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ebinmaine

What do you WISH you KNEW BEFORE your first Resto/Repaint?

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ebinmaine

Well everyone, this is going to be the First time I've disassembled a Whole tractor to repaint and refresh a few things.

 

My 74/75 B80 is running good and seems to be what I wanted in a tractor so I'm going to pretty it up a bit this winter.

No implements, just the tractor.

I'm going to do a general degrease and clean up and spray can finish.

 

What are ALL the little things you DO, or wish you you were told, or things to look out for?

 

I have waiting to be installed:

New brake lining, rear wheel seals, some knobs and stickers...

 

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AMC RULES

Definitely start & continue lubricating all fasteners well in advance of any disassembly.

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Jerry77
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

degrease

Before you ever touch it with sandpaper or paint scraper or anything sharp.....I know, I know,,,,kerosene, gas, etc....I was a car painter in a former life and I highly recommend prep-sol....does not leave a film that can be sanded into the metal that will ruin your paint job....that being said, I wouldn't go to the expense for a worker machine.. and do as 19richie66 said....on old cars, I used a notebook to make drawings of bolt and other items locations... have fun...:twocents-02cents:

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hondagod64

Totally agree with lots of pics before taking anything apart and also with large clear bags so you can label nuts and bolts...I took so many pics just to remind myself where they went also replaced all my hardware with grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. Tractor supply here sells all there hardware by the pound...cuts cost 

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AMC RULES

Find & download your parts manual...definitely a big help when it comes to reassembly.

Typically will include all the hardware & sizes the factory used.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/

 

Edited by AMC RULES
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dclarke

Sometimes I'll use those small colored zip ties to mark the wiring and what it hooks to. Use different color combos then make a list of what combinations hook where. And pics of it in place with the zip ties on seem to help also. 

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ebinmaine

This is the beast we're up against:

 

20170820_153901.jpg.b26b2f6e652817ce3400963edb4eb317.jpgIMG_20171022_124606583.jpg.1c5817ec862e9a3762d17c5050184b06.jpg

1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

Take LOTS of photos 

 Threaded holes you can insert them into the thread about 2 turns when you paint and then they get painted too and you don't have to hold them. 

Definitely will do lots of pics.

I like the "leave ' em where they go" idea... Hadn't thought of that before. :thanks:

 

1 hour ago, Jerry77 said:

have fun

 For sure !

 

1 hour ago, AMC RULES said:

Find & download your parts manual...definitely a big help when it comes to reassembly.

Typically will include all the hardware & sizes the factory used.

I have that on the PC desktop.

I'll print all the exploded diagrams.

 

1 hour ago, dclarke said:

Sometimes I'll use those small colored zip ties to mark the wiring and what it hooks to. Use different color combos then make a list of what combinations hook where. And pics of it in place with the zip ties on seem to help also. 

 

Another good one.

I actually have to make a harness from scratch when I reassemble.

I'll likely use and modificationalize the colored schematic supplied by @BOB ELLISON

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JoeM

I like using a 4 wheel dolly to hold the main frame. Allows moving the tractor out of the way to work on components. Also provides a working platform of right height. I used jack stands but would recommend a wooden frame screwed into the dolly deck.

 

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Chris G

 I would agree with all the previous post. One thing that id say is take your time and do the best prep work possible before painting. Also I would say take your time and enjoy it and don't ever be afraid to ask questions. Best of luck to ya

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19richie66

You can also mount your frame to an engine stand. Then you can clean, paint, rebuild the steering and mount up most of the parts for the axle, attach a matic plates, steering tower and work on your wiring while you are at it. And you can rotate it, plus its off the ground. 

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953 nut
1 hour ago, Jerry77 said:

I highly recommend prep-sol

:text-yeahthat:  This is soooo important. Not just prior to sanding to bare metal but every time you perform any painting. Oils from your hands or contaminants from the atmosphere will come back to haunt you if you don't. Also check out @JPWH post from a couple years ago, lots of good painting tips in it.

Pick up some "Brady Tags"  from your friendly local electrician (or an electrical supply, HD or Lowe's) and use them on all of your wires and make corresponding notations on your electrical drawing.

image.jpeg.be5aa9cbbce8b0f133e48a2e4bfff857.jpeg

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Anglo Traction

All very good advice from the contributors. One point on assembly is to ensure every bolted joint is cleaned to bare metal for electrical Ground (Earthing in UK) continuity as you go.

It will avoid a lot of time trying to find out why you can't get a spark or the lights to work etc.

I used Stainless Bolts/Setscrews on my project, which are not as good at conducting Leccy as Steel, but to ensure good conductivity and continuity, I cleaned the inside hole faces in panels and frame and bound clean copper wire into the threads under the heads so the copper would bind in the holes and so would form the connections.

It meant I didn't have to chip the paint off around the holes where the bolts touched.

You can also read or follow other Thread Projects on here for any pitfalls. here's a link to my offering, a few years ago now, but still being viewed as the visit count is nearly 19500

-LINK- . It is of similar age and type to your Tractor.  Enjoy your project.

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, Anglo Traction said:

here's a link to my offering

Thanks ! for that... I'll peruse that later...

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JPWH

I agree with all above. Lots of penetrating oil before you start and would also open the trans to know the condition and replace any worn parts. Tractor will be as good as new when you finish. Good luck with your project.

 

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squonk

Get a muffin tin or something similar to but bolts in. ( voltage reg bolts in this compartment, hood stand bolts in that compartment ect) 

 

Then when picking up the paint, sort through all the cans on the shelf and only take the ones that don't have runs already in them! :)

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dells68

@ebinmaine, I'm loving the look of your tractor!  I know I've read somewhere, but what size are those front tires?  They give it one tough look!  

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Get a muffin tin or something similar to but bolts in. ( voltage reg bolts in this compartment, hood stand bolts in that compartment ect) 

 

Then when picking up the paint, sort through all the cans on the shelf and only take the ones that don't have runs already in them! :)

Loving squonk's suggestion about paint.  I always take what's first on the shelf.  Guess that's why I get so many runs.  Gotta start being more careful when I choose cans:laughing-rofl:.

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squonk

I used to mix paint during my Napa days. I picked on customers all the time. (I know you guys are thinking NO WAY!) :)

 

There was a guy who races modifieds. Nice guy but always acted like he lost his dog or something. He comes in to pick up a gallon of 

"7x" yellow. I said "I put the runs in it already so you don't have to bother." He looks at me and stares for like 10 seconds until I burst out laughing. He finally got it was a joke smiles and leaves. Calls me in a couple of days and is acting all mad. He says I gypped him because he couldn't find the runs I put in. :lol:

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BOB ELLISON

@ebinmaine when I did my C160  i was not in any hurry. It took me about 2 months to do it. But the one thing I did do is I had a lot of cardboard and I'd draw a picture of the part I was taking apart. If it was the finder I'd take out a bolt and poke a hole in the cardboard and stick the bolt in it where it was in the picture. Never did have any extra bolts or nuts. And when it came time to rewire I tried to save the connector ends if I could and replaced with new whenever I could find the right one. The 5 post switch and the 3 post regulator plugs are not easy to find. The best part is the pride i got from seeing it run good and knowing I did it my way as Frank Sinatra would sing.

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, dells68 said:

 I know I've read somewhere, but what size are those front tires?

Thanks!   :handgestures-thumbupright:

They're the rear rims off a (90's?) Crapsman with 20 x 8 x 8 tires. Filled with Rimguard beet juice to boot.

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ebinmaine
57 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

@ebinmaine when I did my C160  i was not in any hurry. It took me about 2 months to do it. But the one thing I did do is I had a lot of cardboard and I'd draw a picture of the part I was taking apart. If it was the finder I'd take out a bolt and poke a hole in the cardboard and stick the bolt in it where it was in the picture. Never did have any extra bolts or nuts. And when it came time to rewire I tried to save the connector ends if I could and replaced with new whenever I could find the right one. The 5 post switch and the 3 post regulator plugs are not easy to find. The best part is the pride i got from seeing it run good and knowing I did it my way as Frank Sinatra would sing.

 

I'm hoping to get started by the first of the year and give myself about 3 months time to finish.

That would be fine but I have to HEAT the workshop it's in so super cold days will just not be tolerable.

 

The 5 plug connector is long gone so I got a bunch of protected female 1/4" spades and just used them when I rewired for the factory switch a couple weeks ago.

The three wire one... I think someone said that has GM terminals in it? so I should be able to find them.

 

4 hours ago, squonk said:

sort through all the cans on the shelf and only take the ones that don't have runs already in them!

I'll have to remember that!

 

4 hours ago, squonk said:

Get a muffin tin or something similar to but bolts in. ( voltage reg bolts in this compartment, hood stand bolts in that compartment ect) 

 

 

7 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

Label bolts in bags

I'll probably combo the ideas on bolts and how to lose them.:P

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rmaynard

If I had the chance to go back in time before I painted my first B-100, I would have investigated single-stage acrylic urethane paint rather than wasting time and money using aerosol cans. The labor used to paint, then remove all that junk paint and redo it correctly can't be calculated. Acrylics are extremely dangerous if not used correctly, but the end result is definitely worth the effort.

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JPWH

I have been looking at the single stage acrylic urethane. If i find I can use it in small quantities I will be using it for my custom and 854's. 

 

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rmaynard
1 hour ago, JPWH said:

I have been looking at the single stage acrylic urethane. If i find I can use it in small quantities I will be using it for my custom and 854's. 

 

As long as you keep it sealed, the unmixed parts should last a couple of years. Mine did. But once mixed, you usually only have a window of a couple of hours to use it.

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JPWH
4 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

As long as you keep it sealed, the unmixed parts should last a couple of years. Mine did. But once mixed, you usually only have a window of a couple of hours to use it.

Thanks. Is it difficult to mix in small batches?

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