What do you WISH you KNEW BEFORE your first Resto/Repaint?

[squonk 41,288]

21 minutes ago, JPWH said:

Thanks. Is it difficult to mix in small batches?

No Jay. My Napa can mix half pints with most formula's. The urethane enamel red I use my store can put it in a spray can. So the color can be just a few ounces. Only draw back to the can is there is no hardener in it and it's expensive for the amount of paint you get. but it's great if you need to touch up a trailer hitch or something like that.

[953 nut 55,706]

1 hour ago, JPWH said:

Thanks. Is it difficult to mix in small batches?

If you are talking about adding reducer and activator to the acrylic urethane you will want to pick up some mixing cups that have all the ratios printed right on them, They come in 1/2 pint, pint and quart sizes and any auto body supply sells them.

1 Pint Paint Mixing Cups, Quick Mix Measuring, Plastic (12/Pack) Item #: KUS 916-12PK         Your Price: $8.96          Graduated Mix Cups that are Solvent Resistant with all the popular Mix Ratios Graduated on the side of the Cup. Graduated Mix Cups that are Solvent Resistant with all the popular Mix Ratios Graduated on the side of the Cup. Includes Graduated Measurements in Ratios: 1:1 2:1:1 3:1:1 4:1:1 6:1:1 8:1:1 Ounces The Graduated Measurements make mixing easy and accurate with all the popular brands such as PPG, DuPont, SW, Sikkens, Glasurit, and more.

[cschannuth 3,816]

If you are going to use a spray can I highly recommend Premium Decor Fiesta Red from True Value. It goes on really flat and glossy. It dries very quickly and very hard. When I inherited Dad’s 161 it needed some touch up and this was a perfect match. The best part is it’s only $3.50/can. 

 

Here are are some before and after pics plus some items I added later and painted to match. 

 

[rmaynard 15,580]

No. It comes in two parts, paint and activator. You measure out a 4:1 mix. Thin if necessary.

 

I don't want to hijack this thread, so I'd suggest searching the forum for info already discussed about this subject.

[ebinmaine 68,145]

13 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

don't want to hijack this thread,

Thanks Bob... never worry about hijacking one of my threads. 

I like all kinds of info whether it's a direct hit or off on a side tangent. 

Great bunch of people here with a ton of knowledge to share. 

 

[oliver2-44 9,832]

If you need to replace any of the plastic bushings like the PTO  shaft bushings in the dash tower consider using flanged brass bushings. You can get them at your hardware store that had all those drawers of speciality items. I Installed a bushing for the steering shaft on my 312-8 with JB Weld 2 years ago and it's still holding 

[Sarge 3,463]

Just a tip - if you want to store paint for any length of time after it's been opened and keep any oxygen from starting to cure it in the can you can fill the can with inert gas if you have either a mig or tig welder . Disconnect the ground , disable the wire feed if needed and cycle the gas through the welder to fill up the can - I use plastic wrap under the lid to make a really tight seal . Filling it with argon or CO2 mix will stop almost any paint mix from hardening and wrecking the left overs - both those inert gasses are heavier than air and will push out the O2 in less than a few seconds . Same with bigger cans - I've stored left over gallons that had reducer mixed in already for years with no problems . It's also the preferred method for storing chemical coatings such as POR-15 and others since they are cured by O2 and humidity - the inert gas will keep them fresh for a long time .

 

Just make absolutely certain that can is isolated from the ground so the welder can't light off a spark and ignite the stuff - that would be bad . You could just use the gas line directly off the bottle and use the regulator to keep the pressure/flow set low and do it that way , a lot safer .

 

Sarge

[rmaynard 15,580]

@Sarge That's great info. I read about a product called Bloxygen. It's inert gas in an aerosol can. Grainger sells it for about $9.95.

[R. L. Addison 299]

 I guess I must have done a GREAT BIG NO-NO on a tractor I painted years ago, but I put stainless  flat washers between components I was reassembling after painting to separate them for blowing out dirt, spills & whatever. (Moisture could dry & not oxidize bare metal from vibration) It worked pretty well, but over the years most of it has gone amiss due to hurried service etc. I thought the cleaning was easier & better, blew off water etc. after a bath (which is very rare for me.)

 

One word of caution, watch painting where fumes can get to open flame. Just a reminder. While I was still working I saw a very large quantity of paint booth filters pulled outside an assembly building, and I saw them go up in a fireball after they had started drying. Nothing but concrete lot around but still surprised me that fire dept. was not on stand-by as much safety as the co. stressed!  But it made a believer out of me.

[Sarge 3,463]

I have heard of something in a can that is a purified inert gas - never knew what it was nor pursued it since I have the tig welder here , that's good to know .

 

Yeah , filters for booths can be pretty dangerous - years ago when I worked in a cabinet shop we had built a filter wall bank ahead of the 5hp fan system that evacuated a small building where I stained and coated a lot of cabinet parts/sections for homes . The sealer we used was pretty nasty and everything was flammable . I had used a hammer to knock the head loose on the gun after running almost 5 gallons of sealer through it - that made one lousy spark and the fan sucked it into that wall - had to drag sections of it outside while on fire to save the building and all the products I was working on that day , not good . Once that stuff was outside it really took off and it burned completely up - almost no ash left . After that day we started changing out the material a lot more often to prevent building up too much residue - always wondered if the stuff could ignite on it's own but I think the sheer volume of area kept that from happening .

 

Frankly , if you want to use a welding gas such as argon or CO2 mix to store paint - your safest way is to take it directly off the cylinder's regulator and leave the welder out of the equation as nearly all coatings are highly flammable . I can't imagine what a spark or arc start from a welder would do inside a can of paint - the results would be pretty spectacular but deadly..

 

Sarge

[ebinmaine 68,145]

On 12/9/2017 at 10:19 AM, squonk said:

Get a muffin tin or something similar to but bolts in.

Look !

My honey found some organizers under the counter today! 

[JPWH 6,085]

I tried that works good till you knock the over. I found as others have said zip lock bags and a Sharpie works best for me.

[ebinmaine 68,145]

6 minutes ago, JPWH said:

I tried that works good till you knock the over. I found as others have said zip lock bags and a Sharpie works best for me.

hmmm... I'd do that.

How 'bout baggies IN the trays???

[squonk 41,288]

Go to Staples and get some of the magnet material they make the fridge magnets out of and glue them in to the muffin holes. 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,343]

Eric , I use plastic containers that cole slaw , potato salad etc comes in. Wash the container real good , let dry , tops snap back on , they are stackable  and a magic marker lets you label them. I use them for nails , nuts and bolts  and anything else that will disappear while I am looking at it. I also use containers that Lunch meat  comes in as long as the top snaps back on the container. Most hold ham or turkey .  Don't let BRF see this or he have Taco's in plastic container at the BIG SHOW.

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

6 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Eric , I use plastic containers that cole slaw , potato salad etc comes in. Wash the container real good , let dry , tops snap back on , they are stackable  and a magic marker lets you label them. I use them for nails , nuts and bolts  and anything else that will disappear while I am looking at it. I also use containers that Lunch meat  comes in as long as the top snaps back on the container. Most hold ham or turkey .  Don't let BRF see this or he have Taco's in plastic container at the BIG SHOW.

My ear's were ringn on My Cast iron Comode ! Whos sayn BRF hahaha

[Jerry77 1,218]

18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

How 'bout baggies IN the trays???

Sure, why not?  it isn't rocket science anyway, right....

[bitten 134]

You can get the plastic 5 prong plug for your ignition switch and the terminals at NAPA. 

 

[ebinmaine 68,145]

1 hour ago, bitten said:

You can get the plastic 5 prong plug for your ignition switch and the terminals at NAPA. 

 

good to know... thanks!

2 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

I use plastic containers that cole slaw , potato salad etc comes in.

I like peanut butter... umm well... a lot.

So does our puppy dog.

We buy it in a quart size screw top container.

They're great cause I can my big paws IN them to fetch stuff.

[ebinmaine 68,145]

17 hours ago, bitten said:

You can get the plastic 5 prong plug for your ignition switch and the terminals at NAPA. 

 

I don't suppose you would happen to know or be able to get ahold of the part number?

[bitten 134]

No I don't. The terminals are called Packard 56 I believe. Just ask the guy that has been there for awhile and he should be able to look it up in his book. I got one there about a year or two ago so I know they have them, or can get them. Good luck with your project and keep the pictures coming.

 

[953 nut 55,706]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I don't suppose you would happen to know or be able to get ahold of the part number?

You can pick one up on Ebay  for $ 10.00 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Key-Switch-Wire-Harness-Connector-Plug-Asy-for-AYP-365402-3L5402-Made-In-USA-/122756068206?

[ebinmaine 68,145]

1 hour ago, bitten said:

Good luck with your project and keep the pictures coming.

Thank you and ... will do!

[ebinmaine 68,145]

On 12/13/2017 at 5:54 PM, 953 nut said:

You can pick one up on Ebay  for $ 10.00 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Key-Switch-Wire-Harness-Connector-Plug-Asy-for-AYP-365402-3L5402-Made-In-USA-/122756068206?

 

Bought !

Thanks for the tip there....

[Johndeereelfman 309]

As already stated, prep work is the key to a great finish. Take your time and don't be in a hurry to finish the project. You will get excited and want to hurry, but keep yourself from rushing. Priming your parts and making sure they are clean and smooth will help you to achieve the ultimate finish results. Some guys will wet sand parts after each part is finished with the finish coat, however I get better results in wet sanding each part after applying two coats. In other words, I apply two coats, wet sand, apply two additional coats, wet sand again, and keep following this process until I'm happy with the results. When wet sanding, start out with a lower grit and work yourself up from there. Final wet sanding should be a 1500 or 2000 grit paper. If you are planning on using a clear coat, be sure to purchase a clear coat that will be compatible with the type o paint that you choose to use for your project. Some say that Lacquer can't be used over Enamel, but I found that it can be if you allow your enameled parts to dry or cure properly before applying the Lacquer. If going with a Lacquer finish coat, I'd recommend at least 4 coats minimum, since you'll be sanding through almost two coats when it comes time to polish out the finish. 

 

Some guys use Bondo or putty to fill in rust pits, however I find it more suiting to just build up the paint (primer) until all of the pits are filled and smooth. Just make sure you allow enough time for the paint to cure, as rushing it will only cause the paint to shrink and eventually crack. If there are a lot of pits to fill, I will use a different color of primer to fill the pits then that of the primer color used to coat the tractor. This will aid in determining when you have the pits filled to the correct height of the frame, hood, footrests, etc. metal. After sanding, whether it be the primer coat or wet sanding the finish coat, always make sure the you wipe the prepped area clean before applying another coat. I like to use rubbing alcohol as it doesn't leave a film and dries quickly. It also softens the last coat a little to help the next coat adhere better.  I've been using this for years and never had any problems. 

 

There are numerous tricks of the trade on this site, so before starting your project, take a look around and read through some of the threads. Many guys have some really good tips, whereas some use the basic standard methods. All in all though, we are all just trying to help each other out and passing along what works best for each of us. 

 

Good Luck to you, and looking forward to following along with you each step of the way!