FRICTION COLLAR ROD SEIZING

[Chuck14025 9]

Is there a way to lubricate the rod that holds the FRICITON COLLAR ASSEMBLY so the rod does not seize?

[daveoman1966 3,747]

no.  It should not need lube of any sort.  The only friction point is between the friction collar and cone....

The moving parts are the cone, spring, tube, collar, and locking nut.  The shaft DOES NOT turn at all.

Just keep the tunnel cover on to preclude dirt /oil contaminates. 

[Chuck14025 9]

This may be a very dumb question but, what causes the unit to seize?

[daveoman1966 3,747]

In my world, there are no dumb questions.  Why it would seize, I have only a dumb answer.....unknown.  Maybe from just sitting for a long time.  I do know that, if it is seized REAL TIGHT, you could break the TAB weld on the left side of the hoodstand that keep the shaft from turning.  Look at this pic. 

 

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

Could it be from the cam follower.  Part 5995, mine had old hard grease on it

 

[Chuck14025 9]

C120

 

The tab on my rod is ok. The plastic cam follower had a lot of grease on it. Once I had it cleaned up I could see that the CAM BLOCK PIN was hitting the CAM FOLLOWER ARM probably caused by damage to the vertical plate at the end of the rear of the tractor frame. Damage to the 'plate' causes the entire transmission unit to 'tilt', forcing the CAM FOLLOWER ARM forward causing the CAM BLOCK PIN to catch on it - thus, no reverse gear.

Thanks for your help.

[daveoman1966 3,747]

you are exactly right about the cracked frame plate being the cause of the difficult motion control lever.  When that frame plate cracks, it is right at the middle strain of the tractor and causes it to flex, sometimes so much that the pin will actually come out of the nylon cam, breaking it.  Seen it a dozen times.

The repair process I've shown will way fix this....making it much more durable to your abuse...lol

[Chuck14025 9]

Dave, would you be interested in making the angle iron repairs for me? I'd be happy to pay for your time and material.

[daveoman1966 3,747]

If I was a younger man, with good health, I'd jump at this.  However, I have COPD which really limits my physical ability to do much labor on anything.  I may, however, be able to pre-fab the two angle irons for you from a template in my shop.  Once cut and drilled to the template, you could then bolt them to the frame plate, then drill the 3 or 4 bolt locations on each side.   

Even at that, I will be a couple hours making the angle irons... $85 will get them to you...

Dave

 

 

[Chuck14025 9]

That would be great.  You've got a deal Dave.  Shall I mail a check? Would you like a phone number?

[daveoman1966 3,747]

Inasmuch as I have been stung 3 times this year on pers cks that bounce , I can no longer accept them.  However, if you spend a buck or two to buy a money order at any convenience store or USPS, that is acceptable.  Mail it to here:

DAVID A. LUZIER

16729 PRICE RD

SAEGERTOWN, PA   16433

 

[Chuck14025 9]

Your money order is going out with today's mail. The envelope is addressed and stamped and I'm on my way to the store to get the money order.

 

Do you know if 520 series have the same problem with the plate?

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

I had a 1995 520h and toro did start putting a reinforced plate there to stop them from cracking. There was also a plate that they sold as a repair kit. But there not available anymore. Someone here had a plate for sale and a diagram for making your own but there a lot of work to make plus they had to be welded on .Daveoman 1966  is one of the best mechanics here.

 

[Chuck14025 9]

Your money is on the way via US Mail. It goes to Buffalo, then Rochester to the sectional center, then to Pittsburgh, then to Sagertown. You may get it Monday, it not Tuesday.

[daveoman1966 3,747]

ok... I'll gas-up my sawzall and start growing some angle iron.....ready to harvest it.  

Make sure to get 4 trans bolts (3/8) that are 1/4 to 3/8 longer than the 4 you take out of the frame plate.

Not too long though....they might bottom out on the trans case....not sure. 

BTW... how long are the bolts you take out....lemme know. 

You'll also need the 6 or 8 bolts (3/8" ) with NYLOK nuts for the sides....1 1/4" otter be long enough... 1" would probably work, not sure, again.

 

 

Edited July 22, 2017 by daveoman1966

[Chuck14025 9]

Saturday noon.    I have to work on the tractor outside so not its a waiting game with the rain before I can take it apart. Will let you know the length of the bolts asap.  

[daveoman1966 3,747]

I'm ready to send parts to you.....  soon as the m.o. arrives.

Couple pics...   I state that you'd need longer bolts...get some that are 3/8 to 1/2 inch longer.  

The washer you see are for spacers behind the angle iron....

[Chuck14025 9]

Dave,

Your photos are excellent. Very helpful. Very encouraging. Going to rain here today and tomorrow so I can't even get the tractor apart until Tuesday.

 

I have very little experience drilling holes in steel. I have a set of drill bits but not sure of the quality of the bits. I do have a good 1/2" drill. If I have trouble, is there a type or brand of bit you would recommend?   Chuck

[daveoman1966 3,747]

Chuck...  I got the m.order today, but you name is not EXACTLY clear to me.  I need to be certain.  So, please send an email to me...OUTSIDE of this Red Square forum.  my email address is:

daveoman@windstream.net

 

[daveoman1966 3,747]

On 7/23/2017 at 8:12 AM, Chuck14025 said:

Dave,

Your photos are excellent. Very helpful. Very encouraging. Going to rain here today and tomorrow so I can't even get the tractor apart until Tuesday.

 

I have very little experience drilling holes in steel. I have a set of drill bits but not sure of the quality of the bits. I do have a good 1/2" drill. If I have trouble, is there a type or brand of bit you would recommend?   Chuck

Did you get the reinforcement brackets installed....just wondering how it worked out.

[Chuck14025 9]

i HAVE finally made time to install the brackets but now I can't get the friction control arm to line up with the hole in the right side of the frame. I suspect the transmission might be tilted to far toward the front of the tractor preventing the cam pin from fitting into the nylon cam. Would additional washers/spacers in the top two bolts of the vertical plate correct this problem? Also, I remember seeing photos about jacking or blocking the transmission during the install process but can't find the photos.   Chuck

[daveoman1966 3,747]

You should NOT have to add washers or such to make the parts of the shift arm line up.  I've seen this before.  When the frame plate breaks, the  whole tractor 'SAGS' right at the frame plate/trans bolt connection.  The thing to do is jack up the rear end of the tractor, then let it settle down on the FRONT EDGE of the trans case to 'pinch' the frame plate back  iton position, letting the weight of the tractor do that....as a fulcrum point.  This is real tough to explain.  Maybe this pic will help.

Once yuou have that in position, then mount the ANGLE IRON repair kit I sent you.  

Edited October 20, 2017 by daveoman1966

[Chuck14025 9]

Thanks Dave. I had the pin in the wrong hole on the nylon cam. Once in the right hold the pin still hits the front of the transmission. Loosening the top two bolts of the transmission allows the shift lever to work correctly but, now it seems I need to shim between the transmission and the top of the vertical plate so I can tighten the top two screws.

Chuck

Whoa. Let me try taking the shims out of the bottom. The bottom of the trans case had been welded at one point and is distorted. We'll see it removing the shims works.

[Chuck14025 9]

Dave,

I got it working by putting shims between the vertical frame member and the transmission to give clearance for the cam pin; that worked. The braces you made are unbeatable. Now I have to figure out how to adjust the friction lever.

Thanks for all your help.

Chuck

[daveoman1966 3,747]

The adjustment is on page 18 of this .pdf file.  You can alos find it on this forum in the MANUALS section.

Sunstrand Hydro (part 1).pdf