9 pin connectors????

[Searcher60 209]

My recently acquired 520H was missing the 9 pin connector when it was delivered. So, I purchased several new 9 pin connectors to replace the missing one on my 520H. The replacement connectors do not seem to have pins that are as substantial as the ones from the original 9 pin plugs. The only information I can find says that these replacement connectors (OEM) are rated for a maximum of 17 amps. The 2 headlights which run thru the 9 pin connectors draw over 4 amps total by themselves. Charging the battery and running the ignition coil, plus headlights and tailites, plus gauges and dash lights, how many amps?

 

Also, I have spoken to Molex. Apparently, they do not make a connector of this style that is rated for more than 20 amps. I know, AMP made the original, but they do not make one either, apparently. 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2017 by Searcher60

[Achto 27,515]

I've looked at the 9 pin on my 520 and see things that I don't like, biggest thing that I don't like is that they are not water tight. The future plan with mine is to change it to a Deutsch connector. These can be obtained for use with 12ga+ wire, plus they are water resistant. A little tip when using a Deutsch connector - instead of buying the special crimper for the pins, I prefer to solder the pins onto the wires.

Edited August 29, 2017 by Achto

[Achto 27,515]

I believe that this plug combo would suit our 520 9 pin needs quite nicely.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Deutsch-Connector-J1939-9pin-Connector/32704851404.html?spm=2114.search0304.4.8.ch1zZb

[rmaynard 15,431]

The 9-pin connectors that I sell are the same as the OEM'S. They worked fine for 30 years, these should work just as long.

[Searcher60 209]

3 hours ago, rmaynard said:

The 9-pin connectors that I sell are the same as the OEM'S. They worked fine for 30 years, these should work just as long.

 

I am not out to criticize your parts or you in any way. However, the pins that came with your connectors do not appear to match the pins in the pics in the original connector pictured in the link below. The pins in the pics are a different design, and the pin metal appears much thicker. Check it out and let me know. I just do not want to do the job again. I am mostly concerned about the 2 larger wires and the solenoid wire. No offense intended. 

 

 

[N3PUY 1,031]

I think I got these from eBay.

 

 

[Searcher60 209]

Does you have your original pins and connector? 

[KC9KAS 4,741]

4 hours ago, Achto said:

I believe that this plug combo would suit our 520 9 pin needs quite nicely.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Deutsch-Connector-J1939-9pin-Connector/32704851404.html?spm=2114.search0304.4.8.ch1zZb

Those connectors look like they would do the trick, and they are reasonably priced even with shipping.....but you better not be in a hurry....12--20 days shipping!

[rmaynard 15,431]

It appears as though your 520-H does not have an original plug. I have sold 100's of these plugs and they have always been a direct fit for the original OEM plug.

[Searcher60 209]

2 hours ago, rmaynard said:

It appears as though your 520-H does not have an original plug. I have sold 100's of these plugs and they have always been a direct fit for the original OEM plug.

 

Do you sell gold or heavy duty pins for these plugs?

[rmaynard 15,431]

No, only the OEM style. If you want gold, contact @Cable. He may have some.

[k2wilson 41]

A previous owner of my '97  520H used this method to eliminate the 9 pin connector. Not the way I would have done it, but I've had no issues at all with it.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

3 hours ago, k2wilson said:

A previous owner of my '97  520H used this method to eliminate the 9 pin connector. Not the way I would have done it, but I've had no issues at all with it.

That's pretty much what I do except I use "bullet" connectors then taped off to keep out moisture/dust ect, and it also keeps the harness plug and play, Jeff.

[doc724 925]

Guys, I don't want to rain on your parade (no pun intended) but moisture is not the primary culprit here.  It is heat.  Sealed connectors came into widespread use because of low voltage/currents could not break thru the oxide on the connectors.  A proper connector has a gas (not gasoline) tight seal at the interface between the two parts.  The sliding motion of assembly scrapes the oxide from the connector surface and gives a bare zinc mating surface.  For low currents, gold is way better since gold does not oxidize.  On the Onan WH applications, that connector sits real close to the rear cylinder and it gets real hot.  The heat will cause the connector male/female parts to relax (lose compression) and pretty soon you have none at all.  When that happens you will get arcing between the male/female parts and now the connector housing will melt and you have a mess. 

 

It is not just an Onan problem.  I recently had to replace the connectors to the voltage regulator on my C141.  The first sign of trouble was that the connector body was melted.  A couple of weeks ago, I peeked under there and i could actually see the sparks jumping between the two terminals.  So I bit the bullet and ordered new terminals, connector bodies, and a regulator just for good measure.  Of course this machine is almost 40 years old so some failure is expected. 

 

Deutsch Connectors are great products.  Caterpillar uses them almost exclusively and you know what kind of crappy environments their machines have to work in.  Twenty years from now, they may need replacing, but many of us will not be around either

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

If you look closely at my pic I have my new connections up next to the battery/fuse box area to help with the heat issue as well, but I like to wash my s down and water/moisture will eventually get in the connections, plus the last 2 I rescued were kept outside uncovered, Jeff.

[doc724 925]

One of the RS vendors, I think it is Glen Petit, makes covers that go on the fuse blocks to keep out water, grass clippings etc. 

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Post #3 here...

 

[Searcher60 209]

5 hours ago, doc724 said:

Guys, I don't want to rain on your parade (no pun intended) but moisture is not the primary culprit here.  It is heat.  Sealed connectors came into widespread use because of low voltage/currents could not break thru the oxide on the connectors.  A proper connector has a gas (not gasoline) tight seal at the interface between the two parts.  The sliding motion of assembly scrapes the oxide from the connector surface and gives a bare zinc mating surface.  For low currents, gold is way better since gold does not oxidize.  On the Onan WH applications, that connector sits real close to the rear cylinder and it gets real hot.  The heat will cause the connector male/female parts to relax (lose compression) and pretty soon you have none at all.  When that happens you will get arcing between the male/female parts and now the connector housing will melt and you have a mess. 

 

It is not just an Onan problem.  I recently had to replace the connectors to the voltage regulator on my C141.  The first sign of trouble was that the connector body was melted.  A couple of weeks ago, I peeked under there and i could actually see the sparks jumping between the two terminals.  So I bit the bullet and ordered new terminals, connector bodies, and a regulator just for good measure.  Of course this machine is almost 40 years old so some failure is expected. 

 

Deutsch Connectors are great products.  Caterpillar uses them almost exclusively and you know what kind of crappy environments their machines have to work in.  Twenty years from now, they may need replacing, but many of us will not be around either

 

 

 

No disrespect intended. I believe that heat is the main problem here also. However, since only 2-3 of the connections burn, I think the problem may be that the connector is not sized for the load in those 2-3 wires creating the overload and heat from the overload. The only info i could find on the replacement connector that I used was that it was rated for 17 amps. Not sure this is enough as mine is a 20 amp stator. Due to the tractor harness being shorter after the meltdown, I had to relocate the connector up by the fuse box. i believe the heat coming from the engine fan outlet makes the new location even hoter than the old location on the flywheel side next to the relay. I wish there was a substancially heavier duty 9 pin connector. Molex did have a 20 amp, but, I went ahead and used the AMP. 

[billrok 1]

The absolute best 9 pin connector with leads is available from Mcmaster Carr. Item #9552T91,  Item name is:  Compact Push-In Signal/Power Connector Set.  Also order the Crimp on butt splices with heat shrink tubing:  #7949K41.

[Searcher60 209]

Sorry, but the 9 amp rating with 16ga. wire will not handle the load in the red wire and possibly a few others in the original harness. 

 

 

[cleat 5,861]

Get the charge wire out of the 9 pin and run it directly to the starter solenoid battery cable with an inline 30A fuse.

 

That gets the heavy current out of the 9 pin.

 

[Razorback 1,035]

2 minutes ago, cleat said:

Get the charge wire out of the 9 pin and run it directly to the starter solenoid battery cable with an inline 30A fuse.

 

That gets the heavy current out of the 9 pin.

 

That is a great suggestion! Thank you!

[kwalshy 229]

Change headlights to LED, that will cut down amp draw

[cleat 5,861]

Yes, once the charge cct is out of the 9 pin then the next highest power user is the headlights so a switch to LED would fix that.

 

After that all you have is the ignition circuit, gauges, indicators etc that really draw very little.

 

You have the start solenoid but that is only in short bursts so that should not create too much heat.

 

 

[squonk 41,040]

5 holI like Polaris connectors. I get a couple of 5 hole inline models for the correct wire size  and a little tape. They aren't cheap but easy, safe and weathertite. I just tape down the plugs to secure them.

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by squonk