Pogo 57 10 #1 Posted December 4, 2017 Hi guys. I have been searching for a wiring diagram for this tractor. Found one on this site but I can't read it because it is fuzzy. My problem is PO installed a new starter switch and it will stt if I jump from the plus side of the solenoid to the coil. When I tun the key to off it still runs until I take the wire off the coil. The amp meter is not showing any needle movement. Could i have the wrong switch or a bad solenoid? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,788 #2 Posted December 4, 2017 Trace the wires and make sure nothing is disconnected. While you are there, snap a few pics so we can see what PO has put on it and how 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,509 #3 Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) I have two 1977 B-100's, and had a 1976 B-100. All three had exactly the same wiring. The wiring diagram below was shared by all three. However, in 1976, there were 4 variations in the B-100; 61-10K801, 802, 803, and 804. Wiring could have been slightly different in one or the other. Let us know which model you have. Edited December 5, 2017 by rmaynard 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,297 #4 Posted December 4, 2017 Some owners seem to have no respect for proper wiring, Probably best to start from scratch, attached is a basic wiring diagram you can use as a guide. The safety switches are not in this drawing but are very important and should be included. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #5 Posted December 5, 2017 5 hours ago, Pogo 57 said: Could i have the wrong switch or a bad solenoid? Could be either one. My (74-75) B80 had an incorrect ign switch installed and PO had also installed a separate switch which would have mimicked your jump wire. Double check your wiring using the Both the above diagrams & let us know what you have so we can help out. And: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo 57 10 #7 Posted December 5, 2017 Bob the ser# for this tractor is 61-OK802. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,509 #8 Posted December 5, 2017 That diagram should help you, but I think that you have the wrong ignition switch. Should be a 103990. You should have power to the solenoid coil in the start position only. You should have power to the ignition coil in the start and run positions. Back of switch should look like this: 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #9 Posted December 5, 2017 6 hours ago, rmaynard said: That diagram should help you, but I think that you have the wrong ignition switch. Should be a 103990. You should have power to the solenoid coil in the start position only. You should have power to the ignition coil in the start and run positions. Back of switch should look like this: Check to see if yours has an M at a terminal. .... Mine did. Some folks put in later switches, not taking the time to find the correct one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obone 142 #10 Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) I had an issue somewhat like yours. The key switch was wired wrong. If you have a meter place it on continuity (the one where when you place both probes together they make a sound). Then test out your switch with the wires off. The switch works by connecting most wires (terminals) together. In off mode no wires should be connected, in start mode it adds in the wire that goes to the solenoid and in run mode the start circuit is disconnected and the accessory circuit is connected. Mine was not powering the solenoid when in the start mode so you had to jumper the solenoid in order to power the starter. Test your key switch function, then trace where your wires go and final make sure they have power when they should. Once you know what should happen when it makes it easier to tell what's not happening. When you test for continuity there should be no power in the system IE not connected to your battery or you risk burning up your meter. Edited December 6, 2017 by obone spelling 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046 #11 Posted December 5, 2017 20 hours ago, Pogo 57 said: Bob the ser# for this tractor is 61-OK802. You are not seeing all the numbers. It will be 61-10K802 6 = 1976 1 = garden tractor rather than lawn tractor which is 2 10 = engine horse power K = Kohler engine 8 = 8-speed transmission 02 = parts list identifier Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo 57 10 #12 Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Guys, Been a few weeks since I had a chanceto look at the wiring. Yes, I do have the right switch. It seems that a PO rewired the plug or had another swithch before this one. The red wire was the only one that was correct. The orange, black and green all went the wrong terminals. Will re arrange the wires to the right configuration and hope that takes care of the problem. Just need another warm day here in central PA to do it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #13 Posted December 23, 2017 Better do it this weekend...after Monday looks to be really cold highs in the teens.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #14 Posted July 4, 2022 I found this thread while trying to find some answers to fix the wiring on this B-100 I picked up recently. I am guessing someone replaced the key switch on it - it has B-G (or O) -S-L-M iThnndicators on the back of the switch. My starter cthe cranks but the engine won't run. Wires have pretty obviously been replaced, they were all white or red. The 2 from the engine magneto weren't even connected, nor was the ammeter or rectifier. I tried following the wiring diagram above in this thread and replaced most of the wires with the right colors or as close as I had on hand. The main things are: 1) I don't know which terminals to use on the switch, or if I should just replace it with a "proper" switch, and 2) if the rectifier or ammeter are actually any good. Also, there is no in-line fuse anywhere, guessing I should put one in there between "B" and solenoid. Any thoughts on whether I can use this switch? I used my voltmeter to check the magneto output and it was flicking up to about 17 volts. Haven't priced a switch yet. Is there any way to test the rectifier? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #15 Posted July 4, 2022 9 minutes ago, davem1111 said: I found this thread while trying to find some answers to fix the wiring on this B-100 I picked up recently. I am guessing someone replaced the key switch on it - it has B-G (or O) -S-L-M iThnndicators on the back of the switch. My starter cthe cranks but the engine won't run. Wires have pretty obviously been replaced, they were all white or red. The 2 from the engine magneto weren't even connected, nor was the ammeter or rectifier. I tried following the wiring diagram above in this thread and replaced most of the wires with the right colors or as close as I had on hand. The main things are: 1) I don't know which terminals to use on the switch, or if I should just replace it with a "proper" switch, and 2) if the rectifier or ammeter are actually any good. Also, there is no in-line fuse anywhere, guessing I should put one in there between "B" and solenoid. Any thoughts on whether I can use this switch? I used my voltmeter to check the magneto output and it was flicking up to about 17 volts. Haven't priced a switch yet. Is there any way to test the rectifier? If that's a regular stock B100 with a Kohler 10 HP engine and points... That's the WRONG SWITCH. Leave the ammeter disconnected until other issues are solved. AFAIK... Rectifier can't be tested unless the engine can be started/running. I'm thinking the correct switch is a 103990. I've likely got a good used one here I can send down if ya like. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davem1111 2,030 #16 Posted July 4, 2022 4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: If that's a regular stock B100 with a Kohler 10 HP engine and points... That's the WRONG SWITCH. Leave the ammeter disconnected until other issues are solved. AFAIK... Rectifier can't be tested unless the engine can be started/running. I'm thinking the correct switch is a 103990. I've likely got a good used one here I can send down if ya like. Awesome - how much do you want for it? PM me if that would be better. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #17 Posted July 4, 2022 10 hours ago, davem1111 said: Awesome - how much do you want for it? PM me if that would be better. PM sent Sir. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #18 Posted July 4, 2022 10 hours ago, davem1111 said: Also, there is no in-line fuse anywhere, guessing I should put one in there between "B" and solenoid Earlier Wheelhorses had no fuses. A lot of us do add them as we rebuild wiring harnesses. Definitely recommend it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,297 #19 Posted July 4, 2022 Here is another color coded drawing done by @BOB ELLISON that may be helpful. As Eric said, bypass the amp meter until everything else is working properly. A 30 Amp fuse on the GREEN wire would be a good safety feature. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,589 #20 Posted July 4, 2022 @953 nut Excellent Richard. Thank you for posting that. @davem1111 This is the schematic diagram I use for wiring my tractors. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites