Got a "new" C120 Wheelhorse

[AlexR 1,208]

28 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Them're neat. 

Thanks I pulled them off the Raider 10 I grew up with, when I was there last spring. 

I still kinda regret not taking the whole tractor even though it was next to a shop fire so one side of it was all burned up, I remember the manual transmission was having issues it had already had a repair in it. The engine was on its last leg the steering wheel and hood were destroyed from a branch falling on it from the same fire. It was in rough rough shape.

 

You can tell the two weights that are very rusty were on the fire side. 

[AlexR 1,208]

Got the rebuild kit for the carb.

 

And got stainless steel screws for the throttle plate. Waiting on some split lock washers to come in to finish that up, also going to use loctite as well. 

 

And next I have a question for you guys so I am going to flatten the head when I replace the head gasket, so I have this piece of 1/4" thick glass, or I have a delta table saw. Which should I use as the flat surface for the sandpaper? 

 

Edited March 16 by AlexR

[Ed Kennell 40,305]

I would use the glass.

[kpinnc 13,511]

3 hours ago, AlexR said:

And got stainless steel screws for the throttle plate. Waiting on some split lock washers to come in to finish that up, also going to use loctite as well. 

 

Red loctite, and plenty of it. 

 

I had a Magnum ingest a brass butterfly screw. Mashed it flat as a pancake. Stainless will likely break the head and piston. 

[ebinmaine 70,389]

3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I would use the glass.

 

Seconded. 

 

Lay a towel on whatever surface the glass will be on. 

Lay the glass flat and even. 

Tape the sand paper to the glass. 

I use several grits. 

Sand away.....

 

BE SURE TO ROTATE THE CYLINDER HEAD OFTEN.  

 

 

[AlexR 1,208]

34 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

Red loctite, and plenty of it. 

 

I had a Magnum ingest a brass butterfly screw. Mashed it flat as a pancake. Stainless will likely break the head and piston. 

Definitely I am not planning on those screws coming back out, until those bushings wear out so not for a long long time. 

[AlexR 1,208]

23 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Lay a towel on whatever surface the glass will be on. 

Lay the glass flat and even. 

Tape the sand paper to the glass. 

I use several grits. 

Sand away.....

BE SURE TO ROTATE THE CYLINDER HEAD OFTEN.  

Yes I was thinking about that, a towel would provide some cushion for a not perfectly flat surface under the glass. 

 

I have read a figure 8 sanding pattern is good to do. 

[ebinmaine 70,389]

9 minutes ago, AlexR said:

figure 8 sanding pattern

 

That's true...but...

A Kohler cylinder head on a standard 8.5 x 11 piece of sand paper won't leave much room for the figure 8 motion. 

BBT and I have found that a straight motion going the longer direction is easier. 

I spin the head about 20 to 30 strokes to maintain an even cut.  

 

Plan on a solid hour of sanding off n on over a couple days and you'll get good results. 

 

 

[AlexR 1,208]

37 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

A Kohler cylinder head on a standard 8.5 x 11 piece of sand paper won't leave much room for the figure 8 motion.

Didn't even think of that, thank you very much for the advise! Very helpful. 

[Handy Don 13,264]

15 hours ago, AlexR said:

And next I have a question for you guys so I am going to flatten the head when I replace the head gasket, so I have this piece of 1/4" thick glass, or I have a delta table saw. Which should I use as the flat surface for the sandpaper? 

¼” glass can flex. Use the glass on the table saw on a thin cloth just to anchor the glass. 

[peter lena 9,068]

@AlexR  like running in any  recent engine on a seperate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel , also drop carb bowl , fresh fuel filter , typically the rubber flue hoses  break down , with ethanol  , clogging anything , personally add STA BIL  fuel treatment to all my stuff , eliminated  debris , pete 

[peter lena 9,068]

@AlexR  anything I  suggest  is what I have tried , experimented with , rarely have a one and done , elimination of an issue , that fuel issue , was easy , a repetitive problem , like fuel hose break down , has to be eliminated first , every visible point , has to stay clean / clear , STA BIL  fuel storage additive  , has done it for me , no debris any ware , my stuff  starts right up after long sitting  , related clear fuel filter is clean , realise this is an area of contention , I DO NOT HAVE TO WIN , have also eliminated long runs of rubber hose , with steel brake  line , leaving only the  tank / carb areas , with  hose and filter . my stuff starts up with zero smoke or hesitation , had 4  small engines , tractors / generator , that were  changed over , no fuel issues at all . also my views of mechanical repair are different , millwrighting does that to you , swiss lewa gear pumps , pete   

[AlexR 1,208]

@peter lena I do already use only non-ethanol gas in all my small engine stuff and don't have any issues with clogging or starting after they sit a while.

I only use stabil for stuff that sits a lot especially during winter like the generator and the z-turn

That is a good idea about running some steel line, I used rubber the whole way. 

[AlexR 1,208]

Getting the weights painted, 

And got the lock washers for the throttle plate screws, so got those in with red thread locker. Not sure those screws are coming back out 

 

 

[kpinnc 13,511]

3 hours ago, AlexR said:

Not sure those screws are coming back out 

 

Probably for the best. 

[AlexR 1,208]

Got the front rims painted. 

 

And got weights mounted on the landside of the tractor for plowing, the tires are already fluid filled.

 

[rjg854 11,866]

15 hours ago, AlexR said:

And got weights mounted on the landside of the tractor for plowing, the tires are already fluid filled

May I suggest putting caps on those protruding bolts or cutting them a bit shorter, your shims just might thank you.  

[squonk 42,363]

1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

May I suggest putting caps on those protruding bolts or cutting them a bit shorter, your shims just might thank you.  

Acorn nuts work and look good. 

[WHX?? 50,560]

Pike nuts... for chariots of fire... 

[AlexR 1,208]

Got the front weights on.

 

 

 

And then I removed the battery to put it on the charger. And as I was doing that gas just starting pouring out of the bottom of the tank of course I had just filled it all the way up lol.

It was the rubber grommet that split. Fortunately I had a new spare one just had to get it on, so it was a bit of a mess 

[953 nut 57,580]

10 hours ago, rjg854 said:

May I suggest putting caps on those protruding bolts or cutting them a bit shorter, your shims just might thank you.  

I would suggest removing them one at a time and running the bolts into the wheel rather than the weight.           

[WHX?? 50,560]

That is a nice tractor ... dandy plow mule fer sure. 

[AlexR 1,208]

7 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I would suggest removing them one at a time and running the bolts into the wheel rather than the weight.           

They are carriage bolts so I can't really do that with them as it needs a washer on the weight side and the square of the carriage bolt fits in the wheel. 

I will probably just cut them a bit shorter. 

[AlexR 1,208]

5 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

That is a nice tractor ... dandy plow mule fer sure. 

Thanks! I have used it to plow the garden, but that isn't much of a comparison to a plow day. Just really glad the rubber grommet split now when I was working on it. And not when everything was hot during the plow day. 

[SylvanLakeWH 27,243]

9 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Pike nuts... for chariots of fire... 

Worked well in Ben Hur...