D200 trans axle

[Joe Cubells 0]

My 1975 D200 needs a replacement or rebuild of its rear trans axle- does anyone out there know where I can find one, or a shop that can do a rebuild?

 

thanks, Joe C

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Are you sure the  transaxle needs rebuild, or is it the  hydro pump and motor systems that needs repair.  

Can you describe your problems with the D-200 .....what is wrong with it?

 

[Joe Cubells 0]

Well, the trans axle has leaked oil for a long time, but was slow enough just to be a minor nuisance, until over the summer while I was mowing the wheels locked- would turn about one revolution fwd or bkwd whether under power or after opening the push valve and pushing- but then that problem suddenly gave way when I tried a lot of back and forth with the drive lever. Then the oil leak got a lot worse- so much so that it was not possible to keep it full for any length of time. 

 

Brought to to a good shop, and they told me it was the transaxle. Have been looking for a replacement since August.

 

I read another post here that leads me to believe I may have fractured the case by jamming a loose bolt against it :(. 

[R. L. Addison 299]

I'm in process of putting a "D" series transaxle in my "C" series. The difference in them is the axles, the "D"'s are longer.

It's not much of a problem to change the units as far as technical knowledge, but it is a lot of work, and time consuming. Wish you were close & I would give you a hand,. with parts & labor. Good luck. Ron   dunngawn@hotmail.com

[pacer 3,174]

This was/is a fairly common problem with the D's -- a bolt in the differential has broken, or the nut backed off and the loose piece drops to the bottom of the case and as the gears are turning they will strike the broken piece against the case causing it to crack/break. If youre lucky the case will be the only part damaged. Grade 5 bolts were used and they just wernt up to the strain that the bigger D's put on them and eventually break, this was corrected with later models by using grade 8. (On repair many owners got to grade 9) Also many owners have had luck with welding or brazing the cracks closed (2 of my D's are brazed)

 

The removal is fairly straight forward though quite labor intensive, the MAJOR problem will be removing the axle hubs! There is only one gasket, its between the 2 case halves - and, they are no longer available so youll have to make your own - pretty easy to do. Then there is a set of O rings to replace and if you should need, the axle seals.

 

There are several posts on this procedure throughout the forum on this and many, many of us have done it, so you should have plenty of help!

[ol550 830]

5 hours ago, pacer said:

 

 

The removal is fairly straight forward though quite labor intensive, the MAJOR problem will be removing the axle hubs! There is only one gasket, its between the 2 case halves - and, they are no longer available so youll have to make your own - pretty easy to do. Then there is a set of O rings to replace and if you should need, the axle seals.

 

 

 

If you decide to tackle this, don't overwhelm yourself with the hubs for too long. The axles extend far enough from the case that you can split the transaxle halves far enough to unbolt the

differential case and remove the axle snap rings and slide the axles out. Then press the axles out of the hubs as it would be a real pain to assemble with the hubs on.

[pacer 3,174]

56 minutes ago, ol550 said:

Then press the axles out of the hubs as it would be a real pain to assemble with the hubs on.

 

This is actually the better way to go about this - After pulling my hair out trying to get ONE off while on the tractor, I did as 550 suggests and put them under a 20ton press, and even then it strained the press-- they are tough!

[Joseph Cubells 1]

Wow-- You  all are awesome-- thanks for all the tips-- I will need to show this discussion to the guys at the shop-- no way I would try this on my own!  So I saw in one post that some folks re-drill the bolt holes and replace them with heavier duty ones-- is this advisable?

 

Thanks again,

 

Joe

[daveoman1966 3,762]

Since you have to take the trans apart anyway, and once you have the transmission COMPLETELY  separated from the tractor, you can split the cases apart by removing the 5 or 6 bolts holding it together.  Spread it apart several inches , then reach in ...with long wrenches....and remove the 4 differential bolts, letting the diff come apart too.  Then you'll have each trans side, wtih axle in it.  The axle will slide right out, then you can put it in a hyd press to gt the axle hub off.  This is a WHOLE LOT easier than fighting to get the hubs off, then separate the trans cases.

Edited November 7, 2017 by daveoman1966

[Joseph Cubells 1]

Thanks again-- I will need to show this to the guys in the shop... this work is way beyond my pay grade!

[Joseph Cubells 1]

Well, Pacer had it exactly right-- a bolt came loose and got chewed up by the gears-- what a mess (see pic). The guys at Manchester Power House have pulled the transaxle apart-- the 46-tooth gear, part 4-29A (or 101887 on one of the parts warehouse sites) has some chipped teeth. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement?  It is a discontinued part.

[R. L. Addison 299]

If that is the "bull" gear, I have one.It would have to be drilled out as per service bulletin and derusted, and I would have to be sure it is 1 1/8 flanges. If it is needed I may be able to drill it.

[Joseph Cubells 1]

Thank you-- let me check with Skip at the shop about the re-drilling.

 

I found on Ebay a set of transaxle components from a C-161.  The picture looks like the part I need, but there are no part #s listed, so I cannot really tell-- does anyone know if the transaxle from te C-161 is comparable to the D-200?

["D"- Man 827]

I am not sure what the end caps from a C-161 look like, but I have a partially assembled differential from an 18 Automatic {above} and a D-180 {below} these are for the smaller bolts {above} and the larger bolts {below}.  As can be seen, .the bolt holes were bored close to the edge.

This is what could happen to an end cap that originally had the smaller holes and subsequently has been bored out for the larger diameter bolts.

This is why I recommend upgrading to the ring gear and end caps that were designed for the larger bolts.