Help getting more power from 8hp engine (k181)

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Wow. 

That is a lot of great  information to try to get through. This is how i did my tractors . I started with transmission  then engine  then frame.

 

Transmission  (remove finder)

Check hubs bolts and hex bolts that hold hub to axle. 

Inspect axle seals

Raise transmission up and use jack stands

Drain transmission oil

Check shift boot for damage (most are)

Flush trans with diesel fuel  run 5 mins if possible let set for 1 hour then drain.

Refill with 80/90 gear oil.

 

Engine (remove hood)

Change oil 10w30

Check points or replace and replaced wire up to coil.

Replace spark plug

Remove head. clean carbon, check for flat or worn .replace with new  head gasket.

Remove carburetor, remove bowl and spray or soak to clean all jets and passageways.( Do not Replace filter and foam until after its started last)

 

Remove the breather plate clean and check valve adjustment then replace.

Check choke and throttle cables.

Replace carburetor .

 

 

Frame

Remove all electrical connector one at a time and clean with sand paper each . then electric grease each one. wires check for broken or bare spots or replace if bad with same color wire. 

Grease all fittings until old grease is expelled. 

Remove front wheels clean out old grease and repack with fresh grease.

Check brake seal and lining.

Remove gas tank clean out with soap and water.

Replace gas lines and filter to carburetor. 

Then I put gas in tank full tank.

Replaced finder removed jacks try to start. I spray gas in carb a couple times to get gas moving through lines.

When it starts on its own I put filter on carburetor  and reinstall hood.

THIS IS WHAT I DID TO MY B80.

I know there's more I forgot but it will get you up and safely running.

 

 

 

 

 

[tntatro 171]

Thanks for all that information Bob Ellison. I'd like to go through both tractors thoroughly and see what they need to at least be functioning properly and the maintenance up to date. Right now I lack both time and money so it will be slow going for a little while. I like the idea of going through them systematically and checking everything over.

[tntatro 171]

On 11/26/2017 at 11:15 PM, BOB ELLISON said:

Transmission  (remove finder)

Was that suppose to be remove fender? I may start checking over one of the tractors tomorrow.

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Yes that was fender. This dumb spell check changes words after I type them to suite itself.

[tntatro 171]

I only had time to buy gear oil and motor oil today. When I was looking at the C-160 I noticed the engine did not look like it was the original for the frame unless they were just made that way (pictured). Only one side is bolted down and the other side hangs over the frame.

 

I have a some questions:

- Can I trust that the information on the blower cover is the right information for the C-160 motor? The spec numbers are on a tag on the blower cover and I'm assuming it's the right information for the engine.

- Does anyone know the spec numbers for the 8hp k181 on the no name? At the parts store it was difficult to get the teller to sell me stuff because I didn't know the spec number. I don't have the blower cover for that one and I couldn't find any other numbers on the engine. All I wanted was a spark plug, head gasket and fuel filter and she seemed to be lost without that number. I didn't even argue, just said I'd get them later.

- Next chance I get I want to jack it up and inspect the axle seals and change the transmission fluid. What do I look for on the axle seals? Are they easy enough to just replace or is it normally only done if necessary?

- What do I do with the used oil and diesel?

[953 nut 55,194]

13 minutes ago, tntatro said:

Only one side is bolted down and the other side hangs over the frame

Special  oil pan has two bolts coming up into the pan.

19 minutes ago, tntatro said:

spec numbers for the 8hp k181 on the no name

The K 181S would be spec # 30461D.

[953 nut 55,194]

22 minutes ago, tntatro said:

- Can I trust that the information on the blower cover is the right information for the C-160 motor? The spec numbers are on a tag on the blower cover and I'm assuming it's the right information for the engine.

- Does anyone know the spec numbers for the 8hp k181 on the no name? At the parts store it was difficult to get the teller to sell me stuff because I didn't know the spec number. I don't have the blower cover for that one and I couldn't find any other numbers on the engine. All I wanted was a spark plug, head gasket and fuel filter and she seemed to be lost without that number. I didn't even argue, just said I'd get them later.

The "Teller" at the auto parts store is a poor excuse for an auto parts counter person!

I would trust the information tag on the 16 HP engine, likely the original. Spec # are only needed for major rebuild parts, not everyday maintenance stuff. Of course if the kid behind the counter only knows what the box of knowledge on the counter tells her you have to be armed and ready to defend yourself.    

[tntatro 171]

Okay, thanks a lot. I did feel under the frame and could feel one of the bolts but didn't know if it was a modification or made that way.

[tntatro 171]

What type of torque wrench should I have for working on these tractors?

[ebinmaine 67,432]

48 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The "Teller" at the auto parts store is a poor excuse for an auto parts counter person!

I would trust the information tag on the 16 HP engine, likely the original. Spec # are only needed for major rebuild parts, not everyday maintenance stuff. Of course if the kid behind the counter only knows what the box of knowledge on the counter tells her you have to be armed and ready to defend yourself.    

Having been in the auto parts industry in the past and still forced  to deal with them.... I can assure you you're WAY better off to try as much as possible to buy from actual Small Engine shops or online vendors such as we support at Redsquare. 

Most parts store chains Can't Accurately look up small engine things, if at all.

 

[tntatro 171]

48 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I can assure you you're WAY better off to try as much as possible to buy from actual Small Engine shops or online vendors such as we support at Redsquare. 

There is a good equipment shop not too far from where I live. I can give a list of what I want so far and maybe you can send me in the right direction.

 

C-160

Fuel filter - spark plug - air filter - choke cable - threaded rod assembly for raising deck - light bulbs - tail light lens - gear boot - mule drive mount - head gasket (k341) - fuel line

 

1973 no name

Rod for hood latch - spark plug - hardware to attach fender and seat - gear boot - fuel line

Edited November 29, 2017 by tntatro

[953 nut 55,194]

48 minutes ago, tntatro said:

What type of torque wrench should I have for working on these tractors?

Some auto parts stores will loan tool like torque wrenches. It is nice to have the best, but not necessary, the important thing is that the torque be uniform on all head bolts. If you make the rounds of flea markets you probably can find one reasonably priced. You can get one from Harbor freight for about $ 20 that will do everything you need. I like the "Click" type for heavy tightening and a 3/8"beam type for light tightening.

[tntatro 171]

1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

I like the "Click" type for heavy tightening and a 3/8"beam type for light tightening.

Should I have it in in/lbs of ft/lbs?

[953 nut 55,194]

3 minutes ago, tntatro said:

Should I have it in in/lbs of ft/lbs?

Either one will do, Ft/lbs multiplied by 12 equals Inch/pounds. Some have both graduations listed on them.

[ebinmaine 67,432]

42 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You can get one from Harbor freight for about $ 20 that will do everything you need

1 hour ago, tntatro said:

There is a good equipment shop not too far from where I live. I can give a list of what I want so far and maybe you can send me in the right direction.

 

C-160

Fuel filter - spark plug - air filter - choke cable - threaded rod assembly for raising deck - light bulbs - tail light lens - gear boot - mule drive mount - head gasket (k341) - fuel line

 

1973 no name

Rod for hood latch - spark plug - hardware to attach fender and seat - gear boot - fuel line

AF, FF, Plug, Light bulbs, Choke cable all from  Auto parts store but I'd bring the old ones with you for reference

 

Fuel line - I use Tygon, only. It's rumored to be a bit more resistant to ethanol and I like to see through it.

 

Gear shift boot is available from someone on here I'm sure but I got mine local to me.

 

All the other stuff and for future reference - Take a few minutes and peruse our vendor section and get familiar with who's got what....

 

[tntatro 171]

38 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Fuel line - I use Tygon, only. It's rumored to be a bit more resistant to ethanol and I like to see through it.

Is the fuel line 1/4" id?

[ebinmaine 67,432]

13 hours ago, tntatro said:

Is the fuel line 1/4" id?

I'm not sure. Safest bet is to cut a couple inches out of your old one and bring it with you. Or, measure the end on the fuel pump or something.

[953 nut 55,194]

21 hours ago, tntatro said:

Is the fuel line 1/4" id?

All of mine are 1/4", likely yours is too

[tntatro 171]

I've finally got back to working on the tractors. I managed to change the oil and transmission fluid in both 73 no name and c160 and replaced the fuel lines + filter in the c160. I also flattened the cylinder head on the 73 no name. It was really warped in one corner and took quite a bit of work to get it flat. I even picked up a plow blade. The guy said it was originally for a 702 I think but modified to fit a long frame. $75 for the plow and brackets. It's in rough shape but seems to function fine, I used it to move some gravel for a driveway.

 

The 73 no name still smokes with the head fixed. It also fouled a plug pretty bad. When I get the time I'll clean up and adjust what I can and see if anything improves. I may need help with some of the adjustments as I get to them. It seems to have a lot of power still. If I can't get it to quit smoking, should it be rebuilt or is it okay to run it until it gets real bad before a rebuild? After it's warmed up a bit I can't see smoke anymore but it smokes pretty bad at first. I mainly don't want to run it beyond repair but I would like to use it for some mowing this spring to see how it goes.

[Ed Kennell 38,145]

If it starts OK and runs with power and does not have any excessive knock,  I would not worry about smoke during start up.    Just keep a close check on the oil level.

[ebinmaine 67,432]

3 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

If it starts OK and runs with power and does not have any excessive knock,  I would not worry about smoke during start up.    Just keep a close check on the oil level.

[tntatro 171]

Just thought I'd give an update on the tractors. The C160 is still running strong with no smoke or knocks. I actually had to sell it shortly after I got it because I didn't have much money but I sold it to my ex girlfriend and I still see it all the time. They mow with it a lot, they probably put 500 hours on it. The 8hp 4 speed is now an 8hp 8 speed and gets used for pulling a dump cart and dragging small logs out of the woods. The engine smoked pretty bad after using it for a season so I put a rebuilt K181 on it. It runs great.