520h

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Not a bad looking 520H.You'll appreciate that aux.fuel tank.Those Onan's are hogs when it comes to fuel.Haha.Just be careful you don't back into anything.Have fun with your new toy.

[Steve_O 25]

Whx12, Both front tires are pretty well weather checked, and the leaker has a big gash in the side wall.  But tube may serve as a stop gap.

 

If I was to buy new tires, what is recommended assuming primarily winter duty with heavy blower.  Pricey tri-rib, 5-rib, Carlisle snow tires or generic turf tires.  

[Searcher60 209]

Agri-supply has the best tube prices by far. Their tire prices are good also. 

[Ed Kennell 39,036]

3 hours ago, Steve_O said:

 

 

If I was to buy new tires, what is recommended assuming primarily winter duty with heavy blower.  Pricey tri-rib, 5-rib, Carlisle snow tires or generic turf tires.  

These blowers have a mind of their  own when it cones to steering.    Turfs are just not aggressive enough.   A deep  3rib or 5 rib is probably best with a bar tread as a second  choice.   Some also use a chain around the OD of the turf tires with success. 

Edited October 12, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[WHX?? 49,431]

3 hours ago, Steve_O said:

front tires are pretty well weather checked

Yeah mine were too but some cheap tubes were the answer. if the gash is real deep may have to spring for new tires.  Got other horses that needed shoes worse and I can save up for some nice 5 rib V-61's. Plan on going that route when I finish my 2 stage refresh project and get ready to put it on.

I think these are what most guys here are running.

http://www.millertire.com/products/implement-tires/rib-implement-tires/16x6-50-8/16x6-50-8-v61-hd-5-rib-170-60-8-6-ply/

Keep in mind these tires need tubes anyway.

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

10 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

 Another taco bell salute???????

Wheel Horse Ala King, Yum, checked my drawer's, Oop's

[608KEB 795]

I agree with tubing the tires if the weathering is minor. I think you got a excellent  deal.  All the accessories are worth $800.00. 

[ericj 1,578]

3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

These blowers have a mind of their  own when it cones to steering.    Turfs are just not aggressive enough.   A deep  3rib or 5 rib is probably best with a bar tread as a second  choice.   Some also use a chain around the OD of the turf tires with success. 

I respectfully disagree with you Ed on the tires on a snowblower, I don't have a problem with turf tires on my snowblower tractors, but I do on plow tractors. if you angle a plow on a tractor it will push the front end in heavy wet snow. if the blower pushes you just lift the blower a little and put weight on the front end and the tractor will turn where you want it. Not saying that other tires wouldn't be a nice plus and help some, every little bit helps right ? but not totally  necessary good luck

 

 

 

 

eric j

[Ed Kennell 39,036]

I hear ya Eric. I don't have a steering problem on the first pass in new snow when the pressure is equal on the blower.  But after that, the blower tends to keep going toward the wing that is cutting the new snow.  And with my steep driveway and stone road, I have to lift the blower to back out and realign.  Of course when you  lift the blower,  you loose traction on the rear wheels.  I have added wheels to my blower that should help it to track in a straight line, but we haven't had a good snow to test it in for a few years.  Maybe this will be the year.

 

BTW Eric,  we lost the football game last night. 

Edited October 13, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[ericj 1,578]

51 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

But after that, the blower tends to keep going toward the wing that is cutting the new snow.  And with my steep driveway and stone road, I have to lift the blower to back out and realign.  Of course when you  lift the blower,  you loose traction on the rear wheels. 

I don't  have the problem with pull on the 2 stage blower so that makes the difference, and I'm sure the hill and stones makes a difference too. Lifting the that hulking 2 stage blower takes weight off the back tires, that is why I do run chains on my blower tractors. if we get some snow this year I might get to try the single stage blower more. I do remember running a single stage blower on my C120's and having the problem of the blower pulling in on the side of the snow.

 

 

eric j

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,498]

Best of luck with your new machine, it will do the job.

 

Glenn

[Searcher60 209]

If that carb is the emissions carb just like on my 1997, it will probably need a little more than just cleaning. The Nikki emissions carb has an accelerator pump. That accelerator pump needs to work properly. Parts are available from Onan to fix the accelerator pump. 

 

Others will tell you to trash the emissions carb simply because they do not know how to repair it. But, my emissions carb works great now. If your compression gauge was accurate, your compression my be a little high due to carbon build up. Also keep in mind that the Onan book says to take compression readings with the engine warmed up. 

 

 

Edited October 13, 2017 by Searcher60

[Steve_O 25]

It is a '96.  

 

I pulled off the tire with the gash.  It turns out there was a tube in there and it was repairable.   This was good as the tube I had purchased was a 13" misplaced in a 16x6.5-8 box.    Tires are due for replacement, but they are back on and good enough for now. 

 

It  has an emissions carb, with an accelerator pump.     My sense is that it was not getting fuel on the idle circuit.  The accel pump was giving a healthy shot of fuel when the governor eased up (tried to stall w/ no fuel from idle circuit).  The engine would then rev up, running on the accel shot until the governor closed the butterfly and the cycle would repeat.   

 

I ran some sea foam through it and idle improved considerably, but after a while a hint of the hunting at idle returned.   It really does need to be torn down and cleaned.  It's not clear to me whether the idle feed restrictor is just covered with a welch plug or something more difficult to remove/replace.   I'm also not sure if I need a rebuild kit on hand, or if the gaskets will survive disassemble for reuse.  So, sea foam for the short term. 

 

Changed the oil and the transmission fluid.   Needed an easy-out to remove the hydro plug.  There was ATF in there, so I'll need to change again to flush. 

[Searcher60 209]

That carb can be cleaned without removal in most cases. If you remove the top to clean the carb, there is a tiny spring and ball like piece for the accerator circuit that you need to be very careful not to loose as you lift the top off. I use carb/choke cleaner with the little spray stick to clean out the bowl and the jet, and all the tiny holes. You can also check float adjustment. 

Edited October 18, 2017 by Searcher60