Dennys502 244 #101 Posted April 19, 2017 When you are doing the pins for the cylinders you should either weld a flag on the pin to keep it from turning or weld a bushing on each side and put a bolt through the pin. I would do the same for the pivot on the loader arms. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #102 Posted April 23, 2017 On 4/19/2017 at 0:46 PM, Dennys502 said: When you are doing the pins for the cylinders you should either weld a flag on the pin to keep it from turning or weld a bushing on each side and put a bolt through the pin. I would do the same for the pivot on the loader arms. Well no metal for Fabrication yet, I was suppose to get it by this last friday, But I did get my New Clevis Pins from ZORO today. Denny somehow missed your comment on this until I was going to post tonight. What is the purpose to keep the Pins from turning do? ~Thanks Duke 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dennys502 244 #103 Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) You want the surface of the cylinder end to be the bearing surface - not the steel on the bracket holding it. If the pins rotate they will wear the hole in the bracket they go through very quickly. This is what my loader did. Edited April 23, 2017 by Dennys502 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 1,075 #104 Posted April 23, 2017 By securing the pin, your forcing the rotation to happen where the grease is, between bush and pin. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #105 Posted April 23, 2017 Well there ya go and there ya have it. Well one thing I noticed when my Buddy delivered the 522XI and then he brought his DXI with the Kwik Way loader on it I noticed all the Grease Zerks it had. An Ark loader has -0- ZERO places to grease it. I had planned on adding Zerks wherever I can. What would happen if a guy added replaceable Steel or Bronze shoulder bushings at all pivot points? How do you guys feel about that? Thanks ~Duke 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #106 Posted April 23, 2017 My Ark loader has zerks at all pivots... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #107 Posted April 23, 2017 49 minutes ago, roadapples said: My Ark loader has zerks at all pivots... I wish mine did. Do you have a 500 or 550? My 500 was on an Early 70's GT 14 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #108 Posted April 23, 2017 Since some of my Pivot places on the uprights where the Cylinders attach may be out of round and other places maybe using Flanged Bushings like this may be used to tighten up the out of round holes. And since they are cheap enough picking up an extra set in case of wear would be an option. It would require 24 of these to do the loader or $22.00 worth, plus cost of shipping. Any Thoughts? ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 6,033 #109 Posted April 23, 2017 I don't have a loader but in places you can't put a grease fitting I would at least use a bushing. Jay 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mmmmmdonuts 274 #110 Posted April 23, 2017 You could buy a piece of DOM steel tubing and use a zerk fitting for greasing the pin. For reference the PF engineering plans call for a 1" OD and 1/2" ID tube. If you go to small of a wall of tubing you will have to weld a nut on before you drill for the zerk for clearance purposes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dennys502 244 #111 Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) I see what you are up against now. I just looked at the pics of your loader. It looks like the hole for the loader arm at the top has started to open up. You could buy some Tubing and weld it on the ends of the cylinders. This is what you would want. https://mysteelyard.com/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=11278 Then you could put in grease zerks. This is how you want the top of the loader arm. Edited April 23, 2017 by Dennys502 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #112 Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Dennys502 said: I see what you are up against now. I just looked at the pics of your loader. It looks like the hole for the loader arm at the top has started to open up. You could buy some Tubing and weld it on the ends of the cylinders. This is what you would want. https://mysteelyard.com/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=11278 Then you could put in grease zerks. This is how you want the top of the loader arm. Right On Denny!! Well I just was out in the Garage and put in two Racks Of Baby Back Ribs in da Cabelas Stainless Steel Smoker For Sunday Dinner and I got all the Brothers of Da Hood eYeballing my house as they drive by. While out there I took some pictures of my arms and Cylinders. I just ordered some Bronze Sleeves and Flange Bearings grease fittings 1/8/28 from ZORO and I will add grease fittings just as you showed. As cheap as they are heck I can replace them if need be. I will most likely Silver Braze the Bronze Sleeves and Flanges In that way they are easy to remove with just a punch. Bronze also has the ability to grab grease and lubricant and impregnates itself with it because of its pour-us surface. I used many bronze type bearings in my 35 years as an HVAC Contractor. By the way what fancy drawing program is that? I WANT IT! Thanks ~Duke Edited April 23, 2017 by HorseFixer 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #113 Posted April 23, 2017 10 hours ago, HorseFixer said: I wish mine did. Do you have a 500 or 550? My 500 was on an Early 70's GT 14 Not sure what model number. It`s on a 1974 C160, and the ID tag number is 97 40FL01 05022 8342. My loader frame is square tubing with a round tube welded in for the pin. The tube goes through about a 1/2" and a large cotter key goes through the tube and pin. The zerk is in the pin itself on the outside. Pins are 5/8". My cylinders had a hole in each end, which you were supposed to oil, but I put a zerk in each of those also. This setup seems to work very well with nearly no wear. Something else to ponder.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #114 Posted April 23, 2017 14 minutes ago, roadapples said: Not sure what model number. It`s on a 1974 C160, and the ID tag number is 97 40FL01 05022 8342. My loader frame is square tubing with a round tube welded in for the pin. The tube goes through about a 1/2" and a large cotter key goes through the tube and pin. The zerk is in the pin itself on the outside. Pins are 5/8". My cylinders had a hole in each end, which you were supposed to oil, but I put a zerk in each of those also. This setup seems to work very well with nearly no wear. Something else to ponder.... Are the controls on the right or left as your sitting o the tractor? Since I got the New Pins I think I will drill through the centers and then right angle where I want the grease to go out and then put a grease fitting in the end of the pin. For as old as my loader is, it sure isn't wollared and worn out as one would think. I figure anything I do will be better than it was. Hell I'm not building a WATCH! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #115 Posted April 23, 2017 My controls are on the left. That's the way my pins are made. I had to make one new pin. The PO had a 5/8" bolt and nut in one... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #116 Posted April 23, 2017 1 minute ago, roadapples said: My controls are on the left. That's the way my pins are made. I had to make one new pin. The PO had a 5/8" bolt and nut in one... You my Friend have an ARK 550 Loader. My Controls are on the Right. Since yours is a lil more Beefy with a 50 lb more rating they may have decided to go the Deluxe Route by adding grease fittings who the heck knows? If you looked at a Kwik Way up close next to an Ark in my opinion The Kwik Way has better features, Bigger Cylinders, Better Fittings, But Both the Ark and Kwik Ways bucket's SUCK. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #117 Posted April 23, 2017 I wouldn`t mind if my bucket tilted back a little more. Other than that I wouldn`t trade it for any other I`ve seen... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #118 Posted April 23, 2017 5 minutes ago, roadapples said: I wouldn`t mind if my bucket tilted back a little more. Other than that I wouldn`t trade it for any other I`ve seen... Well I went with three Holes hold a Second Lemme Dig out my Drawing....... Ok I made the Bucket as same as the STOCK BUCKET Except 41" Wide so it can go through my stable doors. The Back Material is 6 ga Material Plus I am adding 1/2" Stiffeners on top So I can put a HOOK for lifting things, and 1/2 knife on bottom. For the Bucket Brackets I have redesigned them with 3 holes and spread them apart so Cylinders wont touch. So looks Like I'm gonna be your HUCKELBERRY (being it was your reply a few pages back that got me thinking) to see how this all works out. ~Duke 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 1,075 #119 Posted April 23, 2017 I'd be interested to know how heavy your bucket is, i plan to weigh mine along with all the other loader related items (just to frighten myself really). 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #120 Posted April 23, 2017 7 minutes ago, farmer said: I'd be interested to know how heavy your bucket is, i plan to weigh mine along with all the other loader related items (just to frighten myself really). Well soon as the Damn guy gets me my Steel I will stand it up on a scale and give you the good news! Prolly wanna add a couple pounds for .032 wire that will be STREAMIN FROM MY STINKIN LINCOLN. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dennys502 244 #121 Posted April 24, 2017 The software I use is Autocad 2016. I've been using Autocad since 1992. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #122 Posted April 24, 2017 Not sure what the therory was behinds Ark's thinking in only installing 4 greaseable pins on the Ark 550's. That's all that mind has. Non on the cylinder pins what's so ever. I have got some bar stock to drill on the lathe and then drill and tap for grease Zerks. Duke when you get done assembling your bucket I'll consider that practice for when I bring my bucket up for repair. 😂 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #123 Posted April 24, 2017 22 hours ago, HorseFixer said: Well soon as the Damn guy gets me my Steel I will stand it up on a scale and give you the good news! Prolly wanna add a couple pounds for .032 wire that will be STREAMIN FROM MY STINKIN LINCOLN. The 40" factory KW bucket that I replaced on my loader build project was about 110lbs. It had some extra steel welded to it though. The 48" CTC bucket that I bought to replace the factory KW bucket weighs 100lbs. Before I found CTC I almost bought one of these because the seller is 5 mins away: http://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-48-Compact-Tractor-Bucket-/281413785304?hash=item41859196d8:g:sfwAAOSwq7JT7gHW Those buckets weigh 150lbs 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 1,075 #124 Posted April 24, 2017 OMG Snowmobileaddict, that JD bucket looks very familiar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #125 Posted April 29, 2017 Well yesterday I received my Bronze Bushings from ZORO and Today I received a E-Mail from my Steel Dude and I went and picked it up. I needed Some Drops and he hooked me up real good. All the pieces on the left and the large pieces under the small pieces on the right were freebies. And he told me any other drops I need are on the house. I could have brought home a bunch more steel but I didn't want to be a hog about it on the first run. I thought I would test fit the bushings in the Bucket Brackets. I will get on Fabbing soon as I have been installing 6 more new Panels on my Solar Array so once that is finished I will be back on this project. Besides I have to give that Farmer guy time to catch up! 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
