would release the clamping without the two halves bolted together.  If the halves spring open even a little, the sealant will no longer work.

I drill thru both halves and use stainless steel screws, washers and locknuts.  Tapping the aluminum may be OK, but that cast metal isn't as strong as bolting thru.

So everyone knows, those "rivets" are simply protrusions from the one half, not a separate fastener.

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MikMacMike
On 12/13/2021 at 11:19 PM, MikMacMike said:

Wew...frustrated over sore back and spending mony on wire wheels that cost us 20 plus dollars. Heres a update on a process I did in small ways in the past and was so impressed by the end result I just had to share. Its an electrolisis setup that will eliminate oll that arm power we put into removing rust but with far less base material being removed.....neever mind the costs of all the **** we need to buy that far still way over priced....55 gal plastic drum, 4 36 inch rebar, 1 box of 20 mule team soda, a few feet of copper wire and voala you have the bar nun best rust remover ever that does its job while your using yer arm power on other ****. Dam what a god send and its non toxic too. Ill be finished building it by noon tomorrow.

 

ok here are some pics of it, the last pic you can see Im free to do other work instead of expelling my energy hehehe

Screenshot from 2021-12-15 09-13-36.png

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Raposo
On 12/13/2021 at 11:32 AM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Not 'potty trained' yet?  They still need 'pads' under them?:ychain:

You can never be too sure! Haha 

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Raposo

Started tearing down my 657....this will be getting an 8 horse magnum and will be an “857” 

415520B4-66A0-416E-B19C-F3A4357F8C90.jpeg

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MikMacMike
On 12/13/2021 at 9:13 PM, BeninCT said:

Moved my skiff to the side yard.  Tows this thing all day- no prob at all.

 

 

38B1F530-D719-4D1F-981C-BC4FA1C235D9.jpeg

Id love to see some pics of how you built the fork lift for the wheel Horse, dang handy dandy

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MikMacMike
On 12/14/2021 at 8:43 AM, Gregor said:

I have done what you are doing on a smaller scale. 10 gal plastic tub. You may want to re-think that non toxic part. I used Arm & Hammer Washing Soda.

I guess there may be fumes from paint removal, hard to say really, but as long as you use sodium bicarbate...aka arm n hammer or Borax basically the same thing the only real gases youll get are Hydrogen and oxigen. While operating it needs to be well ventalated because of the hydrogen gasses or you could have an explosion if its allowed to pool. The next one will be even larger, so I can do full on engine blocks and larger parts.

Edited by MikMacMike
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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, MikMacMike said:

Id love to see some pics of how you built the fork lift for the wheel Horse, dang handy dandy

There's a build thread on here somewhere Mike...

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Raposo said:

Started tearing down my 657....this will be getting an 8 horse magnum and will be an “857” 

 

 

@Sparky has an old square hood with a Magnum 8 horse. Good little tractor. You'll like that.

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Jeff-C175
1 hour ago, MikMacMike said:

sodium bicarbate...aka arm n hammer or Borax basically the same thing

 

Well... to be clear, Washing soda is sodium carbonate.  Baking soda is sodium BIcarbonate.  Borax is Sodium tetraborate.  

 

Washing soda is preferred.

 

I've used baking soda when I didn't have washing soda and didn't see a difference.

 

Not sure about the borax though, I would research that before I tried it.

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BeninCT
3 hours ago, MikMacMike said:

Id love to see some pics of how you built the fork lift for the wheel Horse, dang handy dandy

Take a look here. Probably a few things I do a little differently but not much it works very well I run all over the yard with a couple different trailers I have and put firewood up on my back porch with it. Weakest link is the Unistrut by I think it strikes the perfect strength to wait balance. Any more weight and the front end couldn’t handle it.   
 

 

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