Brian1054 29 #1 Posted April 13, 2017 So today I am trying to check the transmission fluid on my new to me 1054 when the square end of the plug shears off. Not good, but I get the propane torch and liquid wrench out and proceed to try to get some lube in the threads before I go any farther. While its soaking I get the drill and easy out. Simple job, done it a hundred times...... Well not this time, this time the casing splits and a chunk falls off. Just the bottom portion of the threads. 2 questions. #1 would brazing this back on be durable enough to last until I can find a replacement? I'm not sure because of the oil and having to get it lined up perfectly for the threads. #2 what other wheel horse tractors have the same housing? The 1054 and 953 are kinda scarce around here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,352 #2 Posted April 13, 2017 PM gnlark here. He may have a rear end Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #3 Posted April 13, 2017 Here are other tractors of approx same vintage, with 4 speed trans. MAYBE they have the same case sides, OR... maybe a complete trans would swap over...not sure mod. year mod tr eng & spec hp trans model 551 1961 551 4-Speed Tecumseh H55D-2113 5.5 Wheel Horse 5007 701 1961 701 4-Speed Kohler K161S-28622E 7 Wheel Horse 5007 400 1960 Surburban 4-Speed Kohler K91-31388A 4 Wheel Horse 5010 550 1960 Surburban 4-Speed Tecumseh H55B-1170 5.5 Wheel Horse 5010 401 1961 401 4-Speed Kohler K91-41437A 4 Wheel Horse 5010 502 1962 502 4-Speed Tecumseh HT55C-3088 5.5 Wheel Horse 5025 552 1962 552 4-Speed Tecumseh HT55C-3089 5.5 Wheel Horse 5025 702 1962 702 4-Speed Kohler K161S-28622E 7 Wheel Horse 5025 603 1963 603 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75016 6 Wheel Horse 5025 633 1963 633 4-Speed Kohler K141T-29102A 7 Wheel Horse 5025 653 1963 653 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75009 6 Wheel Horse 5025 753 1963 753 4-Speed Kohler K161S-28626E 7 Wheel Horse 5025 854 1964 854 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30108A 8 Wheel Horse 5025 1045 1965 1045 4-Speed Kohler K241AS-46219A 10 Wheel Horse 5025 607 1967 607 4-Speed Tecumseh HH60-105014B 6 Wheel Horse 5043 953 1963 953 4-Speed Kohler K241S-46135A 9.6 Wheel Horse 5045 604 1964 604 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75064B 6 Wheel Horse 5046 704 1964 704 4-Speed Kohler K161T-28937E 7 Wheel Horse 5046 1054 1964 1054 4-Speed Kohler K241S-46215A 10 Wheel Horse 5047 654 1964 654 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75063B 6 Wheel Horse 5049 605 1965 605 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75118D 6 Wheel Horse 5049 655 1965 655 4-Speed Tecumseh H60-75117D 6 Wheel Horse 5049 855 1965 855 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30108A 8 Wheel Horse 5049 1055 1965 1055 4-Speed Kohler K241AS-46219A 10 Wheel Horse 5049 606 1966 606 4-Speed Tecumseh HH60-105014A 6 Wheel Horse 5053 656 1966 656 4-Speed Tecumseh HH60-105013A 6 Wheel Horse 5053 856 1966 856 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30108D 8 Wheel Horse 5053 1056 1966 1056 4-Speed Kohler K241AS-46333D 10 Wheel Horse 5053 657 1967 657 4-Speed Tecumseh HH60-105013B 6 Wheel Horse 5053 857 1967 857 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30108D 8 Wheel Horse 5053 1057 1967 1057 4-Speed Kohler K241S-46333D 10 Wheel Horse 5058 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #4 Posted April 13, 2017 Thanks guys. I have looked through the forums enough to know that the internals are different but didn't know if the case was. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,909 #5 Posted April 13, 2017 The answer to your question is a yes and no kind of thing, Any of the 5XXX series transmissions (four speed, six speed or eight speed) could be bolted in place of yours. The hubs from your 1054 are 1 1/8" and that would eliminate any that have a 1" axle. I have a six speed froma 1267 (1967 model) in one of my 953s, had to drill a couple of mounting holes but otherwise an easy swap. 9 hours ago, Brian1054 said: #1 would brazing this back on be durable enough to last until I can find a replacement? I'm not sure because of the oil and having to get it lined up perfectly for the threads. I don't think you could braze ti back togather, it might be able to be patched with JB Weld. 9 hours ago, Brian1054 said: #2 what other wheel horse tractors have the same housing? 953/1054/1054A were a stand alone transaxle, the internals are the same on others but not ths case. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #6 Posted April 13, 2017 I was hoping that the bevel gears and longer axles were the main difference between the 4 speeds and they just used the same housing. Kind of figures though, since I had to grind off bolts to check the hydraulic fluid. Looks like I'm in for a long road to getting this to where I can use it. Someone recently posted an add on cl for a 1054 that looked kinda rough for $525. To me it seems kinda high for a donor machine, but I'm sort of new to wheel horse so I could be wrong. Thanks for the replies guys. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,827 #7 Posted April 13, 2017 You could disassemble your transmission & have the hole welded. Then drill & tap a new hole for the plug. This would be more involved but it would be a way to save your cases. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #8 Posted April 13, 2017 23 minutes ago, Achto said: You could disassemble your transmission & have the hole welded. Then drill & tap a new hole for the plug. This would be more involved but it would be a way to save your cases. Good idea. Lol, though the way my luck is going it may give new meaning to splitting the case 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,883 #9 Posted April 13, 2017 You might try to send a PM to @racinfool40 (Mike). He was selling and rebuilding transmissions. He is also on FaceBook with the Wheel Horse Junkies. He might have the case, the whole trans or maybe even the one side you need. The right hand side is #4160...left side #4161. Like was said...the 953, 1054 and 1054A use the same case part numbers. The 1057 and 1257 share the same type of transmission...ie...1 1/8" axles with a bevel gear differential, but the case part numbers are different. #6940 / #6941. This case may have the same bolt pattern though and maybe could just bolt on. All of the other transmissions have a different bolt pattern for mounting to the frame. Drilling new holes in the frame makes it possible to use any other transmission. I would bet that your case could be fixed...nickel weld or brazed by a good welding shop. It would be nice to see some pictures of what you have. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #10 Posted April 13, 2017 Oh shoot! I was so upset by it breaking I forgot to post mandatory pics Here's the problem 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,909 #11 Posted April 13, 2017 3 hours ago, Brian1054 said: on cl for a 1054 that looked kinda rough for $525. To me it seems kinda high for a donor machine As much as we love our it seems some people out there think they are gold plated. We tend to be reasonable on pricing with our fellow members to help keep our horses going. You could contact A-Z Tractor, one of the vendors on here, he is very good. aztractor255@gmail.com Good luck and keep us posted. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #12 Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) There isn't much if any stress on that point. Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld They have a putty version that should not flow into the case. Edited April 13, 2017 by pfrederi 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #13 Posted April 13, 2017 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: There isn't much if any stress on that point. Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld They have a putty version that should not flow into the case. I'm not real familiar with jb weld, would it hold up well enough to removing the plug to check oil every week or so? You guys are giving me hope that I may get to use this to plow the garden with this year after all! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,909 #14 Posted April 13, 2017 6 hours ago, 953 nut said: it might be able to be patched with JB Weld. 3 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld Well, we have two votes for JB Weld; the only thing I would add is to wrap the threads with Teflon tape and hope the plug will back out. I hope you don't need to check the transaxle every week, unless it is leaking a LOT! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #15 Posted April 13, 2017 5 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Well, we have two votes for JB Weld; the only thing I would add is to wrap the threads with Teflon tape and hope the plug will back out. I hope you don't need to check the transaxle every week, unless it is leaking a LOT! Lol, well I did notice a little moisture around the axle seal which is what made me decide to check/ change the oil in the first place. And I'm kinda picky about maintenance. We thought this was an older restoration, but as it turns out they just painted it, didn't even bother to clean the grease off in areas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,883 #16 Posted April 13, 2017 If you have the piece that came out, it probably is a good fit. I would just get it brazed back in. While JB weld is really good for what it is made for, I have not had much luck with it with castings that have been oil soaked. As far as a plug, they make rubber expanding plugs that size that would work and not use the threads. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,464 #17 Posted April 13, 2017 A combination of spray carb cleaner followed by non-chlorinated brake cleaner does a good job of getting oil out of the casting pores. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #18 Posted April 13, 2017 I don't think you need the plug to be usable. Unless you a leaking a whole lot of oil if you drain it and put 2 qts in ever year or so through the gear shift hole or one of the bolts on top you wouldn't have any issues. Just thought this would be easier than taking it somewhere to have it brazed. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,909 #19 Posted April 13, 2017 Keep it working and be able to come up with the needed parts without any time pressure for a future rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #20 Posted April 13, 2017 Just went and had a chat with the neighbor. His son works at a weld shop and is going to take a look at it sunday evening if not before. Seems it may work out being far easier to get fixed than I was thinking. Thanks for all the suggestions, you guys have helped me with a lot of problems before I even signed up for this site. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,883 #21 Posted April 13, 2017 I agree with Paul. You do not really need that plug. You could probably fiber glass that hole and be OK. Make a dip stick to put through one of those bolt holes with a scratch to know where the level should be. I think you are going to want to take this trans apart any way...just because it would be easier to work on that hole. Is my backyard mechanic showing?? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #22 Posted April 13, 2017 3 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: I agree with Paul. You do not really need that plug. You could probably fiber glass that hole and be OK. Make a dip stick to put through one of those bolt holes with a scratch to know where the level should be. I think you are going to want to take this trans apart any way...just because it would be easier to work on that hole. Is my backyard mechanic showing?? That may be the plan, eventually. But first I need another horse, like you guys say you can never have just one. Just too handy to be without for very long. I am hopeful of getting a moldboard plow in time for getting the garden in this year. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P3x 56 #23 Posted May 7, 2017 If the chunk that fell out is in tact another option is to clean the area as mentioned above (Brake Cleaner) or MEK and use MarineTex Gray to reattach it. It's a high temperature epoxy "impervious" to oil, diesel fuels, etc. Used it many moons ago to seal a crack on a Gray Marine Fireball 6 engine water jacket and did the trick. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #24 Posted May 7, 2017 I would be tempted to JB-Weld the old piece back in place but instead of using the pipe plug install a short pipe nipple and cap. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian1054 29 #25 Posted May 7, 2017 9 minutes ago, Molon_Labe said: I would be tempted to JB-Weld the old piece back in place but instead of using the pipe plug install a short pipe nipple and cap. This was the way I went and used some of the epoxy putty been working great for a couple weeks now 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
