K321 stator help

[Busman 14]

I've got an 85 314-A with a kolher k321s. I am rebuilding the engine and trying to figure out if this is the right stator. I was not getting any AC headlights and it wouldn't charge well before I took it apart. 

[Aldon 4,827]

Looks like your missing some of the statir windings. They should be around the entire 360 degrees.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,161]

This one should have the 3 amp charging system with a diode in the stator output to charge the battery and a 2nd stator producing AC current to power the lights only. I don't know what they look like but you do have 2 outputs.

Find the connector where those 2 wires plug into the tractor wiring and pull that connector apart. Stick an ohmmeter to the 2 terminals and see if you have continuity. Then reverse the leads and try again. One way you should have it and the other way you should not. One of those terminals is connected to a diode and the diode to the wire. Feel the tape wrapped around the diode to locate it. The body of the diode is likely about 3/16" in diameter and 3/8" long.

Not much else you can do to test without have the flywheel back on and the engine running.

Does it look like any of the magnets are missing inside the flywheel?

 

Garry

[Busman 14]

22 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

This one should have the 3 amp charging system with a diode in the stator output to charge the battery and a 2nd stator producing AC current to power the lights only. I don't know what they look like but you do have 2 outputs.

Thanks for the reply. So are you saying I am missing a part of the stator winding?  The magnets are in tact and in  good shape. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,161]

This is the manual you need

On page 8.10 and 8.11 the test procedure is listed.

There is a black lead and a yellow lead shown so think you have everything.

There are some resistance measurements you can take with the flywheel off and the expected results are in the manual.

If you don't understand let us know and we will explain.

 

Garry

[Busman 14]

Awesome this helps thank you. 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

I have a K321 on the bench at my Truck shop, have my Mechanic pull the Flywheel & take a pic to see if all there & post Wed if possible, mines off a C145A

[oldredrider 2,553]

1 hour ago, Big_Red_Fred said:

I have a K321 on the bench at my Truck shop, have my Mechanic pull the Flywheel & take a pic to see if all there & post Wed if possible, mines off a C145A

2 different ignition systems. C-145 has a 15 amp, 314 auto has a 3 amp. Best to go by Garry's file. 

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Just as Garry said. I've seen those on Google looking for a stator for a k341.

The 15 amp stator has all the windings and posts all the way around. 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

21 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

2 different ignition systems. C-145 has a 15 amp, 314 auto has a 3 amp. Best to go by Garry's file. 

Thankyou, that i didnt know LOL, but thats why we work as a team

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

So the 414-8 my son Alex has, thats not 15 amp then correct ?

[oldredrider 2,553]

Depends on the Kohler engine. Early 414's (K Series) had 15 amp. Magnum Kohlers had 3 amp systems.

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

[oldredrider 2,553]

That's a  Magnum 3 amp system.

[rmaynard 15,768]

I have a similar 3 amp stator on a K301. Curious thing is that the flywheel only has 4 magnets on it. 

 

[pacer 3,174]

I just finished a refurb on a 414-8 with a K-341 (non-magnum) that had this 3 amp stator set-up. When I saw it I was as flummoxed as yall, but - as usual - Garry straightened me out. The wiring was a nightmare on the tractor and what with the maze of safety features it had, that would be almost impossible to to get corrected - I just ripped all the original wiring out and went back with a simple start-run-stop wiring. To help with this change over I had a K241 sitting on the bench and a quick inspection showed that the 15 amp stator/flywheel would change over to the K341 (the flywheels would NOT interchange) With that and a different regulator the wiring was quickly done!

 

Edited December 27, 2017 by pacer
add picture

[Busman 14]

55 minutes ago, pacer said:

I just finished a refurb on a 414-8 with a K-341 (non-magnum) that had this 3 amp stator set-up. When I saw it I was as flummoxed as yall, but - as usual - Garry straightened me out. The wiring was a nightmare on the tractor and what with the maze of safety features it had, that would be almost impossible to to get corrected - I just ripped all the original wiring out and went back with a simple start-run-stop wiring. To help with this change over I had a K241 sitting on the bench and a quick inspection showed that the 15 amp stator/flywheel would change over to the K341 (the flywheels would NOT interchange) With that and a different regulator the wiring was quickly done!

 

Good to know, thanks for the feedback. I guess I was mostly surprised because when I opened it up it almost looked broken. There are hardly any pictures of this stator on the internet.  I'm going to clean up all of the connections and check the diode to make sure it's in good shape. If everything checks out I'm going to put it back together. Hopefully tonight I can get the rest of the block pulled apart and measured for the Machine Shop. 

 

 

[Sarge 3,464]

Just a tip - let the machine shop measure it unless you have a proper bore micrometer , that is a very specific job and those tools aren't cheap as well as the learning curve to use them . Let them fit the piston to the block per the book's specs , as well as the rod - takes any mistakes out of the equation . A good shop won't bore a block without that piston in hand - there are too many variations and the specs are pretty tight on those old Kohlers .

Sarge

[Busman 14]

9 hours ago, Sarge said:

Just a tip - let the machine shop measure it unless you have a proper bore micrometer , that is a very specific job and those tools aren't cheap as well as the learning curve to use them . Let them fit the piston to the block per the book's specs , as well as the rod - takes any mistakes out of the equation . A good shop won't bore a block without that piston in hand - there are too many variations and the specs are pretty tight on those old Kohlers .

Sarge

Good tips. I do have all of the proper measuring tools and am more measuring for my own knowledge. I wouldn't trust a machine shop that didn't take their own measurements. Honestly I was hoping it would all measure to spec and I could just hone but that was not the case. 

[formariz 11,988]

On 12/26/2017 at 2:34 PM, Busman said:

I've got an 85 314-A with a kolher k321s. I am rebuilding the engine and trying to figure out if this is the right stator. I was not getting any AC headlights and it wouldn't charge well before I took it apart. 

Here is a replacement.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Horse-312-A-Tractor-Mower-Kohler-K301-12HP-Engine-Stator/202148904135?hash=item2f11037cc7:g:hVQAAOSwtUNZ37Pp

 

Edited December 29, 2017 by formariz

[Busman 14]

Ok I have been working on this end I'm confident that it is a bad diode. I was able to find the replacement diode kit from Kohler for around $12 but I really just need the diode  Does anyone know what the spec is on this? Based on some researching I did I found it was a 6amp 1000piv diode. The original diode is stamped  G3D GI

 

[wallfish 17,141]

58 minutes ago, Busman said:

G3D GI

$1.50 on ebay

[Busman 14]

Thanks I saw those it don't want to wait 30 days for shipping from Taiwan. We don't have radio shack anymore but if I knew the diode # I'm sure I could find it locally

[VinsRJ 723]

When I rebuilt my M10 I replaced the 3amp stator with a 15amp stator. Works like a charm and has plenty of out put to run anything I want.

[Busman 14]

Does a 6amp, 50 volt rectifier diode sound right?  I would hate to pay 11 bucks for a kit when I only need the diode. Any sources??? This is the only thing I am missing to start my rebuilt kohler k321. 

 

https://www.rfparts.com/diodes/diodes-rectifier/mr750.html