Proper Brake and Drive Seal Installation

[mra132 1]

Hi Everyone, 

 

Last fall I picked up a 1977 C160 8-speed with a front end loader that is in need of some TLC.  After only a few hours of use, I started having transmission fluid leak out and was able to trace it back to the Brake seal and Drive seals on the left and right sides of the transmission case.  It started as a slow leak, but quickly grew to the point where it covered the base of a catch pan within a few days.   It was primarily coming out of the brake side, but I am in the process of replacing both just to be sure.  

I pulled the existing seals out this past weekend, and to my surprise they looked relatively new on the surface.  So my assumption is that they either were not installed correctly, or they were worn out too quickly due to damage from the axle. The axle does slide in and out very slightly, but there is no vertical movement to suggest that the internal bearings are bad- but I am no expert in this. 

 

I now have 2 questions:  

1) What is the proper direction/ orientation with which to install the brake seal?  Does the "cupped" side face inward or outward?  I assumed that the cupped portions face inward so that more of the rubber is in contact with the transmission housing, but wanted to confirm because I watched a YouTube video on a wheel horse axle seal replacement where the author instructed that the "cupped" side faced outward.  I have purchased SKF seals as replacements using the cross-tables to the original Toro/ WH part numbers.  I have included pictures of the existing seals as I was removing them for reference.  

2) What are some recommended "preparations" I can do to the brake/drive axle to clean the surface prior to installing the seal?  It looks like there might be some rust buildup or other buildup on the axle and especially near the transmission case that may contribute to premature seal wear, and I'd like to clean all that off before installing another seal.  Can I use an emery cloth or sandpaper similar to how you prep copper before sweating pipe? I don't want to take off any protective coating that may be on the axle as a corrosion inhibitor in the process. 

 

If more pictures or information would help, just let me know.  

 

Thanks for reading, 

 

 

[Racinbob 11,238]

It kinds looks like your seal was installed backwards but it's hard to be sure. To avoid any nomenclature confusion this is the side that faces in:

Assuming your bearings are in good shape make sure you get all the burrs off the shaft. I use a fine emery cloth until the shaft is glass smooth. Yes, like a plumber but I'd suggest finer. There's no protective coating but you're not really removing anything but burrs and rust. Pay close attention the the keyway. You can put a piece of tape (electrical) over the slot if you'd like but I don't. I spread a light coating of oil on the shaft and just slide it on. Make sure it's starting to seat properly and then gently drive it home. I use properly sized washers and short lengths of pvc pipe. The washer will allow you to set the seal perfectly flush with the case.

[953 nut 55,874]

      As Bob said, clean and lubricate the shafts, I use wet/dry 600 sand paper and a few drops of oil to clean the shafts.

While you have it apart you may want to contact @rmaynard to buy a new brake band pad;  looks like you may need it!

[Ed Kennell 38,715]

 to the MRA.         Always room for another Peeee Aaaaer.

 

    Looks like Bob and Richard have you covered with good advice.

[JC 1965 1,530]

[WHX?? 49,189]

4 hours ago, 953 nut said:

buy a new brake band pad; 

My thoughts exactly Dick

 

 mra

[oliver2-44 9,875]

In some situations where the shaft has a wear groove or pitting where the seal rides I've been able to put a shim (maybe .030 ths) behind the seal to move the rubber lip out onto smoother shaft.   I'm not experienced with this exact installation location, but if the shim doesn't interfere with the bearing on the inside of the case this might help you

[doc724 925]

As Racinbob said, the metal cup should be on the outside.  That way you can drill a couple of small holes into it, thread in some small sheet metal screws and then yank the seal out when it goes bad.  While I have been successful installing these on an 8 speed brake shaft, I seem to be missing the mark on hydro installation.  I use Racinbob's install method and have gotten them on, but that little flat on the brake shaft catches on the lip of the seal and damages it, resulting in a small leak.  When I install axle seals, I put tape over the keyways and slide the seals over and tap them in.  100% success rate.  I am going to have to try the tape trick on the next seal.  I hate having drips on the garage floor.

[pfrederi 17,895]

2 minutes ago, doc724 said:

As Racinbob said, the metal cup should be on the outside.  That way you can drill a couple of small holes into it, thread in some small sheet metal screws and then yank the seal out when it goes bad.  While I have been successful installing these on an 8 speed brake shaft, I seem to be missing the mark on hydro installation.  I use Racinbob's install method and have gotten them on, but that little flat on the brake shaft catches on the lip of the seal and damages it, resulting in a small leak.  When I install axle seals, I put tape over the keyways and slide the seals over and tap them in.  100% success rate.  I am going to have to try the tape trick on the next seal.  I hate having drips on the garage floor.

 

 

Keeps the underside of your tractor from rusting..also keeps down the dust...

[mra132 1]

Thanks everyone for the welcoming remarks and insights.  I'm a weekend warrior with tractor repair and unfortunately I'm probably not going to get around to replacing the seals until next weekend, but I'll let you know how it goes.   The brake band was starting to slide off before I removed it and is completely saturated so I will definitely replace it.  

 

As for all the grease and grime that's built up, what's the best type of degreaser to use for the outside of the transmission case and components?  I don't have a parts washer, and have already tried using a plastic putty knife/ bristle brush with engine degreaser to pull off some of the buildup with little success.  

[Texas Todd 1,025]

I've used a little bit of everything with good results. Simple Green is cheap and seems to work pretty well. A messy job for sure!

[doc724 925]

I use this stuff called Purple Power.  $5 a gallon at Walmart.  WD 40 is also a great degreaser, but costly