Scottgoed 19 #1 Posted May 10, 2017 Well I bought my first wheel horse back in November from a co worker. It is a 520h, and ever since I've been bitten. But that's not what the title said you may of told yourself. I bought a 1977 c160 auto this past weekend and I plan to do a restoration to it. I've been a lurker on the forum until now. Hopefully I can get some insight from you guys. I am a mechanic by trade so I feel pretty optimistic about the whole idea. I don't plan to break any speed records, and I do plan to do everything the right way.(at least my way😉) And some more pictures since I know everyone likes pictures 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #2 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) I'm going to start by going through the things I know I need first. Front matching tires-thinking turf masters. Spring is either gone or broken on brake. PTO brake is missing hopefully you guys can help with that. Deck needs straightening in the front and new center roller/wheel. Seat replacement- any recommendations Want to try and get the bugs worked out of her before the tear down begins. Edited May 10, 2017 by Scottgoed 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,012 #4 Posted May 10, 2017 Awe 1977 C160 the last of the truly great Wheel Horses. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 39,168 #5 Posted May 10, 2017 Chris said it! I luv my Hydros and my Ceees. I'll say it again, chain that hydro horse to a tree and make sure the hydro is strong enough to spin the tires and dig holes. The C-160 is a great tractor worth restoring. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jellyghost 378 #6 Posted May 10, 2017 Do you know about the guy who makes the new stickers? If you don't care about historical accuracy, I think a bass boat seat is a nice upgrade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,162 #7 Posted May 10, 2017 Lots of good helpful folks on here, look forward to your restoration. Take a look at the "Vendor" section on here for the parts you may need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #8 Posted May 10, 2017 The C-160 is the BEST ever made, IMHO. However, I prefer the 1974 and 75 models that have a flip-up fender and tool box underneath. The 76 and 77 years (C-120 and C-160) don't have that tool box and use a 'Fender Bracket' instead which could accommodate an under-seat fuel tank. While the fuel tank for the 76 and 77s are still under the hood, this 'change-over' fender bracket was also adopted to make a change in how the rear implements would attach to the tractor. It is a similar setup to the 300 400 and 500 series, but a wider 'bell crank or 'rock shaft' is used to accommodate the wider fender bracket. Probably not in your immediate resto needs, but keep in mind that I have that wider 'rock shaft' when / if you get to it. Here is a pic of it and the wider fender bracket (105527) in the schematic. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #9 Posted May 10, 2017 Thanks for the encouragement. I will be using redoyourhorse when the time comes. Guess I'm going to have to test the rear in some way. we shall see. Anyone have a wheel horse dyno! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #10 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) Well did a little tinkering. installed a battery. Cleaned the contacts in the ignition switch, and she fired right up and even idled. Mowed a little hastily but not too bad Performed a compression test after test run, seems a little low got 90 psi not sure what spec is. All in all not bad for original 40 year old engine. Transmission seems to operate smoothly in forward and reverse. One of the lines from the front of the lift cylinder to the valve is leaking I will have to address as well. Edited May 10, 2017 by Scottgoed 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #11 Posted May 10, 2017 Few things to address. The knob on the front attachamatic is broken.(will be contacting glen for a few things) The release on the mid attachamatic is bent simple fix with some channel locks. There is a small spring on the pto engagement shaft. Is this factory? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #12 Posted May 10, 2017 That little spring is an anti-rattler.. yes, it is OEM. I also have that NEW FRONT KNOB for the Mule drive...and can send it with the rockshaft... PLEASE....contact me at my email address..lutside of Red Sq and we can arrange for that tohappen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #13 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) What attaches the lift mechanism to the deck from the factory I'm guessing it's not a big bolt with even bigger nut as a spacer. also iam not having much luck sourcing a pto brake(I need the whole shaft, bracket and brake) Edited May 10, 2017 by Scottgoed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #14 Posted May 10, 2017 You have a broken lift bar..... that bolt should be a SOLID WELDED STUD... It slips into the OBLONG hole in the mower deck lift hardware. I have this whole part.... if needed ... contace me thru my email.... daveoman@windstream.net 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #15 Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) That's what I thought I will be repairing mine thanks for the quick reply though. You don't have the pto brake do you any good places to get the front center roller on the mower deck Edited May 10, 2017 by Scottgoed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #16 Posted May 11, 2017 I also have the front cetner roller.... how many you need? ? ? contact me in regular emails....off the Red Square forum. my email is: daveoman@windstream.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #17 Posted May 12, 2017 Worked on her a little this morning looks like the deck got ran into something, but nothing a little heat and persuasion can't fix Also removed the carb and breather for cleaning and also going to perform a valve adjustment upon reassembly. Pretty sure none of this has been done in a very long time. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #18 Posted May 12, 2017 I'm pretty sure the starter relay is wired incorrectly they have one of the small control side wires wired right to the big positive side of the switch I'll take a picture tomorrow any one know whe someone might do this other than not knowing what they're doing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #19 Posted May 19, 2017 Got to do little more to the old girl. Performed a quick cleaning and mouse nest removal under the floor plate, and to the rear end. Serviced fluids (napa sae 30, and napa 10-30)and changed hydro filter with a napa 1410. Also started working on the wheels. Got some front tires from a local discount tire store. Can't complain for $24 each. And here's a little before and after. Using duplicolor Wimbledon white and clear. I've seen these holes on the hood on some others too. Wandering if any one has some info on them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,162 #20 Posted May 19, 2017 On 5/10/2017 at 1:55 PM, Scottgoed said: One of the lines from the front of the lift cylinder to the valve is leaking I will have to address as well. Most shops don't have the fittings to make hoses for our but @wheelhorseman1000 can fix you up and his prices are reasonable. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scottgoed 19 #21 Posted May 20, 2017 They're already ordered from him.😁 Have some other goodies in transit. hopefully will get them soon, and the tear down will commence 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,155 #22 Posted May 20, 2017 The holes in the hood look like someone has added lights to it in the past. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites