K241 disassembly help

[cafoose 3,355]

Can anyone tell me how to remove this cover behind the flywheel on a K241? I removed the four bolts from behind where the flywheel was and it's loose but I don't want to pry too hard and break it. Are there any gaskets or seals I need to replace when I reinstall it? I'm converting a GT-14 to points and condenser and I just need to get the wires pulled through. This is my donor motor. It has a broken rod.

[rmaynard 15,610]

There is a large bearing that is seated into that bearing plate. It will sometimes prevent the plate from coming off easily. Since the plate is loose, stick a couple flat blade screwdrivers between it and the block,then tap on the end of the crankshaft with a hammer, protecting the threads with a wooden block. You will need new bearing plate gaskets. shims, and an oil seal when re-assembling it.

[cafoose 3,355]

49 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

There is a large bearing that is seated into that bearing plate. It will sometimes prevent the plate from coming off easily. Since the plate is loose, stick a couple flat blade screwdrivers between it and the block,then tap on the end of the crankshaft with a hammer, protecting the threads with a wooden block. You will need new bearing plate gaskets. shims, and an oil seal when re-assembling it.

Got it Bob. Where is a good place to get a seal and gasket and where are the shims I need and what are the part numbers? 

[stevasaurus 22,872]

Go onto E-Bay and search "Kohler 241 parts"  

[WHX?? 49,177]

if that don't work out caboose try pats small engine plus. Make sure you get the complete set with spacer gaskets as that's what sets the end play.

[cafoose 3,355]

2 hours ago, WHX11 said:

if that don't work out caboose try pats small engine plus. Make sure you get the complete set with spacer gaskets as that's what sets the end play.

I'm thinking of putting the bearing plate from the K241 on the GT-14 because I need to remove the plate off the GT-14 anyway to feed the wires behind it and the plate from the K241 is set up for the alternator winding from it that I'm using on the GT-14 anyway. How do I determine the crankshaft end play and adjust it when using the K241 bearing plate on the GT-14? Found this on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=k241+bearing+plate+gasket&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xkohler+bearing+plate+gasket.TRS0&_nkw=kohler+bearing+plate+gasket&_sacat=0

 

Which of these seals do I need?

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=kohler+bearing+plate+gasket&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xkohler+crankshaft+seal.TRS0&_nkw=kohler+crankshaft+seal&_sacat=0

 

[Shynon 7,461]

1 hour ago, cafoose said:

I need to remove the plate off the GT-14 anyway to feed the wires behind it

If you remove the wires from the black connector plugged into the rectifier the wires will come through the hole in the plate without removing the bearing plate.

[Digger 66 3,488]

8 hours ago, cafoose said:

How do I determine the crankshaft end play and adjust it when using the K241 bearing plate on the GT-14? Found this on ebay:

 

Dang good question , was wondering that myself . 

Looking forward to the answer ......

[rmaynard 15,610]

11 hours ago, cafoose said:

How do I determine the crankshaft end play and adjust it when using the K241 bearing plate on the GT-14?

 

First of all, if the engine is a K-321, it should be the same as a K241. Did you check the Kohler K-Series Service Manual? Here is the page right out of the manual.

 

[cafoose 3,355]

17 hours ago, rmaynard said:

 

First of all, if the engine is a K-321, it should be the same as a K241. Did you check the Kohler K-Series Service Manual? Here is the page right out of the manual.

 

Looks to me like the oil pan needs to be removed and the bearing plate installed  and torqued with .020 gasket next to block and .010 gasket next to bearing plate. Clearance should be checked on PTO side between inner race of rear bearing and shoulder of crankshaft accessed from underneath where oil pan was installed correct?

[rmaynard 15,610]

That sounds correct.

I have used as few as zero shim gaskets, and as many as four. All depends on the engine and how much play you want. The manual does allow for a lot of variation (.003" to .020").

[cafoose 3,355]

On 5/6/2017 at 5:20 PM, cafoose said:

Where is a good place to get a seal and gasket and where are the shims I need and what are the part numbers? 

I think I just answered my own question C2, C3, for gaskets and F1 for seal:

 

On 5/6/2017 at 9:49 PM, Shynon said:

If you remove the wires from the black connector plugged into the rectifier the wires will come through the hole in the plate without removing the bearing plate.

I think you're right it seems like a real pain to remove the bearing plate and then I would need to remove the oil pan to check the crankshaft end play and get a new seal and gaskets and shims just to feed wires through.

[cafoose 3,355]

On 5/6/2017 at 9:49 PM, Shynon said:

If you remove the wires from the black connector plugged into the rectifier the wires will come through the hole in the plate without removing the bearing plate.

  @Shynon that worked out great! I used a dental pick I have in my toolbox yesterday and was able to remove the black connector and feed the wires through! I reinstalled the flywheel and shroud then ran out of time. All I need to do now is put the coil and ignition switch on and finish the wiring and the electrical part is done. Then on to the fuel system and put a battery in it then I can start it.

[Searcher60 209]

Gee, nobody recommends a cheap steering wheel puller. Pulls the bearing plate off in a few seconds without screwing up anything. Also, if you can scrape off a piece of the old gasket, measure its thickness, you will know what the thickness of the new gasket/shim package will most likely be. You still need to check, but usually it is the same. 

[cafoose 3,355]

3 hours ago, Searcher60 said:

if you can scrape off a piece of the old gasket, measure its thickness, you will know what the thickness of the new gasket/shim package will most likely be. You still need to check, but usually it is the same. 

Good point I never thought of that however I did not have to remove the bearing plate on the GT-14. I was able to feed the wires through the holes in back of the plate. If I decide to fix the K241 I will probably rebuild it anyway due to the broken rod and then check the end play.