rustynutguy 9 #1 Posted March 31, 2017 Hey guys I got a c-120 hydro and it used to have a Manuel lift on it. I converted it to a hydrolic lift I'm pretty sure it's the hy-6 unit but I got the ball and spring and cone and spring in it ball in front cone in back it goes up and down and all but my question is that when picking up its raises slow and didn't know if anyone knew a fix to this problem Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #2 Posted April 1, 2017 (edited) You say HY6 unit..are you sure. C120 Autos came with Sundstrand Hydros. They could have lifts added. Look at the manual section here and down load the Sundstrand hydro manual it covers the lift plumbing. Make sure you have the implement relief installed properly. Does the tractor operate well power wise driving?? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/24-transmission-hydro-sundstrand-sm-492-4206pdf/ Edited April 1, 2017 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #3 Posted April 1, 2017 Prettt sure it is it is a older lift off a mother tractor that I put on my c120 this is a picture of the control valve And yea forward and revers all work good just a little slow on picking up the blade or deck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #4 Posted April 1, 2017 (edited) That is the correct lift valve for a sundstrand hydro lift. The cylinder is hard to tell. The correct cylinder has the hose ports angled away from the tractor...hard to tell in your picture. If the the tract runs OK then you need to check the plumbing for your lift. Check out the manual What spring did you use for the implement relief valve...It has to be the heavy one. Part #103464 #55 and you may need some shims 103574 #54 The hose on the outside of you control valve should go to the lower back of your hydro, the inner hose goes to the top of the hydro pump the port just above the implement relief valve Flip your seat up and take a picture of the hydro lines connected to the pump. ans side shot of the control valve. Edited April 1, 2017 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,133 #6 Posted April 1, 2017 The kit available in the day Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #8 Posted April 1, 2017 Both your lines appear to be in the high pressure area. The outer line from the valve should go down low on the pump head. My Older Electro/Chargers have the return line going though a hole in the tool box (under seat box) to a lower port on the hydro pump head. about opposite of your tow valve. I will take a picture after dinner. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #9 Posted April 1, 2017 Look at figure 17 in the manual as you have a piston to piston mine are all hydro gears. The pressure line ( Front of pump)should go to the inside port of the control valve the return line (rear connection on pump) to the outside port. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #10 Posted April 2, 2017 Yea there's a whole in between the room box there but it's just a empty hole no threads or a bolt in it and I had both my lines on the side of the pump and I couldn't get it to do anything so I put that one up top and it started to move just not as fast on the way up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #11 Posted April 2, 2017 1 hour ago, rustynutguy said: Yea there's a whole in between the room box there but it's just a empty hole no threads or a bolt in it and I had both my lines on the side of the pump and I couldn't get it to do anything so I put that one up top and it started to move just not as fast on the way up Did you try hooking them up as in Fig 17 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #12 Posted April 2, 2017 Yea I did but it didn't seem to work as good as the way I have it now which is odd?? I'm wandering if I have the wrong spring in the back port I know the front port is right with the ball bearing and spring Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,977 #13 Posted April 2, 2017 The back spring (for the implement lift relief is much heavier. I has to hold up to 700-900 psi. if you have a pressure tester put it on and run the cylinder to the end of the stroke pressure gauge should get up to 700 at least. If you have the correct spring and still lack pressure you have to put in some shims. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #14 Posted April 2, 2017 Yea see I know the spring is suppose to be shorter but I didn't have one so I put a longer spring in there that's pretty heavy and I can barely push the bolt in to get it started but I know it's got a lot of pressure Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #15 Posted April 2, 2017 Here's a picture of both of my horses working just thought I would share Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,046 #16 Posted April 3, 2017 On 4/2/2017 at 8:52 AM, rustynutguy said: Yea see I know the spring is suppose to be shorter but I didn't have one so I put a longer spring in there that's pretty heavy and I can barely push the bolt in to get it started but I know it's got a lot of pressure You should ask around here for some of the used parts guys for the correct spring. That pressure relief spring is fairly critical in maintaining the proper system pressure and not letting it get too high which could blow out your charge pump, control valve or cylinder. Also if it is not springy enough, it will not let the system generate the 700psi needed for full power lift. Check with @daveoman1966 and @Kelly to start with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites