Achto 27,827 #1 Posted January 8, 2018 I disassembled a tractor this weekend to get it ready for a restoration. Of course there were a few things that were "brown welded" together, the worst of which was the roll pin through the steering wheel. I destroyed my 1/4" roll pin punch trying to remove the pin. I wanted to save the steering wheel, so heat was out of the question. Next option, drill the stupid thing out. If you want to wreck a perfectly good high speed drill bit, run it against a roll pin. If you want to shine the end of the roll pin up real nice, try a cobalt drill bit. Sooo, what to do? This is what will work - A carbide tipped drill bit will cut through the roll pin. I purchased a multi purpose carbide bit but you could also use a masonry bit. 9 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,193 #2 Posted January 8, 2018 It didn't happen if ther are no pics! Other than th e one crack down the lenght of the spoke that wheel didn't look too bad either. 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,827 #3 Posted January 8, 2018 Sorry, Didn't mean to be so rude. After the pin was drilled out I was still faced with getting the wheel off of the shaft. Luckily the dash slipped through the cross pieces on the press so I was able to press the shaft out of the wheel. There are a few cracks in the steering wheel but I should be able to repair them. 6 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,193 #4 Posted January 8, 2018 Ain't that a pain that dash hanging off ther just getting in the way? 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,748 #5 Posted January 8, 2018 11 hours ago, WHX14 said: Ain't that a pain that dash hanging off ther just getting in the way? sure is. That's why I have cut the shafts on several of mine. Pretty easy to reconnect them with a sleeve coupling and two more roll pins 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,193 #6 Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: reconnect them with a sleeve coupling and two more roll pins Does that result in a sloppy wheel feel? I would guess not if the coupling is a good fit. What your source on the coupling Ed material ? Would allow for some custom height adjustments if desired & some anti seize would make for easy future disassembly. A 1055 & 400 that I stripped down had the lower gear pinned on and that one USUALLY comes out easy due to the grease in the area. Most late models are welded but just something to check before the french words start flying. Sometimes the locking collar under the dash can be brown welded on and give you fits. Worst part about any stuck wheel, roll pin (or engine pulley) is the inability to use the heat wrench. It would have been interesting to possibly try the battery arc method to free up that pin. I have never tried it but they claim it sometimes works. Edited January 8, 2018 by WHX14 gramma 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 6,123 #7 Posted January 8, 2018 I found its easier to cut the shaft and collar and replace with a new collar and a length of 3/4 stock. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #8 Posted January 8, 2018 If you want to go this route with a collar and roll pins - use the heavier spiral pins, they can take a much higher load and that's why WH used them on so many of their parts. McMaster and others stock them in bulk quantities - it's handy to have a few sizes in stock for replacements for our equipment. It's not too hard to go into the steering shaft at the gear end and cut out that weld - I just use a 1/8" or 3/16" grinding wheel on the angle grinder and knock the gear off - makes it easier to remove it from the dash on the older models and put that stubborn steering wheel in a press to remove the shaft without destroying the hard to find wheels. Plus, when it's done it all looks stock again... Sarge 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joshn569 273 #9 Posted February 9, 2018 I have the same exact problem. You have a pic of the bit by any chance? My steering wheel is in really nice shape and i dont want to break it trying to remove as i think i can work around it possibly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,827 #10 Posted February 10, 2018 7 hours ago, Joshn569 said: I have the same exact problem. You have a pic of the bit by any chance? I picked up my carbide tipped bit at a local True Value hardware store. You can also use a carbide tip masonry bit. One word or advise, don't be afraid to increase you drill speed. Fast with a lot of pressure will work the best when using a carbide tip bit on hardened steel. If you have any more questions, I'd be happy to help. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
