Raider 12 Modifications

[JPWH 6,147]

If all goes as planned it will be a 6 speed, 12 hp, long frame round hood with foot conrolled hydraulic lift.

 

[19richie66 17,532]

I'm loving this build. Can't wait to see more. 

Edited June 28, 2017 by 19richie66

[JPWH 6,147]

A little progress today. I pulled the 8hp motor, installed the new fan gear and shaft, and the new steering wheel shaft. I went to change the.oil pan on the new 12 hp and it would not work. So I set the motor in as is to see if it  would fit.

[953 nut 56,185]

21 minutes ago, JPWH said:

oil pan on the new 12 hp and it would not work. So I set the motor in as is to see if it  would fit.

OH NO, guess those Yellow engines are just contrary! You can always go with a 1/4" steel plate to mount the engine.

[JPWH 6,147]

3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

OH NO, guess those Yellow engines are just contrary! You can always go with a 1/4" steel plate to mount the engine.

I have a new gasket to go with your newly blasted oil pan. Lol

[JPWH 6,147]

9 hours ago, 953 nut said:

OH NO, guess those Yellow engines are just contrary! You can always go with a 1/4" steel plate to mount the engine. 

I thought about that but it would put the motor too high. If I notch the one side of the frame about 1" x 4" and then use 3/8" plate it would probably fit but I need to maintain frame strength.

Edited July 2, 2017 by JPWH

[19richie66 17,532]

If you notched the frame and then welded a 3/8" thick plate about 12" long between the framerails, i dont think you would have strength issues. I would weld it in and then notch the frame with a cutoff wheel to keep everything straight. Too bad you weren't a little closer. I have a complete engine out of a 1056 that would fit in there nicely with starter/generator intact.

[JPWH 6,147]

That's a good idea on the plate @19richie66 I was also thinking of a 1/4 plate on the inside vertical frame rail. This tractor gets used hard so I may do both.

[82Caddy 851]

Keep that motor with a shallow oil pan and it'll fit. I just stuffed a k341 with a flat/shallow pan into a 857 - all under the hood without cutting anything. Had to trim the oil dipper a bit and adjust the dipstick for new pan but otherwise bolted into existing frame holes. 

[953 nut 56,185]

While reading another thread this morning an older thread was mentioned and it will probably help here too, take a look.

 

 

[JPWH 6,147]

After reading about the different blocks and oil pan sizes I have decided to use what I have. I like the idea of the deep sump pan. The small block engine will be just right to allow room for the hydraulic pump. 

[19richie66 17,532]

I don't see any reason why it couldn't work. I think you are going in the right direction. Nice talking with you yesterday by the way!.

[JPWH 6,147]

Well I got the frame cut and did a test fit and replaced the front steering shaft bushing while I had it apart.

I'll be using 1/2" plate to give a little more clearance for the hydraulic pump.

Edited July 4, 2017 by JPWH

[JPWH 6,147]

Another reason I like this motor other than the deep oil sump is the drain plug is on the bottom.

[JPWH 6,147]

The 1/2" plate idea didn't pan out so well due to the mounting bolt pattern. So after a little digging in the metal rack and came up with this. Let me know if you see something you think won't hold up.

All welded up.

Final resting place. Just needs bolted down.

 

[19richie66 17,532]

I like it! Should be just fine

[JPWH 6,147]

I put the bolts in yesterday and bolted the motor down. Then installed the coil and starter relay. Got everything wired and was going to try to start it up. Forgot I had drained the oil and only had 1 quart on the shelf. Stopped to get oil and thought about fuel filter and cut off valve so got them too. Took the wife out to eat came home and went to the shop to fire it up and no Gas. Both cans bone dry. But I did get the exhaust fittings in and picked up some parts for the custom stack muffler and the last hydraulic fittings.

 

[JPWH 6,147]

The 12 hp is alive and sounds good. Now I will proceed with the rest of the build with all the neck breaking speed of a ruptured turtle. I need to build a stack muffler, make a new belt guard for the drive pulley and tiller idler pulley, make a belt guard for the hydraulic pump, make a brake lock lever and cover, and finish the hydraulics then I can start disassembly.

Edited July 8, 2017 by JPWH

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

Got your message about the engine. Glad that everything is OK. I guess 

I can spend the money now???

[JPWH 6,147]

I bought it as is. As is turned out good.

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

Well in my book if "as is" was  dud you would be getting a check in the mail. 

[JPWH 6,147]

If as is was dud I would have just had it rebuilt. You are a good man RJ. I did buy another oil pan though. It's cast iron instead of aluminum because of the way I had to mount it I feel better with a little beefier and the little extra weight won't hurt either.lol

[JPWH 6,147]

After burning up 4 lights I finally got my led lights worked out. Just need to build the bracket.

I think these will be bright enough. Don't pay any attention to my clutter just note the light. 

 

[19richie66 17,532]

Clutter? At least you can see a floor

[JPWH 6,147]

Rear PTO mounted now I need to modify the tool box a little more to give the belt clearance to the rear for easy hook up to attachments.

The mule tape is for belt measurements and reference for clearances for new belt guard.