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By cJ_3D
Hello everyone!
Thought I would post a new thread on this as I wasn't able to find the information I was looking for. But I'm trying to get this drive belt on my 252-H and no matter what I try I can't get it on. I got a 1/2" x 76" so I know its the correct size belt. I followed the steps outlined in the manual which I've attached, and is shown on page 15. So I loosened the cross bar nuts and the flat idler adjustment pulley. And followed the routing from this guide: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/wheel_horse_hydro_252-h_drive_belt.asp
I just can't get enough slack on it to get it over the engine pulley! Right now it's pinched up between the body and the pulley so possibly I can't get enough leverage, do I need to somehow work it from below the pulley? Doesn't help the pulley keeps coming off the shaft so I have it propped up using a scissor jack which is cumbersome to work around. I don't have a shop or anyway I can think of to safely stand the mower up and not sure about tipping it on it's side. Anyone who has done this particular belt on this mower before have any tips or suggestions for how to get this thing on?
Thanks for the help friends!
CJ
492-4003 Eaton 7 & Peerless 1320 SM.pdf
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By Snoopy11
Hello my fine people,
A while ago I got a PM from a member who was not familiar with packing bearings on idler pulleys. I told that particular member that I would make an instructional thread about idler pulleys, so here we go.
Repacking idler pulley bearings only applies if your pulleys move correctly. That may seem obvious, but let me explain further.
Pulley movement is a good sign that your pulley is still functional and sound, but that is not the end of the story. If your pulley freewheels, that is, you take the pulley and spin it, and it has no resistance, that means that your pulley is probably good, but needs to be repacked with grease. However, if you lay the pulley flat on a workbench, and attempt to move the inside bearing race side to side, left to right, and there is obvious movement, your pulley bearings are bad and I recommend you invest in a new pulley.
Investing in a new pulley does not mean that you are done. You still need to pack the bearings. See below for instructions.
If your pulley does not move at all, the chances are that the inside of your pulley looks like this, and you must invest in a new pulley.
Step 1 in repacking pulley bearings on an OLD idler pulley is to remove the dust caps from the pulley bearings. You can do this with a small pick, but I have found that a combination of a box-cutter blade and very small scewdriver works perfectly to remove the caps. Be careful not to damage the dust caps when you remove them, or bend them excessively.
The next step is to clean the bearings out with the penetrant oil of your choice. My choice is PB Blaster because that is what I have in stock.
Bearings before cleaning:
Same bearings after cleaning:
Much better, right?
If you desire, you can take a stiff toothbrush and get into the bearings a bit to clean them even better. Make sure to flush the bearings very well with your penetrating oil.
Dry the pulley and bearings as best as you can before proceeding to the next step in repacking.
The next step is to get yourself a very small screwdriver, and use the grease of your choice (I recommend Lucas Red and Tacky). Press the grease into the bearings until the bearing area of the pulley is full of grease. Turn the pulley over, and do the same thing to the other side of the pulley, packing grease on the other side of the bearings.
After pulley is full of grease, press the bearing caps back into place with 2 small screwdrivers. Ensure that the caps go all the way in, squeezing out a bit of grease around the edges of the pulley bearings.
Wipe the excess grease off the pulley.
You will notice that the pulley bearings have MUCH more resistance to movement. This is completely normal, and is exactly what you want.
You have successfully repacked your pulley bearings!
Special thanks to @peter lena for teaching us all about greasing our machines!
Don
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By drewd
Hi All, I have a 71 or 72 Model # 101006, Serial # 790336. Model number chart says 71 but the paper for the engine has a print code 72. The closest I could find was for models 1-3745 & 1-3741.
Two questions. I finally need to replace the drive belt. This manual list the belt as # 1576.
Two questions:
1) Does anyone know what size that translates to? I do have the old belt but the inside edge is falling apart so it will measure a little longer than it should.
2) This tractor has the electric clutch. What is the best way to remove the belt?
As always...Thanks!
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By Mike Compton
Hi there, sorry if this is a repeat question. Anyone have a pic or diagram of how to reassemble the pulleys / tensioner, and how to route the belt? One more...what are the 4 holes for at the rear of the seat deck (above the logo decal)?
Cheers,
Mike
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By Reeferred
Need help,. 244-h model 72041 newer. The drive belt keeps coming off is it to lose, to tight? Any ideas would be great
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