PTO clutch lining..

[Indiana_Steve 124]

Where does one get new friction material for the PYO clutch? Mine is getting pretty thin.

[Red144runner 657]

My 1848 clutch was worn to the rivets and had started to score the clutch face. My dealer sold the clutch embossed onto the pressure plate and it wasn't cheap. I found an nos clutch, drilled the old rivets out and jb welded the new clutch on the old plate. Also had my friend machine the clutch face down.

[redone 45]

Those disk are available at Toro. But expensive.75.00  by the way I need good conditions pulley and disk. 

Thanks

Bill

515 210 4726

[Molon_Labe 731]

I have replaced several PTO's with this JD B series disc....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/B2354R-One-Clutch-Disc-Facing-Repl-For-John-Deere-Tractor-B-50-520-530/320933399129?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

If you have a table sander it makes things easier,, a little JB-Weld and a press is all it takes to make your PTO as good as new.

 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 49,125]

There are some other good threads here in home brew replacing them without having to give your firstborn to Toro, search on them or check the instructionals section. One thread the member cut his own friction material out of some kind of sheet stock??

[608KEB 795]

I've bought the disc on its own with rivets from a Jacks Small Engine. I think it was about $35.00

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,345]

@Molon_Labe What size was the facing material ? I looked at the site you mentioned but only found 7 inch disks and larger. Did you have to trim the outer diameter of the disk ?

[Molon_Labe 731]

7 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@Molon_Labe What size was the facing material ? I looked at the site you mentioned but only found 7 inch disks and larger. Did you have to trim the outer diameter of the disk ?

The friction disc does extend past the plate by 1/2" but doesn't require any trimming.

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,345]

@Molon_Labe thanks for the information , time to make a purchase ( the wife is asleep , so I don't get the look )

[TDF5G 2,069]

 

Edited July 7, 2017 by TDF5G

[Warning:Unsupervised 82]

If you have manual PTO, not an electric PTO I wonder if a press is really needed to glue one on?   If I do this I'll let you all know if it works or not but it should work fine imo.

  What I'm thinking with manual, all one needs to do is epoxy your new lining material on the disc, then re-assemble everything back on the machine rather quickly and set the PTO lever into the on position overnight so it adds even pressure while it sets up. Maybe' to speed things a bit just assemble the main parts needed to get good even disc pressure overnight then correctly redo everything after the epoxy sets up completely for actual operation, idk without ever taking one off yet? 

Has anyone on here done this repair "successfully" this way yet?.. I did say "Successfully" now folks...lol  Most likely a PTO adjustments needed for new pad before epoxy comes onto the scene but anyone even tried this?

 

  I've done two of my tractors brake lining replacements successfully this way at least. After removing and cleaning everything off the band I simply re-installed my bare brake band on my tractor, epoxied backside of the new lining, then slid it between band/hub, aligned it all up and set my parking brake on overnight.  fwiw I had adjusted & verified my parking brake worked correctly "before" epoxy was applied by basic mock up... My first try worked out perfectly on both tractor's and the first one (yrs ago) I never removed the rear wheel even but' my second tractor (recently) I also replaced a leaky brake hub seal so I removed its wheel, its easier with wheel off, faster with it on. Both work great.  For more room and safety I put my tractors on jack stands but you can simply back one up on bricks/boards to get under one enough for a brake job. Just say'n...

 Now' only practicing in mechanics myself or being a practicing mechanic however one says it, I generally don't use a super fast setting epoxy unless it's really needed to have extra time to move things into position, but' also to clean it all off easier for a second round if or rather when I screw things up so nice the way I seem to do better and better the older I get...

 

 So' back to the point, besides epoxy type to use imo what matters most on relining applications is to put strong, even pressure on the whole pad area while your adhesive is setting up so it won't have areas between the pad/plate to cause vibration or air pockets that will help create pad cracking and/or separation later. At least this is my understanding fwiw and If I still had access to our good shop press I'd use one and with elect PTO it's pretty much a must here it seems to me? Unless you have another wheel horse with manual PTO??

 Now' I do have a 6" Wilson vise myself I could do it in but I think rather than chance too little or even worse too much pressure () it's probably best to let the tractor PTO itself hold full even pressure just as its designed to do? Just my thoughts on it though but' basically its PTO is in fact a manually operated press in its own design, generally speaking.  Again' has anyone gone this route with success on here?

 

Thanks all~~