Gear shift problem

[andrewLL 17]

Hi, hoping someone can help me.  I've just started my 1972 Raider not having touched it since July and it fired up first go, can't complain about that.  However after a few minutes use I stopped to refuel and then could not get it inlto gear.  I found that the main lever 1 2 3 + R (not high / low) was very loose.  It appears that the small bolt that holds the shift lever in place had come undone.  It was only finger tight and when I removed it, it broke into two.  Fortunately nothing went into the gear box, but I dropped the end with the reduced diameter peg that located the shifter.

 

As I am away from home in SW France I do not have many spares available, but I do have a nut and bolt of the correct thread but just need to know what diameter the end needs to be turned down to and what length?  Can anybody help?  I have a friend out here with a lathe so that part should be easy.

 

I expected to be able to select a gear just by holding the selector in place but could not, is this normal or are there bigger problems?

 

Any help would be appreciated, oh and just before coming over to France I bought a black hood Wheel horse on fleebay with no engine, but have a 16hp Kohler in the shed that should fit, just hope it works as I got it for next to nothing and the previous owner said it spat flames from the carb!  A project for the winter.

 

Thanks, Andrew

 

[rmaynard 15,588]

Many guys have used dog-point set screws from McMaster-Carr. Their 1/4"-20 set screw has a dog-point that is .156" (3.9 mm) diameter.

[andrewLL 17]

Hi Bob, thanks for your reply, I have had a bolt turned down to 3.9mm diameter and refitted the gear stick but I still have a problem and hope someone can point in the right direction.

 

The gear stick is fitted with the dog point screw locating it but not too tight as I assume it needs some movement but it is stuck in gear.  I think it is in second but not 100% sure.  The gear stick is back close to the seat which would correspond to 1st or reverse but will not move forward.  I assume the lever was not correctly located before fitting the locating screw.  I am not quite sure how the screw should work because unless it is very 'sloppy' it will only allow side to side movement of the lever.  Can anyone help please?

 

Any way I was able to cut nearly all of the grass in one gear with no neutral before another problem re-occurred and the tractor lost nearly all power (I will post a question separately under engines), I guess this is all part of the challenge of running a 45 year old tractor.

 

Thanks in advance for all the help I know will be forthcoming.

 

Andrew

[953 nut 55,743]

 

Wheel Horse shifter fix

 

   

If your shift lever comes out of the transmission or is stuck in one gear first back out the “Dog-point” screw that retained the shifter. Take a look in the hole the shifter came out of to be sure it is in neutral as shown above.

 

Inspect the dog-point to be sure it is in good condition and back off on the locking nut a couple of turns. Insert the shifter and run the dog-point into the dimple in the shift lever collar snugging it up with an allen wrench, don’t tighten it. Be sure the shifter works smoothly then tighten the lock nut while holding the dog-point steady with the allen wrench.

[R. L. Addison 299]

I have seen the roll pin sheared in the gear drive unit. This is the first thing I would check from what I am understanding. I disassembled a six-speed

and after head scratching, after I found the problem realized I could have fixed the problem through the shift hole. Live & learn.

[Racinbob 11,204]

Here's another place to get them.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/25393

If they don't have them in stock they will get them to the branch with no shipping charge. The price was lower than listed....I think about 95¢

 

Oops! I didn't notice that you are in the UK but they do have several branches over there.

[Skipper 1,788]

This is a long shot, but I'm thinking that if the problem started right after you had the shifter arm out of it? Then perhaps it could be an option to check if it is put back in its correct place?. I'm not a genious on transmissions, but I would imagine you could put the stick in wrong, so it do not "catch" right.

 

Just a thought

[andrewLL 17]

Thank you all for your assistance here, the picture was especially helpful.  It's all back together now and working as it should.

Andrew

[PDQ 1]

On ‎11‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 8:24 AM, Racinbob said:

Here's another place to get them.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/25393

If they don't have them in stock they will get them to the branch with no shipping charge. The price was lower than listed....I think about 95¢

 

Oops! I didn't notice that you are in the UK but they do have several branches over there.

 

RacinBob,

 

Thanks for the URL. That's the exact part I'm missing from my 1970 Raider 10 transmission lever. The guy I bought it from used a 1/4 - 20 bolt which of course, doesn't hold it in place. 

 

There's a Fastenal a few miles from me. I'll drop by there and get the part. Again, thanks for the direct URL.

 

And  953 Nut, thanks for the view down into the transmission for the correct alignment before inserting the lever. I spent hours studying transmission overhaul info but that single picture of yours is exactly what I didn't have and exactly what I needed.

 

Thanks again guys.

 

Paul

[RDF 3]

Hello everyone, I am facing a similar problem. In other posts I have noticed a nice picture of the shifter with with the collar attached. Should the collar be physically attached to the shifter and come out in one piece? When my shifter came out, the collar was left in the hole. I am afraid of unscrewing the set screw any further and losing the collar down the hole.

[rmaynard 15,588]

It should be attached to the shifter.

Mine have all been welded like in this picture.

[WHX?? 49,145]

 RDF

Most are welded as Bob's pic shows  but there have been reports of them  attached with a roll pin. Fashion a hook of sorts and try and hook it out while slowly backing off the dog point. You do not want to drop that in the transmission or you will be splitting the cases. A strong magnet or grab it or tight with a needle nose vise grip might work to pull it up and out but I would stick with plan A. Replace the roll pin once out to locate it back on the shaft  and then have it  welded.

Edited December 12, 2017 by WHX12

[953 nut 55,743]

         @RDF, Jim has answered this question very well. If you have other questions please post them.

[RDF 3]

Excellent! I managed to fish it out without dropping it in. Looks like mine was indeed just a roll pin with no weld. The roll pin is completely sheared. I guess that is my problem. Thanks for the great advice!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

933168 roll pin for the shifter donut 5/32" x 13/16"

Replaced by 32121-114 spirol pin

 

Garry

[Horse Newbie 7,114]

Just myworth, but I've never been able to get a shifter lever anywhere near back in place unless those two forks, or whatever they are called were in the position that the picture shows.(looking in the shifter hole)Guess that is what is usually neutral, right?

Edited December 27, 2017 by Horse Newbie
Better choice of words

[WHX?? 49,145]

Yes that is neutral as shown in the pic. It is the easiest to put the shifter back in in that position. The transmission should be in neutral when adjusting the dog point.  If its not in that position an appropriate screwdriver can used to get it there.