Finally got a sickle!

[dtallon 320]

A sickle mower has been on my want list for a while.  Our yard backs up to a waterway and field, and along the edges is too rough to mow with a regular mower so we end up with a 2 foot or so swath of weeds that grow up tall.  It has always seemed like a great opportunity to use a sickle.  

 

I've come across a couple the last few years but either hesitated and missed out on them or decided I didn't want one that bad to pay what they were asking.  Today I finally found one and pulled the trigger.  The sickle itself is free and seems to be in pretty decent shape.  The seller said he used it 20+ years ago but it has probably been unused the last 15 years or so.  He also had the Charger 12 that he said his dad bought new with it, but I couldn't convince myself I needed another tractor.  That, and he his asking price was pretty strong for a straight, all original, but non-running tractor.  So far, the only significant issue I have found is I am missing the tensioner/idler pulley. I'm hoping I can figure something else out for that part and get this unit to work in short order.

[WHX?? 49,579]

 On every horseman's bucket list!

[Thegearhead0324 1,256]

Very nice looks like a keeper! 

[c-series don 9,166]

In my experience you kinda need a dedicated tractor for the sickle. It doesn't pop on and off like a mower deck. I'm thinking if you don't have a tractor to dedicate for this you should go back and make an offer for the charger 12 especially since they were originally married at one time!!! Whatever you decide we would like to see pictures of it mounted and working! I have not run mine a whole lot but I do know they don't like to run fast. When I got mine the yoke in the wobble box was broken, so welded it up. After running it, I could just tell that lower RPMs made it happier. I'm not sure but I think that maybe how it blew up. Also a VERY IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER  while running a sickle bar on a Wheel Horse, can't do this with a throw away box store tractor!!! 

[dtallon 320]

Yeah, I may end up kicking myself for not getting the Charger too.  The guy seemed to have more of a sentimental attachment to the tractor though, and I think he had more seat time with the regular mower deck that was on it than the sickle.  

 

My plan is to put it on my B100.  It's a nice tractor but I need more justification for keeping it around than pulling carts and things around the yard.  I know it won't be straightforward since the PTO setup is a newer style than the sickle was designed for, but I'm not opposed to converting it to the old style either.  I have seen some other posts too about PTO speed, so I will have to be mindful of that as well.  I will be sure to post updates along the way, and hopefully pictures of the finished product.  

 

Dave

[Uncle Buck 246]

I am not speaking from experience, but if at all possible I think you should try to buy the Charger 12. I think in the end you will find it was the best thing to do with this attachment. You are already missing a part to make this work, I think adding the Charger 12 will in the end make the job of putting your bar to work  easier than if you had passed on the tractor. One or more less problems to overcome if you will.

[c-series don 9,166]

I adapted my sickle bar to a C-121 8 speed and wasn't sure about the PTO To the implement pulley size but I think I found it . Just one more tractor I wish I could have taken to the big show. Another unmolested C-series I have. I have to get my ass in gear and post some pictures of these C-series I  have, most are quite nice. 

[AMC RULES 37,143]

 

[TravelinJavelin 620]

I would like to see a member do a vid on install of one of these...........I wouldn't mind a sickle either!

[dtallon 320]

I had another project I had to finish before I could get back to this one, but that one is now done and the weeds are getting tall so I have been chomping at the bit to get this working.  

 

It seems like all of these need the self-aligning bearings replaced on the front frame bracket.  One of mine was totally locked up.  Thanks to the tips on here, I was able to get the 7/8" bearings to fit the flanges and the bronze bushings to fit the 3/4" shaft.  The bearings I got had a locking collar instead of set screws into part of the bearing itself, so with the added width of the assembly I needed 2 bushings per bearing, one on the inside and one outside.  

 

 

I wasn't sure how well, or if this would mount on my mid-frame B100 Auto, but fortunately that wasn't an issue.  The only thing I had to do was make sure the steering stop was in place on the RH front wheel.  I had turned it out of the way after I took the mower deck off, but the RH wheel would have gotten into the pulley at full turn without it.  Since this sickle wasn't originally installed on this style PTO system, and I didn't get the original engagement pulley with the sickle, I had to get a little creative with the drive belt.  I ended up  using the pulley from the deck that came with my 854, and running a spring back to the belt shield bolt.  With a 1'2" x 41" belt, this seems to work pretty well.  

 

 

So far, so good without too many difficulties, but now for the fun part...  I could see the input shaft on the wobble box was missing it's seal, so I ordered an SKF 9815.  I may have jinxed myself by also ordering an SKF 12330 for the bottom just in case.  I initially installed just the input shaft seal hoping to not yet need the bottom one, but after filling the box with oil I found it all leaked out through the bottom the next morning.  Replacing that seal wasn't too bad, but it gave me my first look inside the wobble box.  I could tell there was a little bit of play in the system, but it didn't seem like anything was too bad.  Inside the wobble box, the first thing I noticed was a big weld across the base of the outside yoke ear.  It looked like a good weld and it was holding just fine.  

 

 

Peering deeper into the box, I noticed some excessive play on the inside ear of the yoke.  Further disassembly revealed the issue.  the inside ear was cracked all the way through.  Fortunately, it looked like there really wasn't any collateral damage from it being broken, and the pieces were all there.  This may yet prove to be a mistake, but I gave welding it back together a shot.  The weld looked pretty good (for one of my welds), so I reinstalled the bushing and put it all back together.  

 

 

I finished installing the sickle on the tractor.  I had to fabricate the lift rod, which fortunately there were great drawings on here of.  Instead of making the travel hook and bracket, I opted for an eye-bolt and chain.  

 

 

 

I wish I had gotten some pictures of the cutting.  I only ran it about 1/3 throttle so it didn't go too fast. The teeth on the sickle aren't in perfect shape, but I was impressed with how well it cut.  Unfortunately, before I got any pictures of the cutting I noticed an increase in the amount of vibration coming from the sickle.  Rather than risk it, I shut the sickle off and pulled the tractor back to the garage.  I took it apart again, and sure enough the yoke broke again.  It was only broken on one side, but I'm sure it wouldn't have been long before it was broken all the way through again.  

 

I plan to take the yoke to a weld shop tomorrow and see if they can do anything with it.  It looks like the yoke might be a standard size, so worst case I think I could get something machined to replace it.  I will keep you all posted.

[WHX?? 49,579]

10 hours ago, dtallon said:

it all leaked out through the bottom the next morning.

The fellas say this is a common issue with all of them even with a new seal. Yes please keep up updated!

@wheelhorseman Note the outside grass bar on his Lowell. We were discussing how some had it and some don't.

[dtallon 320]

I have seen some comments about the oil leaking.  I have had this apart so much I think there was only one night I had it together with oil in it since I replaced the seals, but for at least that one night the new seals seemed to do their job.  

 

I dropped the yoke off at the weld shop this morning and to my surprise they called later this afternoon to tell me it was done already.  My wallet is lighter, but the yoke is noticeably heavier and all one piece again. I had told the guy there was room around the yoke for him to reinforce it.  He added more than I expected, but I test fit it and it didn't look like it interfered with anything.  If it was rotating like a u-joint typically does, I'd be more worried about it being out of balance with one side being so much bigger than the other, but in this application I don't think it will matter that much.  

 

 

Since it was most likely already broken when I got the sickle, it is hard to tell if it broke due to a mechanical issue or operator error.  I don't see any obvious issues other than a little play in the bushing the yoke inserts into.  That may have occurred after it broke and not before, but if I can find one I should probably replace that bushing to reduce the chances of it breaking again.  Does anybody know a source and substitute part number for the 2693 bronze flange bushing, #15 on the SMS parts breakdown?

 

I didn't get an action shot, but here is a demonstration of what the sickle can do.  It's hard to tell from the picture, but there is about a foot drop from the grass down to the field where it eroded this Spring when we got a big rain after the farmer had tilled it all up.  The drop is too uneven and steep to mow with the regular mower deck.  My travel chain is just the right length to suspend the sickle level with the tractor, and it did a great job cutting off the grass and weeds.  I just need to get it fixed so I can finish the job.

 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,148]

That is a typical failure when the sickle mowers are operated at too high a speed. Every time the mower sections move they need to stop before changing direction. Slow slow slow is the key to a longer life.

 

Garry

[Racinbob 11,376]

As the others have said, LOW RPM. I wasn't much above idle speed with mine. I used a chain connected to the steering tower like yours and had an eyebolt installed on the bar. That way I could hold the bar at about 45° to clear the paths of briars.

[WHX?? 49,579]

Try McMaster Carr with a part number of 6338K431 for that #15 2693 bearing/bushing. https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/1185/=191ty5d

Might want to verify the correct dims.

You may have seen  this thread...

 

Edited August 22, 2017 by WHX12

[dtallon 320]

Thanks guys - I knew I had seen that picture with the reference numbers written in the margin, I just couldn't remember what thread it was in.  I should have remembered that one.  I was surfing Craigslist farther out than I normally go and saw that ad about the same time you posted it here.  I had a similar reaction to the picture and price, but totally missed that there was a sickle with it.  Glad you got it and are giving it the attention it deserves.  

 

Dave

[WHX?? 49,579]

Thanks Dave... Kudos to @dclarke for sharing his notes .. appears he saved us all some grief and wrong orders!

BTW I did get my lower and side seal from local Toro dealer... Somewhat reasonable $$ wise. I lucked out and all the other bearings were in real good shape. I will continue that thread once I get going on it again.

Edited August 22, 2017 by WHX12

[AMC RULES 37,143]

Lots of great info in this thread...

thanks for sharing it here.  

[dtallon 320]

I compared the dimensions of that McMaster Carr part with the bushing I have now, and there are a few differences.  Mine is 3/4" long overall, and the flange is 1.5" dia.  I am not sure it is original though.  The one yoke ear had obviously been welded by a previous owner, and I also noticed the yoke pin has been modified with a washer welded on one end so it only needs one snap ring.  After taking this bronze bushing out, I can see tool marks in the bore, so the bushing that was in there was at least taken out, if not replaced.  All of the other bushings seem to be pretty tight given the unit's age.  I'm guessing the whole wobble box has been repaired/rebuilt before.  

 

The 1.5" flange dia. seems to be the tricky part for replacing the bushing in question.  Other than that detail, they ended up having one at our Menards here in town that matched the other dimensions and what McMaster has.  I picked one up to try.  For anybody curious, it was Handi-Pack part #83938.  It does eliminate the slight amount of play that the one that is in there now has, but the flange is only 1.25" so there is less bearing area there.

 

 

Given that trade-off, I'm not sure one is all that better than the other, and you guys are probably right, it was running at too fast a speed that was the real problem.  The Charger 12 that was for sale with the sickle had a clutched PTO pulley on it.  Those seem to be about 3.5" drive dia. Pictures I have seen from the manual show the smaller PTO pulley.  The PTO pulley from a Lawn Ranger I had for comparison is only 1.5" drive dia.  Using those dimensions, that means the clutched pulley on that Charger 12 and on my B100 will run the sickle over twice the RPM it was intended for.  A PTO pulley swap may be in my future, although I'll have to figure something else out for the clutch if I do that. 

 

I'm holding off on putting the sickle back together.  I actually thought the weld shop would just laugh at me wanting to fix that yoke, so I ordered a u-joint yoke that I think matches the dimensions thinking I might have to cut the broken ear off and weld a whole new one on.  I'm curious if the dimensions actually do match, and if so, we may have an alternative for these yokes if they are too far gone to repair.  It is supposed to arrive tomorrow or Friday.  I will post what I find when it comes. 

 

Dave

[WHX?? 49,579]

Thanks for the info Dave, given the age I would venture to guess that the wobble box has been into many times by a PO. I would think the Menards bushing would be OK if you don't  horse it...no pun intended . Good luck on the yoke tho .. I would be tempted to put the repaired one in, looks like your weld shop really beefed it up but if you go with a modified u joint let us know how it pans out. 

[dtallon 320]

To my surprise the yoke I ordered arrived already today.  (2 day shipping and it wasn't even Amazon Prime!).  If I hadn't been able to get the original welded up, I highly suspect I could have had this one turned down to use as a replacement.  I will definitely be keeping it just in case.  It is Neapco part 10-2817 and is made to weld onto the end of a driveshaft.  I started by finding the specs for a Dana-Spicer 1000-series yoke matched the spread and hole diameter of the Wheel Horse yoke.  The Dana-Spicer equivalent to this part, however, has the machined end hollowed out.  This one is as-cast on the end so you could turn it down to 3/4" if you needed to.  As an alternative to turning it down, they also make these to go on 3/4" keyed shafts, so I suspect you could cut the end of the yoke at the appropriate place and then weld a piece of 3/4" round stock into the hole.  

 

 

 

[dtallon 320]

I thought I would post a follow-up to my sickle mower experience from this Summer.  

 

I put it all back together with a new bushing and the repaired yoke.  It cut through some tall grass and weeds pretty well.  Most of my cutting was over the edge of a slight drop-off, so I was running it with the chain supporting it.  With the chain on there, the cut material didn't flow over the bar very well, so I had to stop regularly to clear it.  I think next year if I do it periodically instead of just once at the end of Summer it will work better.  

 

 

After mowing again at low idle to keep they sickle speed down with the original B100 PTO pulley, I decided I needed something different. I found a smaller pulley in my parts stash, and the foot clutch that came on my 854.  Installing the foot clutch was easier than I thought it might be.  I just had to drill a hole in the foot rest peg for a cotter pin for the pedal lock.  While installation went better than I expected, operation wasn't quite what I expected it to be.  The smaller pulley did do what I hoped it would.  I could easily operate at half throttle, which allowed the hystat to perform much better.  Unfortunately the chain I was using to hold up the sickle interfered with where I needed to put my foot to run the clutch.  I could make it work, but it was kind of a clumsy setup.  

 

 

So, the final verdict on the sickle mower is it did the work I bought it to do.  I'm not totally convinced there isn't a better tool to do the job, but until I find that tool, the sickle will work just fine. 

 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2017 by dtallon