Parts?

[eddiebunyan 24]

I'm putting my auto-18 transaxle back together and need a o-ring set ,case gasket #5999,and a pump gasket #5955. Does anybody sell these,or know someone who does? Thanks

[stevasaurus 22,878]

those gaskets are only available from TORO...if they are still available.  Your dealer just may have one on the shelf.  If not, I use Kero-Pak 1/32' x 1' x 3' for about $6 and cut my own.  this is available from Autozone, NAPA, etc.  You tube has videos on how to cut your own gaskets. 

[pfrederi 17,893]

PM Me your address I will mails you a set of O rings, backers and sealing washer for the hydro motor to manifold

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,102]

5955 Sundstrand hydro pump gasket nla - 102759 gasket should work

 

Garry

 

[R. L. Addison 299]

Yup - Yup - yup, working on an identical unit,but mine has not got a hole in the bottom of it, and going under a "C" series that's been down over a year and haven't gotten parts for it yet. Everything in amazingly good shape considering. I've had gaskets in stock forever, so i'm good there.

[eddiebunyan 24]

4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

PM Me your address I will mails you a set of O rings, backers and sealing washer for the hydro motor to manifold

Thanks for all the info.I'd like to have the original gaskets to use for templates and make my own as Stevasauras suggested!I'll try my toro dealer to see if I can get them.Boy I really missed the old girl last winter with her 59" blade,had to use my 68 124 manual cub cadet with the 32" blade.She did well but took twice as long(300'driveway),get off to rotate blade and with all the snow we got she couldn't push the banks back like the 180.Wah,Wah!

[R. L. Addison 299]

I have one 5955 gasket which I think is for Hydrogear and an extra 102759 which should be piston>piston. 102759 will do both.     I also have the case which is broke, and depending on axle size. maybe the side flanges for the bull gear. I would have to check size. Bull gear & flanges are rusty and would need to be cleaned up. 

 Ron Addison  (309) 241-7289

[eddiebunyan 24]

Thanks I have a case and now a differential gear thanks to another member.According to gary,5955(the original) is nla and the replacement is The 102759.However I would still need 5999 the case gasket.You can e-mail me at ersylvia@myfairpoint.net  Thanks

[pacer 3,174]

I'm also into one - off a D160 - because of the park brake, when I got it apart and looked at that contrary thing for a few mins,  I decided to just simply do away with it!do away with it!! problem solved!! An added benefit came from this, since I went ahead and removed ALL of the park brake stuff (all that convoluted linkage) the tractor is Sooo much easier to move fwd/backward.

 

Now, the 5999 gasket - I looked pretty extensively and came up with zip -- so I just cut one myself like a couple of the other posters said, its really pretty easy. The trick - I found - was to lay your material over your case with it laying on its side (I mounted mine in the vise) and punch out all the bolt holes ( I ground the end of a 3/8 bolt to have sharp edges so it would cut the hole) and then went around and stuck 3/8 bolts in all the holes to 'stabilize' the material and proceeded to tap tap tap the eges away til I had me a nice gasket!

[eddiebunyan 24]

Thanks!I just thought if I could get a hold of one, I would save it as a template.How did you seal the parking brake shaft hole in the case half?

[pacer 3,174]

Use your case as your template, not only is it a template but gives you the sharp edges to trim the material - get on you tube and do a search on 'making a gasket' there are several short clips showing how.

 

I retained the shaft of the park brake since as you figured you have to have something to fit in the hole! I used my band saw to trim off the broken teeth to keep it away from the gear (thankfully the gear didnt sustain damage) then I also cut the arm off close to the shaft, leaving the shaft as original but with not touching any thing.

 

I just spent a couple hours mowing and I am Soooo pleased with the ease of movement on the shift lever after getting rid of all that park brake stuff. And, hey, I cant recall EVER using the brake pedal or the park brake anyway - the shifter handle is a wonderful brake!

[pfrederi 17,893]

58 minutes ago, pacer said:

Use your case as your template, not only is it a template but gives you the sharp edges to trim the material - get on you tube and do a search on 'making a gasket' there are several short clips showing how.

 

I retained the shaft of the park brake since as you figured you have to have something to fit in the hole! I used my band saw to trim off the broken teeth to keep it away from the gear (thankfully the gear didnt sustain damage) then I also cut the arm off close to the shaft, leaving the shaft as original but with not touching any thing.

 

I just spent a couple hours mowing and I am Soooo pleased with the ease of movement on the shift lever after getting rid of all that park brake stuff. And, hey, I cant recall EVER using the brake pedal or the park brake anyway - the shifter handle is a wonderful brake!

Curious, is yours one of the older models that had the two slots to the rear for teh motion control lever one for reverse and one to apply the parking brake??

[pacer 3,174]

Paul

My 180 is a '75 year and has the awful 2 slot configuration - my 160 unknown year has the 2 slot with a 'block' bolted on and no linkage for that type, it has/had the control under the dash, my 200 is from 79 with just the one slot and has the later under dash knob.

 

Just curious, do you - and others - really find you need to use the foot brake or the park brake? I've had the 180 some 30+ years and dont recall ever actually using it to stop, I just pull back the shift lever....

[eddiebunyan 24]

Mine only has the one slot.The shaft on my parking pawl is about 3/8" below the pawl itself.I'm assuming the pin has severed. How do you pull the pawl off the shaft from the inside?To tell you the truth I didn't even know I had a parking brake on my auto-18,since the handle was missing and just the flat bar lever was there!My tractor creeps,won't stay in neutral!I tried adjusting the cam with the wheels off the ground but couldn't adjust the cam far enough to make the wheels stop.I assumed the cam was worn out!Maybe it had something to do with the parking pawl?I'm thinking I'll eliminate the parrking brake all together like you did ,but I'll tap the shaft hole and just put a plug in it?

[R. L. Addison 299]

The one I'm putting in my "C" series also has the parking pawl & I am going to make a plug with an "O" ring that I can tighten a screw on the outside of the case and expand the oring thus sealing the hole until & if it is ever needed again. I don't plan on that day ever coming, but it keeps the credibility of that case. The pawl looked almost like new when I took it out, not sure it has been used that much. (This had a loader & backhoe on it, so maybe it hasn't.)

[pfrederi 17,893]

16 hours ago, pacer said:

Paul

My 180 is a '75 year and has the awful 2 slot configuration - my 160 unknown year has the 2 slot with a 'block' bolted on and no linkage for that type, it has/had the control under the dash, my 200 is from 79 with just the one slot and has the later under dash knob.

 

Just curious, do you - and others - really find you need to use the foot brake or the park brake? I've had the 180 some 30+ years and dont recall ever actually using it to stop, I just pull back the shift lever....

I occasionally use the brake pedal if my hands are tied up with steering and FEL control.  I use the parking brake a lot