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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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Ifixoldjunk
1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

Removed the 42SD from the 417A and gave it the PETE treatment.

Out in the sun all this week to soak in.

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Do you just coat it in used motor oil? I’ve got to get my decks winterized soon.

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Ed Kennell
10 minutes ago, Ifixoldjunk said:

Do you just coat it in used motor oil?

YES, and gear oil and outboard lower unit if I have it.  

Edited by Ed Kennell
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kpinnc

I built my father in law a hitch so he can pull a trailer, and I'm gonna set up his leaf vac to work with it too. 

 

Just realized I missed a brace on the bottom. Guess I'll add it tomorrow. At least mine catches the slot hitch mount as well.

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Edited by kpinnc
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Moonshine*Connoisseur

I truly like this design.

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kpinnc
44 minutes ago, Moonshine*Connoisseur said:

I truly like this design.

 

I can't take credit- I just took what others have built and added the supports in the bottom. They probably are not needed, but I add support to the slot on every hitch I've built. 

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Bill D
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

I built my father in law a hitch so he can pull a trailer, and I'm gonna set up his leaf vac to work with it too. 

 

Just realized I missed a brace on the bottom. Guess I'll add it tomorrow. At least mine catches the slot hitch mount as well.

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Very nice.  Here's my version.  I designed it to allow use of the factory hitch as well.

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Edited by Bill D
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kpinnc
14 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Very nice.  Here's my version.  I designed it to allow use of the factory hitch as well.

 

Nice!

 

Starting to think you and I might be distant relatives- which is awful for you! :lol:

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JoeM
On 9/24/2021 at 8:37 PM, ZXT said:

Could you possibly temporarily weld something like a 6' stick of square tubing to the deck at the affected area, mount it on the tractor and then use the tubing to "tweak" it back into shape? Might be better ideas out there, but that's my uneducated suggestion.

Yes, took the idea and tweaked it. Used the FEL to hold it down and a large adjustable wrench with pipe extension handle and viola! Not to toooo bad!

 

Going to add a little reinforcement, plus I have a good used top plate. New bearings on the way might be done this week. Other then paint. 

 

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JoeM
3 hours ago, Bill D said:

Very nice.  Here's my version.  I designed it to allow use of the factory hitch as well.

 

And it looks like you could still have a snow plow bracket under that hitch as well too!

All good work! :handgestures-thumbup:

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Bill D
12 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Nice!

 

Starting to think you and I might be distant relatives- which is awful for you! :lol:

If we ever meet, you might think differently:lol:

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Maxwell-8

did some cleaning up and regreasing of some front mowing pulley's.

some compound got the paint to shine again.

 

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peter lena

@Ifixoldjunk  this is what I do and use , lubriplate chain and cable spray . bombproof , under a deck , do a two step soaking , first with lighter green can to soak in , later  over coat it with the extra heavy open gear spray , let it dry out in the sun , it will stain the metal black with lubricant . do mine each year , no rot or scaling . have deck thoroughly cleaned out first, then apply , all my decks have this , pete 

 

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Lee1977
18 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

I can't take credit- I just took what others have built and added the supports in the bottom. They probably are not needed, but I add support to the slot on every hitch I've built. 

I have two with braces to the hitch that will also allow the clevis hitch if it's modified.

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The 312-8 with the raised gastank and fender is braced on the top of the transmission.

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Oldskool
9 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

The 312-8 with the raised gastank and fender is braced on the top of the transmission.

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@ebinmaine

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D_Mac

Well nothing as exciting as fabricating a new hitch, but I did change the drive belt on the 875 that recently had an engine swap. Ran into a little issue with the ground wire but @squonkwas able to talk me through it. Tractor runs and drives great. Also swapped one of the steering gears while the engine was out. Steers nice and smooth now. I bought it as a parts machine, decided to invest the money to get it going again. Now I am on the fence about spending more money for a new seat for it. There no padding left and the cover has big hole in it.

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Lee1977
4 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

 Now I am on the fence about spending more money for a new seat for it. There no padding left and the cover has big hole in it.

 

 

 

Go ahead and get a new seat that metal is going to get cold this winter.

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ZXT
18 hours ago, JoeM said:

Yes, took the idea and tweaked it. Used the FEL to hold it down and a large adjustable wrench with pipe extension handle and viola! Not to toooo bad!

 

Going to add a little reinforcement, plus I have a good used top plate. New bearings on the way might be done this week. Other then paint. 

 

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Very good! From what you had said I was thinking that the entire deck around the discharge was tweaked - not that the front was bent in. Hence the overkill 6' piece of pipe suggestion :lol:

 

Glad you got it back in shape!

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Ifixoldjunk

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I got my welded Frankenstein deck all oiled up and ready for storage for the winter. I guess better late than never when it comes to rust proofing.

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JoeM
4 hours ago, ZXT said:

I was thinking that the entire deck around the discharge was tweaked

Actually it was. I had set up some blocking (Not shown) and put a significant bit of down force to get it flat and true. The top was up about an inch and the front was drove into the blade and broke the spindle. I straighten the top first and it of course made the front worse. holding the deck flat and then pulling the front was part two. The line in the pic indicates the damage area. 

 

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JoeM
On 9/26/2021 at 4:07 PM, Andy N. said:

Has anyone used Por 15 on the underside of decks and spindles?

 

Yeah, works good for me. I am not deck cleaning fanatic, plus the couple of machines I use might get cleaned mid year or so. The pics are from my Kubota with high lift blades run time 30 hours. POR-15 hung in there!

 

I get the 6 pack pints. then I don't have and issue with saving leftover paint. They say to use a piece of saran wrap in the can when you close to keep the air in the can from acting on the paint. I just use the pints and get two coats. 

 

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Oldskool

I changed out the seat on the 310. A poor old Murray gave it up so a Horse could live on. No more wet butt.😃😃

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kpinnc
3 hours ago, Oldskool said:

No more wet butt.😃😃

 

Why when I read that, no matter how many times, do I hear it in my mind being spoken by Beavis?

:lol:

...He said wet butt.

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D_Mac

Well... back at it again this morning. I did a little painting on the engine. Just trying to break up all the red. Then I went through my pile of old seats and came up with this one. I prefer the lower back because I am old and it's easier to swing your leg over a low back seat. Had to remove some studs and drill some new holes but it's on there now. Much more comfortable then just a plain metal pan. It still needs some work. Leaks gas around the sediment bowl. I have to address that, otherwise it's done.

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Edited by D_Mac
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Oldskool
6 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Why when I read that, no matter how many times, do I hear it in my mind being spoken by Beavis?

:lol:

...He said wet butt.

Well dang it. Now I hear it

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lynnmor

I did the impossible today on a 520H.  The valve for the lift sprung a leak and needed new o-rings, but that valve has a phillips head screw on the front end that needs removed.  You can't even see that screw.  The two console plates need to come off to see the valve body.  Normally the valve requires removal by taking off the four hydraulic lines but that is like brain surgery.  What I did was remove the battery and tray and then the two valve body mounting bolts, the battery support has access holes for the bolts if you have a skinny 7/16" socket.  I pulled the pin from the arm that operates it and removed a small bracket that was in the way that had only one bolt.  I now was able to move the valve body to a position where I could get at the phillips head screw with a long #2 screwdriver at a slight angle working thru the battery space.  Then the spool could be pulled and the o-rings replaced. 

 

If you have four hoses and no steel lines, this might work for you.  I thought that I was in for an all day job, but was pleasantly surprised that I could pull this off in less than two hours.

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