520h

[Steve_O 25]

I'm going to check out a well used 520h with a two stage blower tomorrow.  Is there anything in particular I should check for?  

[ericj 1,578]

wiring around the 9 pin and fuse block, if you have a compression tester check both cylinders. If you don't have one CAREFULLY check the exhaust with it running to make sure both cylinders are getting hot. I usually feel the the pipes coming off the exhaust ports. 

the 520 and 2 stage blower is a monster when it comes to throwing snow, don't think I would get rid of mine for love nor money good luck , we like pictures

 

 

 

 

 

 

eric j

[Steve_O 25]

I'll bring an IR temp gun and a compression guage.

What am I looking for at the 9 pin and fuse block?

Edited October 10, 2017 by Steve_O

[Achto 27,866]

1 hour ago, Steve_O said:

What am I looking for at the 9 pin and fuse block?

 Corrosion around the terminals. The 9 pin has been known to have some heat / melting issues after the pins become corroded. The fuse block is also prone to corrosion causing bad contacts. Unplug the nine pin connector & check the condition of the pins if possible. Same with the fuses.

 

With a 2 stage blower a 520 is a great snow moving machine.

[ericj 1,578]

2 hours ago, Steve_O said:

I'll bring an IR temp gun and a compression guage.

What am I looking for at the 9 pin and fuse block?

sorry I missed that, like Achto said above check for heat distortion and discoloration in the 9 pin and the fuse block. I probably wouldn't unplug the 9 pin till after I made it mine and I was ready and prepared for the consequence if it didn't go well

 

 

 

 

eric j 

[Ed Kennell 38,944]

Look for oil leaks around the oil filter.   The block the filter screws into has a history of leaking and blowing the oil across the rear cylinder cooling fins making a gooey mess when the grass sticks to it.         This is one factor that causes the rear cylinder to overheat in these Onans.

Although the 520 has the very good Eaton 1100 hydro, before I buy,  I always test the hydros by hooking the tractor  to a tree and make sure it will spin the tires.

[Searcher60 209]

I'd be very leary of buying any of these latter model tractors with a lot of hours on it. Better to find a low hour cream puff and pay a little more for it than take a chance on a well used one. Parts are just to expensive, and they havea habit of breaking just when you need them the most. 

[roadapples 6,983]

Can't go by hours. Ask @ericj. I have a '94 with 253 hrs. and one rod was in pieces....Got it that way

[Ed Kennell 38,944]

8 hours ago, roadapples said:

Can't go by hours. Ask @ericj. I have a '94 with 253 hrs. and one rod was in pieces....Got it that way

     My 520  and 417 both have over 2000 hours and run strong with no smoke.

[WHX?? 49,364]

All of the above is good advice....How well it was taken care of is a good bargaining chip. If in doubt Steve take lots of pics and report back.

[Searcher60 209]

If hours are not important, then why is it that my 311 hr. 97' 520H will probably bring double or more what a 2000hr machine will bring? Can you even sell a 2000 hours machine? 

 

Also, the deck will show far more wear on the actual shell on a well used high hour machine. When the hours are high, the steering and trans and everything else is loose. You simply cannot beat a low hour machine. 

 

Some people in here just want to argue. You can't buy common sense.

 

 

 

 

Edited October 11, 2017 by Searcher60

[Ed Kennell 38,944]

2 hours ago, Searcher60 said:

 

 

Some people in here just want to argue.

 

 

 

 

 

                         No argument from me on that.

[roadapples 6,983]

This has nothing to do with common sense. A tractor can have low hrs. and look good and still be junk internally. Not looking for an argument just saying do your homework...

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

1 hour ago, roadapples said:

This has nothing to do with common sense. A tractor can have low hrs. and look good and still be junk internally. Not looking for an argument just saying do your homework...

I've bought and sold used cars,trucks,motorcycles,lawn equipment,construction equipment,farm equipment all my life.I've seen some low hour,low mileage,shiny paint equipment that was not mechanically maintained and it was pure crap.Have seen high hour/high mileage equipment that had regular maintenance worn paint from lots of use and this is the equipment I would prefer.Also equipment that has lived outdoors it's entire life presents  a whole other bunch of problems.

[WHX?? 49,364]

58 minutes ago, Pollack Pete said:

mechanically maintained

Key words there Pete... a tractor with one hour on it can be junk if oil was never put in .... what's that State Farm jingle??? ...yup we've seen that.

I don't think anyone is trying to argue here.. just guys stating the fact that low hour tractors aren't any better than high hour ones if they haven't been taken care of and high hour tractor can be nice if they were taken care of .

[Searcher60 209]

1 hour ago, Pollack Pete said:

I've bought and sold used cars,trucks,motorcycles,lawn equipment,construction equipment,farm equipment all my life.I've seen some low hour,low mileage,shiny paint equipment that was not mechanically maintained and it was pure crap.Have seen high hour/high mileage equipment that had regular maintenance worn paint from lots of use and this is the equipment I would prefer.Also equipment that has lived outdoors it's entire life presents  a whole other bunch of problems.

 

Say what you want, but you cannot change the truth. The reason low mileage/ low hour equipment commands higher prices is because the odds of having issues are far less than higher use. You simply cannot  change was is true.

 

Imagine trying to tell your wife, son, or daughter that you are going to purchase them a high milege, worn out vehicle, because they are better and more reliable.

 

You people try to distort what is real and true. Tell me, why do low mileage/low hour vehicles command far greater prices? 

 

As as far as Wheel Horse goes, I've had quite a few. Most need work and are problematic, even my 1997 models. However, the older, well worn ones seem to need more expensive repairs than the newer ones. 

 

Sober up, quit being drunk on ignorance and stupidity. I stand by my original post of buying a low hour cream puff. If you are not familiar with Wheel Horse tractors, you better take someone with you who is. That is the best advice for a newbie. And, I can tell if a 520H has 200 or 700 hours on it just by looking it over. 

[Steve_O 25]

Seller was asking $800 for 520h w/ 44"  blower, basically unused plow, f/r wheel weights, chains, aux fuel tank, 9/17 battery, and cab (minus one door).  

 

600 hrs and change. Compression 127/125 psi.

 

The bad:

One tire doesn't hold air for more than 2 min.  Doesn't run on idle circuit (bounces off governor).   Some wire-nuts on the electronics (someone's been in there).  Has been exposed to elements.. has sat unused for years. 

 

Hydro was low.   Spins the tires after filling.   

 

Need to print off the manuals.

Fwd is not fully engaging hydro cam.  I'm guessing I need to lengthen the tie rod between motion control arm and brake pivot.

Edited October 11, 2017 by Steve_O

[ericj 1,578]

don't sound like a bad deal, I personally don't think you will go wrong at the price if you are capable of doing some of the repairs your self that need done. at that price you are almost buying the attachments and getting a free tractor. there has been several 2 stage blowers listed in my area in the $ 650.00 range and they have disappeared, so either they were sold or the add was pulled, this is just my opion and you know what they say about them they are like a body part that everybody has 

 

 

 

 

 

eric j 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

Wow, i feel the East Coast stress vibrating in my recliner, oh that was dinner, Yeah Thats Big Red Fred for ya

[Searcher60 209]

Looks like a 1996 anniversary edition. At that price buy it, that is low hours, NOW! But, if you have to pay someone to do the repairs, it's going to cost you.

 

A good 48" deck is going to cost you.

Edited October 12, 2017 by Searcher60

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

@roadapples Some day, BRF will own a 520H & i wiil boast a TaT on my Hat Stating it, Yes I'm Bad ;-( Red Neck Fred, come on Big Show

[ohiofarmer 3,277]

10 hours ago, Big_Red_Fred said:

Wow, i feel the East Coast stress vibrating in my recliner, oh that was dinner, Yeah Thats Big Red Fred for ya

 Another taco bell salute???????

[Steve_O 25]

Searcher - I bought it yesterday AM.  I figured the attachments were worth more than the asking price, if there was a major issue with the tractor.  But I'm not finding any major issue, just some neglect.

 

Need to buy some front tires, clean carb, change fluids.  See where I am from there.

 

[EricF 589]

If the hydro motion lever isn't getting the cam action to move all the way to full forward range, it's probably a minor adjustment. Raise the seat and inspect the cam assembly -- you may find that the friction bolt is loose, which will allow the cam to wobble up and down instead of being forced to travel fully forward/backward. Clean it and snug it down so the motion lever has enough resistance to say put on rough ground, and it's likely to be fine. Check the other fasteners on the cam, but the culprit is usually the big friction bolt in the middle. It's also a good idea to remove the access plates over the center tunnel and below the throttle/choke levers to clean the inevitable gunk out of that area. You'll find more pivots for the control levers under there. After cleaning, lightly oil the pivots with a drop or two of 30-weight oil and wipe the excess away. Your controls will start working like new.

 

I'd replace those wire nuts with proper crimp-on terminals along the way... mostly just some TLC and she'll be back to work!

[WHX?? 49,364]

Just noticed the front weights Steve - those aren't cheap and if you can find them. I think you did ok.  Good luck with her and keep us posted

BTW if the rubber is ok tires can be tubed just did all four on mine for under 50.