Can't get the pin out

[bob54 12]

How do I get this pin out,  I've tried heat, rust penetrate, and an air hammer, and just rust penetrate and the air hammer.    I can't get it to move, no matter what I do,,and yes I removed the clips from both ends.  I knew you were thinking about that

[JPWH 6,033]

Lots of penetrate and lots of patience.

Search remove hitch pin and you will have lots of ideas. Some have cut them out. Some have drilled holes fore penetrating oil and added grease zerk later.

Jay

[Searcher60 209]

Take it to a machine shop and let them press it out?

[Jerry77 1,218]

6 minutes ago, Searcher60 said:

Take it to a machine shop and let them press it out?

Pressing beats the heck out of hammering....

[bob54 12]

Pressing sounds good to me,  to old for a the old BFH

[953 nut 55,155]

Here is a thread that has some different ideas.

 

[pacer 3,169]

Those dang things are right in there with steering wheels and axle hubs for frustration makers!

[daveoman1966 3,747]

I wouldn't use a BFH on this pin....that'll just flare it out.  Best way I've found... Sawzall it on both sides and get the slot hitch off first....cut flush with the trans case.  Then, center drill a 5/8 hole at least 1" deep into both ends (pin is 3/4").  Stick a 1/2" dia drift pin into the 5/8" hole and WHACK it a few times.  It should break free, then drive it thru.  

When done, got to TSC and buy a 3/4" pin with pull handle on it...10 bux or so.       

 

[JoeM 7,871]

looks like your trying to hammer it out using wood as a blocker??? Might want to use metal, gives a lot less. May even think of using a piece of pipe cut to length on a good solid floor.

[Sarge 3,463]

Just remember one thing - that trans case is cast , and it can/will break if you hit it too hard . I usually heat the area around the pin one side at a time and apply paraffin canning wax , let it cool a bit and repeat several times . That wax will be drawn into the parts as they cool and will penetrate as good or better than any chemical made - and is safe to eat to boot . Best thing I've found for cast iron parts that are stuck , it's an old machinist's trick . You could also search out Ed's Red if you have the patience to wait for it to soak , that formula works better than anything in a can and you can make it yourself .

 

Some have also drilled each half of the case and installed grease zerks to help break that shaft loose . I use a rolled piece of crocus cloth on a die grinder 1/4" shaft to polish and ream all of mine after they are removed to prevent it happening again .

 

Sarge

[rmaynard 15,434]

6 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

...Best way I've found... Sawzall it on both sides and get the slot hitch off first....cut flush with the trans case.  Then, center drill a 5/8 hole at least 1" deep into both ends (pin is 3/4").  Stick a 1/2" dia drift pin into the 5/8" hole and WHACK it a few times.  It should break free, then drive it thru.  

Tried this method and it works. I recommend driving the pin from the thin side of the transmission toward the thick side. Reduces the chances of breakage.

[bob54 12]

The Swazall trick worked.  Cut the pin in two places, removed the hitch and was able to drive the pin pieces out with no trouble.  Thanks all

[WHX?? 48,813]

Bob -1 hitch pin  - 0

[bob54 12]

Do I get a Trophy too   

 

[pfrederi 17,697]

1 hour ago, bob54 said:

Do I get a Trophy too   

 

No trophy until you also get the steering wheel off and both hubs.  The trifecta of frustrating Wheel Horse projects....

[JPWH 6,033]

Don't forget to silent video the steering wheel and hub removal. I'm feeling your pain before you get started.

Jay

[bob54 12]

the rear hubs came off with a puller, no problem. and i finally have the Transmission case apart after several hours of fighting.  One axle bearing welded itself to the axle and the other one just didn't want to come out.  I could get the half's a part about 4 inches then it wouldn't move any further. So I used a spreader from a  portapower put pressure on the case and used hunk of Oak and a SFH and finally got them apart.  See the photos of the inside.  Hadn't seen anything like this since my street racing days when we'd blow the rear end doing hole shots.

Any ideas what caused this?

[daveoman1966 3,747]

My guess... You have a really pissied off tooth fairy (pun intended) lurking about.    WOW..  have never seen disintegration quite like that.

I have parts for this, or a a good 4-speed trans from a B-80  to replace it.

email to:

daveoman@windstream.net 

 

[953 nut 55,155]

3 hours ago, bob54 said:

Do I get a Trophy too   

 

 

Considering what you found inside a trophy is the least we can do for you!     

[bob54 12]

I would like to thank Wheel Horse for the Trophy. With out them none of this would have been needed and to everyone on the Forum who made the pin removal possible 

[Sarge 3,463]

14 hours ago, bob54 said:

the rear hubs came off with a puller, no problem. and i finally have the Transmission case apart after several hours of fighting.  One axle bearing welded itself to the axle and the other one just didn't want to come out.  I could get the half's a part about 4 inches then it wouldn't move any further. So I used a spreader from a  portapower put pressure on the case and used hunk of Oak and a SFH and finally got them apart.  See the photos of the inside.  Hadn't seen anything like this since my street racing days when we'd blow the rear end doing hole shots.

Any ideas what caused this?

 

"Hadn't seen anything like this since my street racing days when we'd blow the rear end doing hole shots."

 

Bingo ! Most likely someone using it's weight and momentum to pull on something , very , very hard - repeatedly . Or , perhaps trying to do wheelies ....I grenaded not only a rear end but also a very expensive (supposedly bulletproof) ceramic clutch in my old Sami . It did go airborne once , really well ....lol .

 

The only thing that can do that is repeated shock loads . One other thing that can really wreak havoc is spinning a tire on ice and suddenly stopping it on clear dry pavement - that kills differentials right quick ....

 

Sarge

[edgro 677]

Have seen this a lot in big trucks, have repaired many Fuller transmissions. Manufacturers call it shock load, mechanics call it driver abuse