ARK 500 LOADER REBUILD ON A 522XI

[Pullstart 62,851]

I nabbed a set of front and rear wheel weights from @bds1984 and he was nice enough to stop by for a visit and delivery today.  Thanks again Brandon!

[Pullstart 62,851]

The whole subframe is welded up, sans weight bars.  That’s tonight’s little project.  I thought I had some 1/2” all thread so I could mount it to the tractor, but I have no 1/2-13 and that’s what I drilled and tapped.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

If you haven’t seen my praises for this Milwaukee metal cutting saw... check out that cut on solid 1” bar!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

The rods are welded.  I need to pop the roll pins out of the “top” and the subframe is FINISHED!

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Looks great bro, 

If i see your thinking right, you have at least the options to built a several extension, i.ex on the rear for a Trailer hitch

what can be little smaller as the subframe pipes to set into the subframe ends and be secured with a 2 Splint.

Maybe another little bigger shift on or slide in Attachements cool combo and great options.

 

Cool idea.

[Pullstart 62,851]

I have often thought for digging, how cool would it be to have a tiller or ground engaging tool on the back to rough stuff up, then scoop it away.  I am not sure how I’d adapt a tiller to this unless it was self powered like yours, since I am using the PTO for the loader pump.  I still have hydraulic lift on the tractor though to control the attachment.  

[Pullstart 62,851]

Heart rate?  Elevated!  That’s quite a bit of stacked up iron!  The bars are about an inch short of the top.  I will likely drill and tap each bar and fashion a hold down to bolt in place.

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

Front bumper coming together...

 

 

[8ntruck 6,999]

Since you are using the PTO to drive a hydraulic pump, how about a 4 or 5 tooth ripper actuated by a hydraulic cylinder to loosen the ground for the bucket?  Depending on the volume of your hydraulic pump, you could drive a tiller with a hydraulic motor.

[JoeM 7,874]

How much do those plates weigh? Look like 20 pounders? 

Overhung and low too. Might not need much more. 

I got 500 now at the rear box and 120 on the wheels. 48x16 bucket loaded with limestone gravel handles very comfortably even on the hill. Lots of traction for digging also. 

I like that bumper, are you going to frame it and add some expanded metal as the grill? Of Course LED lighting too!

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

12 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Since you are using the PTO to drive a hydraulic pump, how about a 4 or 5 tooth ripper actuated by a hydraulic cylinder to loosen the ground for the bucket?  Depending on the volume of your hydraulic pump, you could drive a tiller with a hydraulic motor.

 

Good idea,

some Hyraulic pump ( gear driven) can also act as a Motor in reverse direction, but they mostly need a trusted bearing therefore.

Hydraulic motors may vary in cost, so a little weaker Motor with a Belt have the charme to change the rotaition speed

And the torque on the tiller later with different pulley‘s.

[Pullstart 62,851]

20 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

Good idea,

some Hyraulic pump ( gear driven) can also act as a Motor in reverse direction, but they mostly need a trusted bearing therefore.

Hydraulic motors may vary in cost, so a little weaker Motor with a Belt have the charme to change the rotaition speed

And the torque on the tiller later with different pulley‘s.

I actually have a spare hydraulic pump and matched motor from a large truck bed mounted salt spreader.  I believe it was the track system that pulled the salt to the back of the box.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

That sounds a good way to start.

Few pipes and a small tank ( maybe of an old power steering i. Eg.)

and maybe an electric Valve in between to engage/disengage the tiller hydraulic motor and you‘re good to go.

As long as hydraulic system is bolted on, possibly with an added lift cylindre on a changable hydraulic switch

( one way) make this a cool addon Attachment.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

2 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

That sounds a good way to start.

Few pipes and a small tank ( maybe of an old power steering i. Eg.)

and maybe an electric Valve in between to engage/disengage the tiller hydraulic motor and you‘re good to go.

As long as hydraulic system is bolted on, possibly with an added lift cylindre on a changable hydraulic switch

( one way) make this a cool addon Attachment.

 

 

maybe someday a pulley on the engine driveshaft...

 

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

I believe this will clear the lift cylinder.  I should have trimmed the tailpipe or removed the side tin first though!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

A hack job with the cutoff wheel and a polish with a folic disc and we’re in business for service work!

[Pullstart 62,851]

In this first picture, you can see a direct line of sight between the lift cylinder mounting points.  I should be golden!

[Pullstart 62,851]

The left side brace is welded as well.

 

@JoeM @953 nut @Shynon @elliot ness (are you still around?) @KrazeyOlDave @prondzy any thoughts on a cross brace for the uprights over the hood?  Pros vs cons?  I can see more stability for sure.  Light mount?  I was thinking a piece of 1-1/4” round tube bent up over the hood with enough clearance for the hood to open.  

Edited April 8, 2021 by pullstart
Phorgot the Photo

[Tractorhead 9,064]

I would built it removable (screwed) but it will definitely improve the Stability when lifted.

 

On the Picts the enstiffners to the Frontsection seems a little too close to the cylindre if it is in full lift,

or do you plan a cutoff in that section where the mark is?

 

dimensions in pictures can vary or let me better say distorted display.

Can also be a deception.

[Pullstart 62,851]

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

33 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

 

On the Picts the enstiffners to the Frontsection seems a little too close to the cylindre if it is in full lift,

or do you plan a cutoff in that section where the mark is?

Answer?  I don’t know.  My next step is to begin rebuilding the cylinders and routing hydraulic lines, etc.  if it gets in the way, I’ll cut some clearance.    I do know that these stiffeners are many times stronger than the small ones bolted to Stormy.  They are much taller and wider and about twice as thick.  So, if I do need to trim anything, I’ll do a bit at a time and it’ll still be much stronger.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

 

 

i see the thickness, you got a bunch of reserve.

i mount the enstiffners on my FEL on the inner Side on the Lifter Bars.

i hope the pictures clear what i meant. 

 

Maybe a rotated mount will be a improve that situation with the Angleiron is 270* rotated, so that the flats points to the bottom and the angles points to the inner of the Tractor.

[JoeM 7,874]

1 hour ago, pullstart said:

I can see more stability for sure.  Light mount?

I put those on all of the ones I build, I don't think you can go wrong. One thing it does for me, give this tired old guy a place to grab when I get on and off. Plus working on the hill I can hang on.

 

[Pullstart 62,851]

4 minutes ago, JoeM said:

I put those on all of the ones I build, I don't think you can go wrong. One thing it does for me, give this tired old guy a place to grab when I get on and off. Plus working on the hill I can hang on.

 

Good points.  I think I’ll play around with some tubing scraps and see what is needed to clear the hood.