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Ideas for custom attachments.

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pfrederi

My L107 Lawn tangier routinely hauls 750 lbs of coal up from the barn all winter long.... Screwed up thus last week forgot to take the AGs of  and put the turfs chains on. Would never make it up the hill with AGs in the snow.

 

 

IMG_0116.JPG

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WVHillbilly520H
6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

My L107 Lawn tangier routinely hauls 750 lbs of coal up from the barn all winter long.... Screwed up thus last week forgot to take the AGs of  and put the turfs chains on. Would never make it up the hill with AGs in the snow.

 

 

IMG_0116.JPG

How old and what brand AGs do you have? , I noticed when I had the old 2cd hand Nankang AGs on my first 520 even fluid filled and weighted they just wouldn't flex and bite in colder weather without chains, now these new ones I have ,without chains, never cease to amaze me like last week on pushing the sleet/ice/snow mix off our sloping asphalt driveway 

20201217_145717.jpg

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Ed Kennell

Nuther calendar shot there Paul.  Just need you in the seat with your dog ear hat on.

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ebinmaine
32 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Wow, 275# is pretty conservative, though that may be partly a limit for safe drivability and braking, etc. so a tongue weight of less than 100#?

 

You'll find a few threads discussing what the towable weight is of various horses. 

I've seen a "safe" weight of 200 to 300 lbs. 

 

The big thing to remember with there tractors is not how much you can move, but how much you can STOP. 

 

Like @WVHillbilly520H we take care of our rigs but we do occasionally freight them well. 

I've hauled well over 1000 lbs here on the mountainside many times. 

I do use a specially built trailer to do so. 

 

C160 doesn't even understand it's working. 

No effort. Rarely even touches governor. 

 

 

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Ed Kennell
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Agree with your premise of risk where a small area of the transaxle is getting a lot of pressure from torquing the standard drawbar hitch. Would add a caution, though, that your solution also has risk. It puts a multiple of the weights in your rack as downward pressure on the rear hitch crossbar due to the leverage being applied. 

The multiple comes from the fulcrum of the lever being the point where it contacts the plow frame bar. The transaxle bar is roughly 6" along the lever and the center of the weights is roughly 12". So the down force on the transaxle bar is roughly twice (12÷6) the weights carried even though the down force on the tractor as a whole is only the weights and rack. Also, if the hitch holes are misaligned the force could be disproportionate on one half of the casing.

I have no idea what the max recommended weight on that drawbar mount is, though someone else here might.

 

All weights that are added to the rear of the axle centerline exert more down force than the actual weight.    The negative is the weight also decreases the downforce on the front wheels.

example....one pound weight placed far enough to the rear could actually lift the front wheels placing the entire weight of the tractor on the rears.   That's why pullers like wheelies.

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Handy Don
36 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

All weights that are added to the rear of the axle centerline exert more down force than the actual weight.    The negative is the weight also decreases the downforce on the front wheels.

No disagreement here. Was focused on the force on the transaxle housing itself being greater than the weights themselves because of the lever-style weight rack, not on the forces on the tire patches.

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Handy Don
40 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

one pound weight placed far enough to the rear could actually lift the front wheels placing the entire weight of the tractor on the rears.   That's why pullers like wheelies

Archimedes is famous for the quote: "Give me a place to stand on, and I will move the Earth" He planned to use a lever!

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giddyap

My contribution (post #46) is an epic fail. The replies could have made me the subject of ridicule, but not from this community. Instead, the comments were an intelligent conversation proving me wrong while respecting my dignity. With great appreciation, I extend my sincere graditude to all.

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, giddyap said:

My contribution (post #46) is an epic fail. The replies could have made me the subject of ridicule, but not from this community. Instead, the comments were an intelligent conversation proving me wrong while respecting my dignity. With great appreciation, I extend my sincere graditude to all.

 

My Grammy always told me..

if I didn't have anything nice to say I shouldn't say anything at all...

 

 

I'm just messing with you Bud I wasn't even going to reply cuz I don't have the knowledge like some of these folks. 

 

In all seriousness, that very thing of supplying positive energy while making a comment is one of the biggest reasons why I enjoy this site so much. 

 

 

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-yeahthat:

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Ed Kennell
54 minutes ago, giddyap said:

My contribution (post #46) is an epic fail. The replies could have made me the subject of ridicule, but not from this community. Instead, the comments were an intelligent conversation proving me wrong while respecting my dignity. With great appreciation, I extend my sincere graditude to all.

Congradulations Giddy.    You just won the Big Man Award for being gracious in accepting advice.    :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

We all need to be reminded of this.

Edited by Ed Kennell
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Handy Don
19 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Congradulations Giddy.    You just won the Big Man Award for being gracious in accepting advice.    :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

We all need to be reminded of this.

Well said, Ed. Delighted to agree.

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ebinmaine
26 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Big

Not me Ed.. I'm already too damn big....

 

 

Actually that might not be what you meant....

:ROTF:

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Maxwell-8
15 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

You'll find a few threads discussing what the towable weight is of various horses. 

I've seen a "safe" weight of 200 to 300 lbs. 

 

The big thing to remember with there tractors is not how much you can move, but how much you can STOP. 

 

Like @WVHillbilly520H we take care of our rigs but we do occasionally freight them well. 

I've hauled well over 1000 lbs here on the mountainside many times. 

I do use a specially built trailer to do so. 

 

C160 doesn't even understand it's working. 

No effort. Rarely even touches governor. 

 

 

I have pulled trailer up to 1250 lbs with just a regularly 8hp lawnmower. A WH can do more, it's indeed in the brakes and the 'risk' you want to take. 

Edited by Maxwell-8
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giddyap

After my post #46 failure and before I proceed, will this set-up pass Physics 101?

DSC06923.JPG

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DennisThornton
44 minutes ago, giddyap said:

After my post #46 failure and before I proceed, will this set-up pass Physics 101?

DSC06923.JPG

I'll have to keep an eye on this.

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ebinmaine
58 minutes ago, giddyap said:

After my post #46 failure and before I proceed, will this set-up pass Physics 101?

DSC06923.JPG

I'm no engineer but I'm going to go ahead and throw out an answer. 

 

Please feel free to correct me if I'm not stating this quite right...

 

I'd say that if you're going to hang the weight in between the turnbuckle and the three-quarter rod that holds the plow, you alleviated the lever and fulcrum situation and spread the weight more accordingly between the two points. 

 

HOWEVER!

 

The fact that there's a fair amount of weight hanging off the top where thin sheet metal is doing all the support does not exactly make me feel warm and fuzzy. 

 

The physically thickest and logically strongest place on the back of the transmission is going to be where the hitch pin should go through at the bottom corner. 

 

The tab that goes forward on the stock type hitch could be reinforced or weight spread side to side with a cross bar so as to avoid cracking of the case. 

 

The biggest heaviest hitches that I've seen utilize the 2" square where the plow is mounted and also the rear hitch pin area. 

 

 

On my own tractor I have a hitch that bolts four and aft and I fabbed up a couple of plow mounts that couple to it on the front of the two inch square. 

 

 

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DennisThornton

I'm not sure what the goal is here but there are lots of examples of fine HD 2" receivers that attach to the axles on this forum.  

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Stormin
On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2020 at 11:56 PM, ebinmaine said:

Dennis. Man....

Now I'mma haveta build that. 

 

:happy-partydance:

 

Oh dear! When you going to start? Or more importantly. When will you finish? :hide:

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giddyap
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

weight hanging off the top where thin sheet metal is doing all the support does not exactly make me feel warm and fuzzy. 

 

I agree, so I will add support and run a 1/2" bar thru the box to hang the flat white bar replacing the turnbuckles. BTW this addition as described is possible on this C-81, 8 speed because I removed the wrap around gas tank and added the box from an older model to support the seat pan that pivots up and back . 

DSC06930.JPG

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

Oh dear! When you going to start? Or more importantly. When will you finish? :hide:

Later ........   and more later.....

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm no engineer but I'm going to go ahead and throw out an answer. 

 

Please feel free to correct me if I'm not stating this quite right...

 

I'd say that if you're going to hang the weight in between the turnbuckle and the three-quarter rod that holds the plow, you alleviated the lever and fulcrum situation and spread the weight more accordingly between the two points. 

 

HOWEVER!

 

The fact that there's a fair amount of weight hanging off the top where thin sheet metal is doing all the support does not exactly make me feel warm and fuzzy. 

 

The physically thickest and logically strongest place on the back of the transmission is going to be where the hitch pin should go through at the bottom corner. 

 

The tab that goes forward on the stock type hitch could be reinforced or weight spread side to side with a cross bar so as to avoid cracking of the case. 

 

The biggest heaviest hitches that I've seen utilize the 2" square where the plow is mounted and also the rear hitch pin area. 

 

 

On my own tractor I have a hitch that bolts four and aft and I fabbed up a couple of plow mounts that couple to it on the front of the two inch square. 

 

 

I agree with the concern about the the upper bar being attached to the tractor by relatively thin sheet metal.

 

Take a look at how Lowell designed the hitch he sells at wheelhorsepartsandmore.com

797883118_WheelhorsePartsandMoreHitch.jpg.ebfbb02bfa8eac30d544f672a731af09.jpg 

He uses a combination of the axle housing section of the transaxle and the drawbar hitch. He makes sure the weight is distributed--onto the axle castings using the bolt on clamps, and onto that lower hitch by welding the support arms going to the drawbar pin directly to the 2" receiver hitch tube.

Another idea is a thread that showed a member who bolted an extension to his plow frame and put weights on that extension--again, putting the load onto the axle casing portions of the transaxle.

No doubt what you have in your latest image can work. The question is how much weight will you want it to support?

Edited by Handy Don
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ebinmaine
11 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

that showed a member who bolted an extension to his plow frame and put weights on that extension

@Lee1977 maybe?

 

 

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elcamino/wheelhorse

@giddyap I like your current design , give it a try.  I don't know how much weight you are going to hang on it , but in my ole redneck brain I think it will work.

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giddyap
12 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

your latest image can work. The question is how much weight will you want it to support?

I think this will support enough weight to help plowing snow

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@Lee1977 maybe?

 

 

An extension to the plow frame would be a fulcrum and lever (I think)

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