New to tractor restoration.

[Noobwheelhorseguy 5]

Howdy everyone,

Im new to tractor restoration and my first restoration project i want to do is my Wheel Horse D-200. I have no clue where to start on the project and was wondering if any of you had any pointers for a beginner restorer.

 The picture is my D-200 as it sits now more or less.

[daveoman1966 3,751]

First off, make your selection:  Coors, Bud, Iron City....  

Second... Ice for the cooler.  

[oliver2-44 9,732]

it all depends on what your definition of Restoration is?

Does it need any mechanical engine or transmission overhaul due to it not running properly or worn out?

Does it need worn steering and linkage areas or bushings replaced

Does it need electrical rewiring or just a little contact cleaning and heat shrink

Appearance

Some like to paint them to better than new prefection

Some paint them as workers

Some like the aged "Patina" look and just give the sheet metal a work over with rubbing compound and wax

Some wet sand them and give them a coat of clearcoat to preserve them.

 

So tell us what you want this tractor to be (worker or trailer queen) and look like (gently worn, shiny patina or trailer queen new paint)

[Noobwheelhorseguy 5]

I would like it to look half decent and still be able to get a little dirty for plowing snow and cutting grass. I want it to be repainted but still a work horse if you know what i mean. but everything mechanically works and some wiring need to be touched up but nothing major.

Edited September 28, 2017 by Noobwheelhorseguy

[pacer 3,169]

I would also ask.....

What are your skills and what do you have in the way of tools/equipment? For instance, have you done any painting, what equip do you have to do paint - compressor, paint gun, etc? Necessary tooling to remove pieces? How much time can you devote to this? etc, etc?

 

From your picture the tractor looks pretty darn good as is, I think I would correct the few minor problems, change fluids/filters, grease everything and use it for a period of time and just get to know it - and love it! (I have 3 of the "Big D's", they are workers!!)

[KC9KAS 4,741]

@Noobwheelhorseguy  to 

[Dan693 510]

I would start by not starting a restoration. Get it fully functioning mechanically and use it for a while and think about it.

Those babies are pretty complicated so even a mid-level resto will involve a huge amount of time and resources not to mention it will be staring at you in pieces around your shop for the next year or so.

 

It's never good to look back and say.....I should have just left it alone.

[SylvanLakeWH 25,535]

[AMC RULES 37,130]

 

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

I agree with what others here have said.If it ain't broke,don't fix it.I have several projects torn apart here in my shop that have been like that for years now.Will I ever get to them? Hope so.Someday? Do the repairs to make it dependable.When you buy another Wheel Horse......guarantee you will....Then do your restoration on the D200.Have fun with your new toy. 

[953 nut 55,188]

8 hours ago, Noobwheelhorseguy said:

I would like it to look half decent and still be able to get a little dirty for plowing snow and cutting grass. I want it to be repainted but still a work horse if you know what i mean. but everything mechanically works and some wiring need to be touched up but nothing major.

       You could begin the small repairs like replacing defective wiring and cleaning and tightening anything that needs it now. Presuming you have a warm place to work you could remove some sheet metal for sanding and repainting a little at a time in the winter without making it inoperable. Once the threat of snow is gone remove the painted pieces and sand and paint the rest. That should get it looking like new by spring mowing season.

Edited September 28, 2017 by 953 nut
fat finger

[Retired Wrencher 5,450]

Noobwheel-horseguy   I think if going to be a worker Just clean everything so you see if any leaks. Then put on necessary parts on. Then either buff out the paint or you Marvel on to stop the rusting. Buffing will put some shine on it. Again as a worker it is function not looks is what you need. Just my

Edited September 28, 2017 by Retierd Wrencher

[ohiofarmer 3,265]

 Before you even try to tear one apart for a full resto, consider doing a wet sand and clear coat. rustoleum.   2X clear is what I use and the outstanding thing about this stuff is it will not crinkle or pull existing paint from your horse. you can also use it to paint over newly applied Rustoleum paints without issue, but it will pull and crinkle some of the other paints out there.

Get a practice panel like this old seat pan to try out and see how you like it before you even think about doing your D-Series!

The first three pictures show the Seat pan before paint. i sanded the pan with 600 grit just enough to smooth it a bit use plenty of water and soap to provide lubrication for your paper. Sand lightly, and then switch to 1200 If you look closely at the first picture, you can see the left side has more color and is smooth. What is surprising is how much brown rust goes away and the paint color comes back. It is motivating to see the true color come through when it is wet...........Then you put rustconverter on the metal to pickle the rust pits and they will turn dark blue/black as shown in the third picture. I keep the surface wet and then rinse it thoroughly and dry . Use the sun or a hair dryer to get it dry ASAP.

 

 The picture with the paint can is Rustoleum Matte 2x clear. Use matte for 4 or 5 coats as it dries very fast and recoat in 15 minutes. It also does not run very easily. You can sand the stuff a bit with 1000 and use heavy buffing compound applied by hand to get a very smooth finish or take it a bit farther The last picture is the clear coat wet sanded using 1000 grit followed with 2000 grit and buffed. The color just pops right at you and the stuff looks nice and deep. pictures really do not do it justice. The cool stuff about rustoleum is that it comes in Matte, Semigloss, or Gloss. You can use the Matte to build the paint film and then finish it off with semi or high gloss [which is much harder to work with.]

 

  BTW, I have a 121-8 that is taken apart for new paint, and I wish I had done it this way instead. With clear, you can work on one panel at a time because the paint that is already on the tractor is your color coat. If you scratch the paint, repairs are easy I am sure that this system is not for everyone, but I am having some fun with it

Edited September 28, 2017 by ohiofarmer

[Sarge 3,463]

At the current condition of your D - I'd start with a few of the mechanical issues they had . Biggest problem is that hydro pump coupling at the engine's flywheel . Once it gets worn it can strip it's teeth and eat the pump shaft's teeth off while doing it - there are a ton of documented ways to repair them and I just went through this with my own D-180 . The rear axle differential case bolts can shear off on the early models and actually crack the trans case - that one is a big headache due to how the hydraulic line manifold is built - not to mention how everything is mounted in a pretty tight space back there . You probably need to go through the Ross steering box and the main steering idler arm - both are easily upgraded with bushings and bearings . It's far easier to rebuild these parts now before there is a failure that can cause having to hunt down replacement used parts that will still need to be rebuilt/upgraded . Put the bearing and seal kit upgrades on the Ross and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to steer in comparison to the stock setup with only a thrust washer to take the load - that one upgrade is a big change .

 

Consider what your skill level is - there is always a ton of help here and becoming a member here with a subscription allows you to upload plenty of photos when you need that help . It also keeps the group supported as this site is so loaded with data and the folks that keep it going . Without this resource we'd all be quite lost...

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/

 

Welcome aboard , nice looking D and it's great to see more new people coming in here that want to save these machines - and use them for what they were built for ...

 

Sarge

[Gilford wh 21]

Take lots of pictures before you take it apart. So you know how to put it back together