Electric Clutch

[D Day 0]

   I've had several Wheel Horses but this is the first electric clutch. Got it from a fellow here in IN that has many WH parts. Had to replace it this spring along with many other parts this summer. Question is: Can the clutch be wired backwards? It seems like the battery is draining much too fast and I'm wondering if it is even charging (or does it even do that)? Lots to learn!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

Welcome to the forum

What are the model and serial numbers for the tractor?

What is the model and spec number off the engine?

With those we should be able to determine what charging system you have?

If the clutch works it has to be wired correctly.

Do you have a hand-held voltmeter for testing purposes?

 

Garry

[953 nut 55,005]

       With any electrical problem the first step is to have the battery load tested. Also, clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds. If the voltage regulator is the aluminum bodied type be sure to remove it, clean the mounting point and tighten it down to ensure a good ground.

As Garry said, we could use a bit more information about the engine and tractor to help you correct the problem.

[D Day 0]

   I had started another post not realizing there were responses to this (my first) post. I'm still learning my way around the website. My recent was as follows:

  

   I'm new to the group. I'm 95% sure I have an early 70's era C-160. The Model # is 1 7285, Code # 472483. It has a Kohler 16 hp, Model K341 Serial # 2534506743, Spec # 71179. Will post pics later. It was stored in a shed for many years after the ladies husband died. It is in great shape with various minor problems. I had to replace the electric clutch this spring. There were just two red wires coming from it. My question is: Can it be wired backwards or is either direction fine? I had a problem with the battery (brand new) holding a charge and found that it had a bad cell. Would've that been caused by the wiring? And yes, I have a volt-meter.

   And does anyone have a place I can get a muffler cheaper than $250? I about croaked when the local WH dealer told me that. She pre-warned me. Lol

Edited August 10, 2017 by D Day
More info.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

I'm stumped on the tractor model number 1-7285.

The 1973 16hp Auto model 1-0440 used an electric clutch.

The K341-71179 with serial 2534506743 is a service replacement engine made in 1995 so obviously a replacement.

 

The 472483 looks like a 1968 serial number which makes me think the model number should be 1-7235 which also used an electric clutch.

Garry

[pfrederi 17,635]

a bad cell is a production issue not likely caused by your wiring.  You migt try using a test light to see if there is a current draw (short) when the switch is off,  The electric PTO will work wired either way.

[D Day 0]

   I have verified that my tractor is a 1968 Electro 12 with a Model # of 7235. I'm still having battery issues in such that I put a new battery in and mow about 10 times before the electric clutch shuts down. Would this be an indication that the rectifier is not working? And how can I check it? Thanks for any help. This is getting frustrating. I love this tractor. Thanks

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,026]

This service bulletin came out not long after the 10 amp alternator system was introduced. Click on the picture and download from there

Garry

[953 nut 55,005]

8 hours ago, D Day said:

Would this be an indication that the rectifier is not working? And how can I check it?

If you have a volt meter take a reading of the battery voltage at rest, should be about 12 volts DC. Now start the engine and bring it up to near full throttle and take a voltage reading at the battery, should be about 14 volts DC.

If the running reading is not higher than the at rest reading then go to the AC scale and read the voltage between the two wires coming fro the engine to the regulator/rectifier, should be about 30 to 36 volts AC. If this voltage is good then switch back to DC volts and see what you have for voltage on the terminal going to the ignition switch, should be about 14 volts DC.

Let us know what you find and we can suggest a next step.

[pfrederi 17,635]

The 10 amp system will run the electric PTO easily  they only draw about 5 amps.  However add in head lights  and an ignition system and you are probably in a net loss situation but it will still run along time before the battery is exhausted. Charger/Electros came with a variety of ignition systems (and many were changer out over the years)...Does your spark plug wire come from a small can like coil (if so Battery ignition)  if it comes from a triangular shaped coil mounted on the engine shroud you have breakerless and if the wire just comes out from under the engine shroud you have magneto.  Magneto and breakerless use no electricity so they may even break even with lights and Electric PTO.  If you want to mow (or blow snow) after dark and have a battery ignition you may have an issue for long periods of use. You could swap out for LED lights and probably be OK

[rjg854 11,340]

Would I have anything to worry about with a '73  16 auto with an electric clutch for snow blowing this upcoming winter, I do a lot of my snow moving work when its dark,  but I do have led bulbs. 

[pfrederi 17,635]

18 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

Would I have anything to worry about with a '73  16 auto with an electric clutch for snow blowing this upcoming winter, I do a lot of my snow moving work when its dark,  but I do have led bulbs. 

 

 

You have to do some math.  Figure 5 amps for the Electric PTO then what ever your lights draw.  I have found battery ignitions draw 1-3 amps. I really need to do a better test on ignition draw.  So far all I do is look at the amp meter engine off switch on  the turn it so points close an see what the amp meter reads.  It is a very ...very rough approximation 

 

(I hardly ever ever move snow in the dark!!!  And never never cut grass after sunset..

Edited July 25, 2018 by pfrederi

[953 nut 55,005]

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

The 10 amp system will run the electric PTO easily  they only draw about 5 amps.

Paul, I haven't used a separate amp meter on the electric clutch but on my GT-14 the charging rate at start up is 10 Amps and when I engage the PTO it will go to Zero. It has the trigger ignition so no draw there, but if the lights are turned on along with the clutch it shows about a 7 amp discharge. I am tempted to replace the electric clutch which only runs the pump for the loader with a manual one.

[rjg854 11,340]

I am not retired yet, and there's limited hours that time of year,  so you gotta do it when you can. With a quarter mile drive, I've got to stay on top of things. 

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread, now back to your regular scheduled station.

[pfrederi 17,635]

14 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Paul, I haven't used a separate amp meter on the electric clutch but on my GT-14 the charging rate at start up is 10 Amps and when I engage the PTO it will go to Zero. It has the trigger ignition so no draw there, but if the lights are turned on along with the clutch it shows about a 7 amp discharge. I am tempted to replace the electric clutch which only runs the pump for the loader with a manual one.

 

I based the 5+/- based on the C175 running my sweepster...Who knows how accurate the ammeters are on the tractors.  Guess i should get out my low voltage test kit and see what it really draws  i tested it by turning the engine off and then getting it to center on the ammeter (points open) then engage the clutch..there was a spike but it settles about halfway between zero and 10...but again when was the ammeter calibrated

 

7 amp discharge what kind of lights are you running??  The sealed beams on my newer units are 35 watts about 3 amps each... do not know what tail lights draw...neither do i know what the 1156 bulbs in the Chargers draw....

 

Anyway I do not work very long after dark... Retirement is a GOOD thing!!!!

 

My electric PTOs are all up in the shed  but you have piqued my curiosity may have to get one down and test it!!!

As to replacing it with a manual i am all for it...i do not like the electrics... Think i posted about hat somewhere Only do it because it is on a John Deere spec KT17 no thrust bearings...

 

 

 

Edited July 26, 2018 by pfrederi

[953 nut 55,005]

I have two 4" sealed beams and four 1156 which are on a flasher. I only run the lights if I am on the road using the loader to move snow back from the end of the driveway.

I too am retired and don't play with my toys after dark.