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Similar Content
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By mhlmeader
Hi folks, me and the gal pal were on our way to the wheelhorse motherland ( southbend), to shop for some wedding rings. So we go down little country road see a barn sale, turned around cause I spy a wheelhorse. I ask how much , he said 400$, but someone was suppose to be picking it up. Turns out it came with a sickle bar too. My ears kinda perked up then , cause my dad wants on for his 702. They call the other fella, he passed on it, I offered 300$, we settled at 350$. Tractor runs pretty good, lil smoke when ya goose it, but runs and cuts pretty good. I'm hoping the sickle bar will fit my dad's 702, it's a 50 inch bar. Anywho, here's some pics a serial numbers if anyone has some additional info, or point me in the right direction, would be appreciated, thanks!!!
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By ebinmaine
I don't have pictures yet but I can get some later. I know that will be helpful but I forgot to take them last night.
So here's what I know.
When I bought my c-160 last year it came with a plow. It was delivered to my house and the plow was not mounted on it. I never saw this particular plow on that particular tractor.
The plow I have is 42 inches wide and has a full frame as most of them do.
The angle lever has the Z shape to it, NOT a straight stick of metal, and also bends slightly back towards the operator.
When I am pulling the angle lever towards me to change the angle of the plow it contacts the brake lever.
Any thoughts?
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By ebinmaine
I have at least 7 hubs on different tractors that I would like to add a second set screw to.
I have an older but good quality floor model drill press.
I have the tap set.
I don't recall ever using the tap set to do anything other than clean out threads. Not make my own thread set.
Can anybody give any particular advice?
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By Goldnboy
I have a B80 that I acquired from a PO that had the PTO rod shortened and rewelded and the spring removed from the brake pad bracket. I replaced the rod with a non welded adjustable, and reworked the muffler with a 45 so then new rod would fit in. After researching manuals and forum i can only determine that i need to have a 1/8 or less gap between the clutch plate and the bell housing. I can adjust the trunnion all the way in and it seems that some pressure is applied to disk and going all the way out a less is applied. However all pictures i have seen most everyone has the trunnion at least half way up the rod and state that you engage the pto rod with a lot of force, that is not my case at all. Is the stub with the bell housing the problem, it looks like there is plenty of disk plate left.
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By melonman
Hey Guys, any help with ID or info on this possibly rare bird? It appears to be the original paint but idk for sure. Alo, a B series with electric lift rather rare I think HUH?
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