Wheele

[857 14]

Hi all.

Can any body help please, I am rebuilding my 211-3 and noticed the front wheel axles are not in a straight line but towing out, there is no adjustment on the ball joint assy as they are a fixed length 21mm is this correct?

Many Thanks

[rmaynard 15,610]

Don't know about the 211-3, but on most other Wheel Horses a toe-in of about 1/8" is normal. If there is nothing damaged like a bent spindle, I would get a new set of tie-rods. They new ones should be adjustable. We have a vendor that sells them (don't know if he ships overseas), or you can always find some on eBay.

[wallfish 17,083]

I'm not familiar with the steering set up on those models but it may be possible the tie rods are not installed correctly.

If they're connected to the steering arms and/or the steering thingy on the wrong side, the tie rods will be on an angle and therefore shorten the distance between the steering arms on the spindles and the steering thingy causing a toe out condition. Tie rods should be mounted so they're straight as possible. Could be the top or bottom, front or back or whatever works best to get them straight.

 

 

Edited December 31, 2017 by wallfish

[857 14]

Thank you for your comments the tie rods will only fit one way as they are handed, I can’t see why you would need a tow in or out on this type of machine, I think with the wheels on it will be quite noticeable , I haven’t quite finished the wheels to be able to check.

Thanks

[pacer 3,174]

I have found this problem on 3-4 of the horses I have rebuilt and as you are finding out there dont seem to be any way of correcting it. Since the tierods are generally worn badly when I get them I just make new ones that are adjustable. You may not have the means to do this (I have a lathe) so you probably should look into what maynard suggested - find some that are adjustable.

 

Toe out will cause rapid tire wear along with making steering very difficult.

[WH nut 553]

What has happened  over time the spindles have sagged (bent upward) front weight or popping wheelies. You can try to straighten them but be careful. They break about the time you get them where you want them

[857 14]

Bearing in mind the wheel rims are 8" dia the distance between the rear and front of the rim is a massive 2cm tow out  the only conclusion I have come to is at some time some one has replaced the tie bars with the wrong length ones, they were not adjustable and no weare in the ball and socket of the ends.

I have now decides is to put new adjustable rod ends onto a new tie bar.

Finding it difficult to find rod ends in the UK,  may be cheaper to obtain from the US despite the postage cost .

[nj1052 15]

Here you go

 

http://www.illstonandrobson.com/SR.html

 

I have just made new tie rods for my Commando 800 using 3/8" rod and 4 new rod ends. It all works very well.

 

Cheers

Edited January 8, 2018 by nj1052
accuracy

[Skipper 1,788]

A simple bush mechanic solution that I know works, is to grind out the hole that the ball joint mounts to, and make it longer to the side you want. In this case towards the inside on each spindle. Then you have in effect a fully adjustable connection, and yes, it will hold up. I have a tractor that has been running with that for many years now. Want to feel more sure it will hold up, then weld up the hole and re drill where the hole is supposed to be.

 

Of cause the right solution is new adjustable rod ends, but in a pinch, this will work just as good, albeit not being "correct"

[R. L. Addison 299]

I have bent the spindle arms a little bit with a big adjustable wrench if it is not too far out. (With the tie rod arm holes).

[andrewLL 17]

Hi, I made up a replacement rod using threaded bar from Screwfix and rod ends from a company called Bearing Boys.  I’m sure that you could turn a bar down and thread each end for a neater job.  Is that a Myford lathe in the background?

 

Bearing Boys also sell belts if you need them for the cutter deck and less expensive than Toro belts from a lawnmower shop.

 

Andrew