mikeeyre74 289 #1 Posted August 19, 2017 In the final phases of my freshening up of the 522XI, and I took the carburetor apart to clean it out and try to get rid of the rough running issues. After we assembly, it started right up and ran pretty good, idols nice and friends at wide-open throttle OK, but has a bit of a snort, pop & backfiring audio track, and Rich running condition… You can smell the gas just blasting out the exhaust. The only adjustment on the carburetor is the low speed idle screw, and the idle speed jet. Both of those things are fine… It's the high-end that I believe is the issue. How do you adjust for this? Or, if that's not the question, why is it running so rich and popping? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,576 #2 Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) What engine is in that? If it is the vtwin Kohler, i have found that when you pull the top off the carburetor there is a small tube(cant remember the name right away) that has very small o rings on it. These o-rings go bad and it sucks air and runs like crap. Only way to het them is in a carb kit. Not sure thats your issue but hope this might help. Ill try and find a picture Edited August 19, 2017 by 19richie66 Added picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #3 Posted August 19, 2017 Kohler Command V Twins are notorious for bad ignition coils, I just had to replaced both of them on my CH22. Use a spark tester to see if both cylinders are firing as they should. Here's a good video Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #4 Posted August 19, 2017 My goodness, but the carb rebuild kits for these are expensive and you don't even get much for your money! Rats... I'll have to bite the bullet and do this thing I guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #5 Posted August 21, 2017 So this is the carburetor on my machine, but this number "24 053" doesn't seem to exist in any catalogs or online that I can find? There are several online and eBay etc. "24 737" that look like exactly the right thing… and they are listed for use in a CH22. What gives with the different number? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,576 #6 Posted August 21, 2017 Interested to see what you find. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #7 Posted September 8, 2017 Took it back apart and this time rememberes to pull the main jet from underneath the solenoid. It runs better now, not quite so rich, but still the backfiring persists. https://flic.kr/p/YiddvD If that doesn't show as a video up there, here's a link instead. Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,771 #8 Posted September 8, 2017 Mike, my 522xi runs rich too. I've been completely through the fuel system but not tore into the carb. I have nothing to add or help but I hope you find out more and share! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #9 Posted September 9, 2017 And yours pops like that, too? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,771 #10 Posted September 9, 2017 My 264H runs rich and pops sometimes on shutoff but the 522xi never does. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #11 Posted September 9, 2017 See the 24 053 43 first shows up on page 5.2 Suspect this manual would be easier to follow in printed form. (Two consecutive pages side by side) Click on the picture. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shallowwatersailor 3,214 #12 Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) 14 hours ago, DennisThornton said: Mike, my 522xi runs rich too. I've been completely through the fuel system but not tore into the carb. I have nothing to add or help but I hope you find out more and share! Dennis, for your 264H try what I do for my two gas engine 5xi. I read somewhere years ago that the Kohler CH has a tendency to run on when shutoff. Probably the early emission standards for small gas engines is the reason. Even after idling down they will sometimes backfire which is not good for the muffler. The cure was to advance the throttle simultaneously while turning the ignition off. You essentially flood the engine. This always works for me. Edited September 9, 2017 by shallowwatersailor 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,771 #13 Posted September 9, 2017 12 hours ago, gwest_ca said: See the 24 053 43 first shows up on page 5.2 Suspect this manual would be easier to follow in printed form. (Two consecutive pages side by side) Click on the picture. Garry All the manuals that I have I do NOT think I've EVEN seen this! I've told you several times and I think it is generally known here but once again: You're the best! Isn't he? Don't blush but seriously, you are a major asset here on this forum, worth the price of admission alone! And I'm sure that some folks here don't know that you are actively doing the same on YaHoo! Thanks for all your effortS! This forum, heck the whole Wheel Horse following would not be the same without you! SERIOUSLY! THANK YOU! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #14 Posted September 10, 2017 And what's the only one NOT in that book? That's right, mine! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #15 Posted September 10, 2017 See the 24 053 43 first shows up on page 5.2 to 5.8 The carb numbers can be on either side of the page. Also noticed a complete carb is named a carb kit in Kohler language. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #16 Posted September 10, 2017 You are right! Although, this shows you the bits and pieces inside the carburetor, it isn't much help when it comes to diagnosing an issue. But it is a foot in the door. That's good. My two pack of spark testers should be arriving early this coming week, so I'll see with those things show me. That video that was posted above by another member was informative! It would explain the rich running condition and popping problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243 #17 Posted September 10, 2017 In case you don't have it Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Searcher60 209 #18 Posted September 10, 2017 This looks to be an easy problem to fix, but not cheap. The accelerator pump diaphragm has a hole in it. The engine sucks fuel thru the hole in the pump diaphragm into the engine causing it to run rich. Oh, is this another pissing contest? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #19 Posted September 11, 2017 Can I diagnose this better by using an external gravity feed fuel tank and just not using the fuel pump? If that fixed my problem, will that point towards the fuel pump being my issue like mentioned just above? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #20 Posted September 11, 2017 In either case, my spark tester it came in a little bit early, and arrived this morning in the mail. I just installed them and it took this video. The first bulb that you see is the left side bank, and is pretty much a steady glow. When I move around to the other side of the tractor and video the right-hand bank, then you can see that it flickers quite a bit. I suspect, based on what I know now from seeing the video that was posted previous to this, that this coil is shot. It also doesn't do it immediately but only after a few minutes of warm-up time. Then it backfires more and more. I will order a coil and install it. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #21 Posted September 14, 2017 I have another gheead going where I already mentioned this, but figured I should mention it here in case you guys are following along… I got the engine shroud off and found that there is one original coil and one replacement coil underneath the hood. The resistance values on the coils according to the Kohler manual are all correct. I did find the replacement coil had one wire that was not properly connected, it was jammed between the spade connector and the insulator, not properly connected on the spade connector itself. here I've pulled it off, but this is sort of how it was attached: It wasn't connected properly, it was just kind of being held down there by the insulation around the spade connector. Also, the airgap is supposed to be measuring .011 to .013 of an inch on the coils, but it was measuring and only .005 inch. The engine manual says that this is a critical measurement, but… Could it be that easy? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
