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By Tenday
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
notes:
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
-seat switch
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?
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By Rollo416H
I'm new here, but I have years and miles of dealing with electrical issues with my 1997 416H, engine Onan P216G (I am the only owner) . Problem description: the start circuit turns the starter over fine, but no spark at the plugs or the coil sockets by spark tester. The ignition trigger tests good by connecting a test light to the coil positive and and the ignition trigger negative lead, plenty of light flash from the test light in unison with the engine turning over. So, I conclude the ignition trigger, replaced 3/18/2021 along with the coil is good. I have followed the "Demystification" wiring diagram in detail and there is 12V at the coil positive terminal, wiriing is solid (for now), all those damn safety switches, key switch, and relays work too. I conclude that the coil is bad since the primary side tests 3.1 OHM and the secondary tests infinite OHMS (1. displayed on multimeter). Two coils (Onan part# 166-0820) have NEW dates of 3/2021 and 8/2021, and yes both have the same test results mentioned. Infinite OHMs to me means the coil windings are broken. The most recent coil came from Onanparts.com and tested as mentioned above when it arrived. Onanparts won't take anything back! There are a lot of coils on ebay and various suppliers from China. Maybe good, maybe bad, who can tell? And most suppliers won't accept returned electrical parts. Please help: What are good test readings for a GOOD coil (primary and secondary). Who do you recommend as a reliable supplier for a new coil?
Thanks for any help!
Rollo416H
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By Don66
I have a 1978 Wheel Horse 8 speed tractor,Kohler 321 engine. I've been working on restoration, finally got the mower deck finished and installed. Before this, the engine was easy to start and ran well. Yesterday it would not start with ignition key, would not even turn over, so I jumped it with a screwdriver between cylinoid and battery. The engine started and ran about 10 seconds and died. Now I get no spark and the engine won't fire off. I checked the wiring and everything seems to be connected and without damage. I don't have test equipment available so I'm stumped at what went wrong. Any suggestions?
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By DHack
Hello,
My first Wheel Horse project and new to this form. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I purchased older farm house and this gem was negotiated as part of the deal.
I believe I have a ~1962/1963 Rounded hood Wheel Horse with Tecumseh engine.
Can anyone determine the model / Year?
Got this running with new carbonator and basic tune-up, but now not getting any spark.
I am not sure how the points/elec ignition is supposed to work but not getting any voltage reading (.02V) when cranking. Fuse is good, but not sure about resister/capacitors.
Seems like maybe coil within flywheel could bad, but not sure how to get the fly wheel off to check this further.
Anyone have seen similar issue that would help me troubleshoot further?
I'm thinking of putting in a replacement engine if anyone could send me info related to what would work for a replacement?
Serial Number below dash is 62-12492
There are two tags on the engine
Tag above starter (SBH-169C 4313F)
Tag on front of engine (SBH-169B 2133F)
Thanks
Dan
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By Muddyfeet
BeOk first off I have a older 80 400 series . Was my father's and I am attached to the old lady.. it Was running ok..
This year after a year outside it just will not start. I am Not a mechanic so working blind.
I have the seat switch bypassed, also the PTO saftey switch. Replaced a lot of little parts,.Don't know if there is something else . so.. history aside.. cranks no start.. using a test light.love my test light.. fixed a lot on some older engines with this.. anyway. Test light not meter. I get power to the points. Power. To the + end of the coil.. a flashing on the neg side of the coil when cranking.. I do get power after cranking on the neg end of the coil.. the two posts not where the spark plugs wires come out.. I do see A white spark seen and heard at the points when cranking and if I pull the points apart when not cranking .. using test light or inline spark plugs test nothing. have not done the pull plug and ground to see.. but using test light I put in on the cable no light.. no light on the coil tower either.. I replaced the coil, condensor and points like 8 years ago I think.. it was hard to start and I was using the manual..
So no spark if power to the coil but nothing out equals bad coil right?? Well the local shops quote for 280 for a coil was a shock. . but looked online hard to find but a little less..
Cannot rember what I spent before..
So worth buying a coil and if so may as well replace points and condensor at same time?? Am I missing something?? Got power going into this and nothing out as I can see.. but heck what to I know..
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