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bo dawg

Brought one home tonight

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Elkskin's mower junkyard

how bad is the frame?

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bo dawg

The only model number I found is 4120OE02 but when I look it up on Toro site it doesnt have anything.

 

1 minute ago, craftsmanmowerfreak said:

how bad is the frame?

 

520 H break.JPG

Both sides is broke like this in same spot

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Elkskin's mower junkyard
2 minutes ago, bo dawg said:

The only model number I found is 4120OE02 but when I look it up on Toro site it doesnt have anything.

 

 

520 H break.JPG

now thats a new one. i never seen a frame break there lol. heres what i would do jack it up preferably on that bar weld it up. then i would figure out a way to brace it like running a peice of flatstock accross it to make sure it cant brak again.

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MalMac

Very common break on a 520 that has been used with a 60 deck.

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bo dawg

Yeah I never seen before either but I can see it with lugging that very heavy 5' deck.

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JERSEYHAWG /  Glenn

Best of luck, the deck is a beast. The cracks prove it.

 

Glenn

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gwest_ca

Garry

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elliot ness

Bo Dawg, Good score, you should love the 520 when you get it fixed up, I have had a few of them broke in the same place on the frame, I welded them up and add some more support and they are still in use today.

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AMC RULES

Finding another frame should be easy enough too.  :confusion-shrug:

 

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Shynon
1 hour ago, AMC RULES said:

Finding another frame should be easy enough too.  :confusion-shrug:

 

Got one of those

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farmer

If you repair your frame, grind the crack out well, weld, then plate it and weld again.

If you go with a 'new' frame, weld some plate in that area, it will be stronger than the original. :twocents-02cents:

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willybo
2 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Finding another frame should be easy enough too.  :confusion-shrug:

 

Oh heck I would hate to have to tare it down and rebuild back on another frame. Lol... I'm gonna try and weld this as is and maybe just put a 4' deck on her. Heck might save gas mileage too. Lol..

Bo Dawg

Edited by willybo
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bo dawg
3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Garry

Thank you Gary. I appreciate that!

I haven't decided yet but I may not keep the 5' deck since I already have 1 and really wont need 2 of them. Heck I'm too old and weak to use 1. Lol!!!

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Lee1977

I would take it apart get the frame straight, weld it. Get 3/4" square steel 12" long heat an bend them in the center to go under the rod and up to the inside of the angle. Then weld to the rod and angle.

Edited by Lee1977
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oliver2-44

Nice find!

 I agree with @farmerhe couldn't have been much of a "Farmer"  Thoses little cracks would have been no match for a creative application of junk iron and baling wire to keep it together. :ROTF:

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WVHillbilly520H
10 hours ago, bo dawg said:

The only model number I found is 4120OE02 but when I look it up on Toro site it doesnt have anything.

 

 

520 H break.JPG

Both sides is broke like this in same spot

If it were me, I would make 2  1/4"x xxx wide plates per side (in and out) and use that existing bolt hole and if not 1 behind it drill another after getting the hydraulic cylinder out of the way and a hole for the support rod that way it could be sandwiched along with welding the original crack and then welding the plates it definitely would be stronger than factory and shouldn't ever be an issue till it turns back into iron ore dust, just my thoughts being an industrial machinist/fabricator, Jeff.

Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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wildman

Nice hub caps

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Lee1977
1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

If it were me, I would make 2  1/4"x xxx wide plates per side (in and out) and use that existing bolt hole and if not 1 behind it drill another after getting the hydraulic cylinder out of the way and a hole for the support rod that way it could be sandwiched along with welding the original crack and then welding the plates it definitely would be stronger than factory and shouldn't ever be an issue till it turns back into iron ore dust, just my thoughts being an industrial machinist/fabricator, Jeff.

 

You can't add anything to the out side of the frame with out modifing the foodrest and pedals.

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WVHillbilly520H
27 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

 

You can't add anything to the out side of the frame with out modifing the foodrest and pedals.

So you're saying one couldn't plate the frame right at that spot with 3/16"-1/4" thick flat bar without modifying the footrest and pedals, I pretty sure there is room for that with modifying just have to remove pedal(s) and hydraulic cylinder so after drilling center hole to fit without cutting and  2 small 5/16"-3/8" flat head Allen bolts wouldn't protrude past the new plates if  "I" were to do it,  here's pics of my 520 seems to me without being home to actually measure enough space for said fix, belt guard tab might have to modified slightly that is all I see, Jeff.

Screenshot_20170331-113458.png

Screenshot_20170331-113638.png

Screenshot_20170331-113711.png

Edited by WVHillbilly520H

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Lee1977

Why would you go the extra couple changes when it can be fixed on the inside with very little even showing on the out side.

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Ed Kennell

Grind  a full bevel on the outside in the crack and around the pedal support rod.  Then weld it with a full penetration weld on the outside and a fillet weld on the inside.

This will now be the strongest section of the frame. The next  weakest section will be where there is a hole drilled thru the vertical flange of the angle frame nearest the mid point between the front and rear axles.   

 

     My three cents, sense, scents.  :icecream: 

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953 nut

Had that kind of frame problem on a friend's :wh: a few years ago. Ground the cracks, straightened the frame and welded it up on the outside. Made a couple of gussets from 1/4" steel bar and welded them inside the frame, should outlast him and me.  

58de9d0f042b0_111.jpg.09a98fd74cfb2eb62a839663d6ba9583.jpg

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WVHillbilly520H
2 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

Why would you go the extra couple changes when it can be fixed on the inside with very little even showing on the out side.

Because firstly you said couldn't do it without modifying the footrest, and secondly they way I would do it would be the strongest by bolting it as well as welding(dont forget to drill a 1/8" hole at the end of the crack to stop it from separating even after its welded) it sandwiched would eliminate any worries of a repeat failure, if it were to be a show rig OK I went overboard, but as a worker I don't think the extra little effort of doing right the first time is a big issue, not only is the mower deck hanging from the frame but that lift cylinder has its anchor point on that footrest rod, do it right the first time and never look back, sometimes weld ends up being duct tape, I know my being industrial maintenance machinist we don't like repeating repairs...

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