pacer 3,174 #1 Posted May 5, 2017 I am about to go into the Sundstrand hydro on my D-200 because reverse has gradually been getting slower. Have just corrected an oil leak on my D-180's hydro motor which gave me a pretty good education on the how its made up and how to remove/repair it. The 180 was performing perfectly and therefore I could see nothing wrong with it and just put it back together - with new O rings. (I did not remove the pump) So, when I get into the 200 what should I look for to spot a slow reverse problem? I havent had this tractor very long and therefore know nothing about its history - it had no hour meter so no help there, but overall it is a good solid tractor with little to no "modifications" I plan to remove the entire drive system - pump, motor and diff for a good inspection of everything. I have the manual printed up and have scoured the couple extensive postings in the instructional threads and videos section (great info!!) so I feel pretty comfortable with the tear down aspect of it (looks like a pretty big job - course the D's arent known to be easily worked on!) So back again to my question, where will be a likely point to find a problem with the slow reverse? Wear in the slippers/swash plate area causing loss of pressure? Maybe in the fwd/rev mechanisms? Plugged oil passages, some are awfully small, causing loss of pressure? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #2 Posted May 5, 2017 (edited) If it works OK forward and the lift is strong i would suspect first a linkage issue. D's lonkages are messy. Is your an old one with the two slots for the motion lever to the rear...one was a brake one was reverse. Mine has two slot but the linkage was set up for a parking brake on the instrument panel. Guess WH wanted to use up old hood stands. I would go over the linkage carefully while it is still running. if that doesn't fix it the reverse then second choice will be reverse acceleration valve. The bleed hole is truly tiny....I would think that would have been more sudden as a problem. If you have to go in I have o rings and backers for the manifold you can have Edited May 5, 2017 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,909 #3 Posted May 5, 2017 18 minutes ago, pfrederi said: reverse acceleration valve. The springs that regulate the acceleration valve movement can brake and the difference is remarkable. @refracman hooked me up with a source for the springs a few years back and it really made my hydro come back to life. If one of the springs is bad I would replace all four. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"D"- Man 827 #4 Posted May 5, 2017 (edited) 24 minutes ago, 953 nut said: The springs that regulate the acceleration valve movement can brake and the difference is remarkable. @refracman hooked me up with a source for the springs a few years back and it really made my hydro come back to life. If one of the springs is bad I would replace all four. Keep in mind we are talking about three springs in the motor {plus the springs in the pump.} The motor has one that is between the forward and reverse valve and one each that are in the valves themselves. I have uploaded pics in my How To Make An 18 Automatic Into A 23 Automatique LSE reply #57 showing these springs, from my 18 Automatic. Edited May 5, 2017 by "D"- Man 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,174 #5 Posted May 6, 2017 Forward motion is very strong as well as the deck lift (no 3 point) The shifter on the 200 has the single slot with P brake on the panel under the dash --- but my D-189 has/had the double slot and it would easily get the linkage all snarled up - poor design!! My 160 has a small plate bolted there to block that position off, I copied it and put one on the 180 much better! The acceleration valves may be accessible while mounted on the tractor - I'll look and see tomorrow, but I kinda doubt it would be plugged, this problem has been slow coming on. I have another known good motor and since it can be changed without that involved process of tearing the whole thing down, I just may hang the replacement motor on and see if that helps.... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #6 Posted May 6, 2017 While you have the motor off look in to check your filter screen and your parking pawl. PM you address i will send you the 6 o rings you will need. I bought in bulk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
