Oil drain tube for Kohler K181S

[sscotsman 186]

The video is the message!

thanks,

Scot

 

 

Edited April 26, 2017 by sscotsman

[Rob R 970]

Hi you need to put the pipe you have in a good vise and with a pipe wrench remove the round plug take this pipe to home depot buy a 90 degree fitting for the end and a pipe plug.... voila?

[WHX?? 50,738]

Nice video Scot, thanks

Go to your local hardware store or big box and browse the selection of 3/8 NPT (national pipe thread) nipples found in the plumbing isles.  They should have them in black iron or galvanized it doers not matter which you choose. You should also find elbows and hex caps there too. What you showed is original as every horse I have that is original has exactly what you showed. Some do drain out the front tho.

I often add a 45 degree ell or a 90 to get the drain oil away from the frame and into a suitable container. My single goal in life is to do a simple oil change just once without making a mess!

I have seen some guys put a valve in there to make oil changes easier put you still want to cap or plug it. You don't want to have that valve bumped open while enjoying seat time!

Here is one of my oil drain piping jobs. I do this on all of my outdoor power stuff to make oil changes easier.

[Racinbob 11,726]

http://ezoildrainvalve.com/

 

Here's what I did Scott. I used an elbow and ran the pipe to the side like yours and then put one of these on the end. Search the site for a 1/2" npt. I'd suggest using one with the nipple. Simply slip a length of tube on it and drain the oil into the container.

[WHX?? 50,738]

Some small engines are 1/4 npt  but most of our horses are 3/8". use a pipe dope or Teflon tape on the threads , also found in the plumbing isles. You can also use Loctite on the threads you don't want to have to come apart when unthreading to cap.

That's pretty nifty Bob, what size threads do they come in?

Edited April 26, 2017 by WHX11

[Racinbob 11,726]

4 minutes ago, WHX11 said:

Nice video Scot, thanks

Go to your local hardware store or big box and browse the selection of 3/8 NPT (national pipe thread) nipples found in the plumbing isles.  They should have them in black iron or galvanized it doers not matter which you choose. You should also find elbows and hex caps there too. What you showed is original as every horse I have that is original has exactly what you showed. Some do drain out the front tho.

I often add a 45 degree ell or a 90 to get the drain oil away from the frame and into a suitable container. My single goal in life is to do a simple oil change just once without making a mess!

I have seen some guys put a valve in there to make oil changes easier put you still want to cap or plug it. You don't want to have that valve bumped open while enjoying seat time!

Here is one of my oil drain piping jobs. I do this on all of my outdoor power stuff to make oil changes easier.

 

 

These valves are pretty much impossible to accidentally open Jim. I've used them for many years on my vehicles and tractors. Also, it might be 3/8" npt and not 1/2". I don't remember and a quick run to the tractor isn't as easy now.

[WHX?? 50,738]

WHAT?? no more quick tape measures??

[Racinbob 11,726]

Well, not as many anyways. The tractors are in the garage down the hill and I'm old.

[WHX?? 50,738]

Sorry Scot.... Bob and I got just a little

Your whole thread here is a good subject and it's great to see fellas changing their oil religiously. One of the most simplest maintenance thing you can do & cheaper & easier than having to do a motor refresh. I'm sure others will be along with some more ideas on how to make it even easier.

[oldlineman 1,495]

Not to side track this thread, but is the drain plug on a 1989 414-8, 3114k804,  35323 a 1/2 X 14 plug. Was going to take with me to check but don't want to drain good oil out.I am going to do what Racinbob did with the EZ drain, looks like a great idea. I checked my plug and it measures about 5/8" outside and about 1/2" inside, not sure what thread count is though. Looked on EZ site and only drain in 1/2" is 14 thread. Thank you for any and all responses. Bob

[Tankman 3,520]

I like elbows and use pipe plugs. A little pipe dope on the threads.

Also keep high and out of harms way.

 

Edited April 26, 2017 by Tankman

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243]

1/4" pipe has an OD of .540" (Almost 9/16") 18 threads per inch

3/8" pipe has an OD of .675" (Almost 11/16") 18 threads per inch

1/2" pipe has an OD of .840" (Almost 7/8") 14 threads per inch

3/4" pipe has an OD of 1.050" (Almost 1-1/16") 14 threads per inch

1" pipe has an OD of 1.315" (Almost 1-5/16") 11.5 threads per inch

 

Garry

[oldlineman 1,495]

Thank you Garry

[sscotsman 186]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! much appreciated..

I'll probably make a trip to Home Depot this weekend to take a look at various piping and cap bits, see if anything stands out, now that I know what thread size I need..

 

I also like the: http://ezoildrainvalve.com/ idea..that looks good!

 

I'll update this thread when I have something in place..

thanks!

Scot

 

[Sarge 3,464]

I use either steel or brass 3/8"NPT pipe. Get a new length of it (probably 6" on that engine) and either a brass 90* female fitting or an elbow in steel and another 6" length of pipe. This way it can be routed down below the flywheel cover and closer to the front axle to make oil changes a breeze. There is nothing wrong with the smooth OEM cap - instead, it's the pliers you're using. No offense, but I used to be a fan of Channelock tools being made in the USA but their plier design is pathetic and results in nothing but tearing up fasteners and smashing fingers. Give yourself a present and get 2 pairs of 10" Knipex Cobra pliers - you will not believe how much grip those generate without slipping. The jaws and their teeth are far harder and wear resistant compared to Channelock - the Knipex are nearly impossible to wear out. Yes, they are quite expensive but should last a lifetime. All of my Channelock pliers have been retired to the workbox in the truck for work - if they are stolen - I do not care. The truly worn out pairs will be used to build metal art, lol.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8701250-10-Inch-Cobra-Pliers/dp/B000X4J2H0

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-250/100668982

 

You can clean out that existing 90* pipe fitting that is in the oil pan with brake cleaner and install the new pipe using red Locktite - that will help keep it from moving once you tighten everything up and let it cure. I don't care for the tubing type oil drains unless the valve is located ahead of the tubing at the engine. Otherwise, if the tubing fails - there goes your oil with it. Fumoto makes a 3/8" NPT drain valve that has a lock that prevents the valve from being opened - I've used their valves on my off-road trucks and never had one issue, they make a truly well-built product.

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php?make=47&year=9999&model=26515&makeid=KOHLER&modelid=Small+engines+with+NPT-3%2F8+plug

 

Sarge