'75 C-160 Lift Lever -repair or replace ?

[1Horse Bob 14]

Hello to all -I recently bought a '75 C-160 8speed and found this forum-what a great resource for the new to me wheel horse needing some TLC.

 

It came with a deck with spindle ripped out of the middle and a box of spare parts- $200 for all. It started and drove on the trailer and when we got it home would barely start as raw gas was pouring out of the air cleaner .

After lots of scrubbing and soaking with diesel fuel and simple green most ft he grime came off-

Next was flush and fill engine and trans oil and replacing carb with similar carter from a cub cadet waiting to get some love

 

Now its running well and not as grimy so next is plan to put a plow on her-found a 48" and brackets to mount to rear axle, so far so good -BUT-

 

 

 

now I realize that my lift lever is roached 

 

 

 

It came out easy enough-but it looks like the PO at some point broke it and welded it back together -and it doesn't look like it will go back together as parts don't line up well . 

Does anyone know if there should have been a groove and clip to attach this at the end of the shaft ?

Any opinions on try to fix this one or look for new one ?

Thanks !

[daveoman1966 3,745]

I am just East of Meadville and I have a REPLACEMENT lift handle....  call me at 814-763-5700.   (have several of them actually).

Dave

[N3PUY 1,031]

I have one also!  I picked it up and looked at it ..... looks like it's been welded also. 

Then I saw the vise marks on it ... yep welded! 

 

 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

Being a Fabrication Doctor, id like to have one, just to see if i can make it stronger ? High stress area, is the handle hollow ?

[KC9KAS 4,741]

10 minutes ago, Big_Red_Fred said:

Being a Fabrication Doctor, id like to have one, just to see if i can make it stronger ? High stress area, is the handle hollow ?

The handle is hollow, as the rod that locks the lever at various levels runs through the handle/tube.

[Aldon 4,826]

That tractor sure did clean up nice! Nice tractor for sure! Take up Dave on his offer and you'll be up and working it in no time!

 

And welcome to the Square!

 

 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,295]

Welcome to Red Square. Looks like you paid for the seat and rear wheel weights and got a free tractor with accessories. This is just advise , I had the non skid material on my foot panels . I needed to to do some work on both so I removed the non skid material and found a boat load of rust. A lot of rust where water had gotten in cracks and edges of the material . A lot more work an I had planned. Nice looking tractor. 

[1Horse Bob 14]

Thanks Alton -I'll take your advice on Daves deal-still wondering if the factory welded this on -if so I don't see how you could get the block off that has a thin bushing to service it -

 

the other side has a block that you could probably get to the bushing 

 

 

[Aldon 4,826]

There is another recent thread on how the rock shaft weld gave way. In that thread several who have significant experience relate that the welds from Factory quality were at times less than desirable. But when you consider how few issues most of us have had, all in all they held up great.

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

You'd think there would be a large snap ring or wedge that locks it all together, i'm going down to the C125 i have, maybe its close to this one

35 plus years isnt bad if you think about it

[1Horse Bob 14]

Thank you Elcamino !  I have had lots of fun with this horse so far -those non-slip pads are coming unglued from all the diesel fuel I have been showering on the tractor loosening up the grime -about 4 gallons so far -I don't have a pressure washer so it's spray and bake in the sun -lol

I will take your advice and peel them off and see what lays beneath -but if it's solid as the other side I took off to get at the drive pulleys I was surprised how heavy the metal was -good American steel ( I hope )

 

i didn't know the seat was anything special - I do like the armrests -the wheel weights are heavy -was glad I didn't drop one on my foot-👀didn't weigh them but they are deep -I think they my touch the back of the rim - I am surprised how easily this horse can be pushed under my own steam -I ran out of gas driving around the buildings here and had to push it good way back -😳

[SylvanLakeWH 25,490]

[Rob XC700 75]

Welcome. That cleaned up real nice. Well worth all the hard work.

[Ed Kennell 38,022]

The three lift assemblies that I have all have the lift arm factory welded to the shaft.

There is no sign of a bushing in the cast iron blocks.

 

A manual lift

 

 

A hydraulic lift

 

Manual lift with removable keyed shaft and lift arms and bushings.

 

 

 

[N3PUY 1,031]

I looked at another tractor ... it looks like an original weld.  Much nicer than the chewing gum on the lever in my other pics.

[1Horse Bob 14]

Thanks for all the input - I never would have guessed that's how the factory assembled the lift lever . As per elcamino's advice I removed the non-slip foot pads and was glad to see all solid metal underneath 

 

[1Horse Bob 14]

 

 

While it's apart waiting for new used lift arm decided to take front wheel off as it had lots of wobble.

outer bearing toast -but also noticed lots of play in axle bore -could fit a .30 feeler gauge in gap .

can this be re-bushed or is that normal ?

 

[Aldon 4,826]

You can get new foot pads from our vendor area...kitchens something or other or custom make them or whatever custom alternative you can think of. 

 

That tractor survived for the most part as well as any. Congrats 

[AMC RULES 37,127]

http://classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-tractors-parts-c-42/

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

Hey Ed, nice Pic's, tho you need sum oil on the lens like mine 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,547]

59 minutes ago, Big_Red_Fred said:

Hey Ed, nice Pic's, tho you need sum oil on the lens like mine 

I had to do it Ed LOL

[953 nut 55,070]

Here is a diagram of the lift arm assembly.

13 hours ago, 1Horse Bob said:

noticed lots of play in axle bore -could fit a .30 feeler gauge in gap .

can this be re-bushed or is that normal ?

  That seems about average for a four decade old . You could insert a strip of SS shim stock to tighten it up a bit.

[Sarge 3,463]

I bore out the spindle bores and center pin , press brass or bronze bushing material in the hole and ream to final size . McMaster sells both types but only certain ones available in a thin wall version of 3/4"x7/8"x3" . Some are also available with spiral grease channels which will help . Biggest problem is forcing grease to the top of the spindle on most of them , I support the tractor from it's frame and let the axle hang by the center pin when greasing the front end - seems to help a lot .

It's not a fun job , but a bridge reamer will open up the spindle bore , just have to be really careful to keep the original angle or you risk making it off camber .

 

Sarge