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Similar Content
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By wh315-8
My 50” D-series tiller input shaft has like 3/16” +\-, play pulling in or out. Anyone else have this same thing. Is it supposed to have that much play? Have it all apart and was thinking of adding a shim or 2nd thrust bearing to lessen the play to at least 1/16”.
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By PWL216
About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8. It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower. So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000. The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300.
Tractor
C-121 Auto $500
Solid engine mounts $50
Front End Loader
Johnson 10TC $1,000
Hydraulic fluid $35
Spare hydraulic hose $40
Ignition
Battery $35
Battery cables $20
Points & Condenser $20
Fuel
Carb & Gasket $65
Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
Air filter $10
Fuel filter $15
Fuel line $10
Spark plug $5
Decals and Paint
Decals $115
Paint $30
Lights
Headlight Lens $45
LED Headlights $25
Rear lights $25
Misc $200
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By PWL216
Howdy. I recently purchased a non-running 1277 with a Johnson 10 Loader from a fellow RS member. I bought it for the loader - to put on my C121, then I figured I’d just get rid of the 1277. Now I’m wondering if I should try and get it running and leave the loader on it. The motor turns by hand. I’ve tinkered with motors but never much more than the basics. The battery that’s in it is labeled 2017, so it probably was in use then. What’s the easiest option, swap the loader or try and get it running? What would you do? Thanks!
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By Workin_Horses
Kwikway loader that is currently on my 520H (Tractor not for Sale) with custom quick attach for switching between bucket and custom made pallet forks. The sub-frame allows it to fit some other models as well.
I designed and built the pallet forks and quick attach setup several years ago. Just remove 1 pin on each side to switch implements.
Forks are adjustable and removable. 2" box receiver built into fork rack
Also included is a custom rear axle suitcase weight bracket that holds up to 6 of the 43lb weights
You can bring a tractor and we can install it on your tractor here or bring a trailer and I can load onto a trailer for you.
Pictured TRACTOR and WEIGHTS NOT for Sale.
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By mmmmmdonuts
With a front end loader for these tractors how important is a ladder type subframe? Does the cross piece in the front have to connect where the towers are? Can the frame where the towers are just mount to the frame and go back to the transmission or is that cross piece critical where the towers mount? Could it be set further back with the same effect or would it not be the same? I know it is important to go back to the transmission so if you hit something you don't snap the frame, but how critical are the cross members?
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