tallen4392 69 #1 Posted March 8, 2017 Can someone tell me if this is normal i just recived a commando 8 and finally got it running when you move the shift lever slow it will grind changing gears but if you change fast and quick it seems to work better is this how these older machines work.????? THANKS AGAIN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,895 #2 Posted March 8, 2017 Shouldn't be that way. Is the belt guard in place and adjusted so it is close to the belt by the engine pulley? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #3 Posted March 8, 2017 Belt guard is missing I have one coming is that the problem u think ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #5 Posted March 8, 2017 Don't ride it without the belt guard .... you may not be able to stop Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #6 Posted March 8, 2017 You should NOT try to shift on-the-fly. That is, these are NOT synchromesh transmissions. You MUST start from complete STOP in every gear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #8 Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks for the info but i did drive it without the guard it stopped pretty good...I wanted to be sure all the gears worked they did just hard to go into gear.. Is the tranny in these older horses durable.. ??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,875 #9 Posted March 8, 2017 34 minutes ago, tallen4392 said: I wanted to be sure all the gears worked they did just hard to go into gear.. Is the tranny in these older horses durable. You answered your own question, 50 year old transmission; doing fine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,895 #10 Posted March 9, 2017 They are very durable...if you do not try speed shifting or shifting with out a belt guard. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,499 #11 Posted March 9, 2017 They are pretty durable as long as you shift them without grinding gears often Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N3PUY 1,031 #12 Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) If you're going to drive it around, put it into gear before starting the motor. That way you won't shift with motor running. This is what happens without the belt guard ... Edited March 9, 2017 by N3PUY 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildman 205 #13 Posted March 9, 2017 16 minutes ago, N3PUY said: If you're going to drive it around, put it into gear before starting the motor. That way you won't shift with motor running. This is what happens without the belt guard ... OUCH!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,238 #14 Posted March 9, 2017 Please listen to what the guys have told you. The drive belt MUST come to a COMPLETE stop before you shift. That it what the belt guard does for you. The gear shown looks like the 3rd/2nd gear and the damage shown was done by grinding it into 2nd gear. Look at the other side and you'll see the inner teeth (or what's left of them) that mesh with the input gear in 3rd. I can't show you a picture because the computer I have it on is 1000 miles away. That is by far the #1 cause of these transmissions slipping out of 3rd gear. It's a common problem and always caused by grinding the gears. Except for the addition of the hi/low ranges the newer transmissions aren't much different than the older ones. Both are very tough but grinding is abusing and abusing ruins things no matter how tough. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #15 Posted March 9, 2017 To change the fluid i looked at the book removed the allenhead plug on the bottom left got about a quart out then removed the plug on the left rear to fill it only took 1 quart to fill it everyhere i read says takes 2 quarts to fill i dont get it am i doing something wrong ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,238 #16 Posted March 9, 2017 You need to lift the front of the tractor up to completely drain it. Look under the transmission at the center bolt holding the case halves together. You'll see the hump it forms blocking oil in front of it. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #17 Posted March 9, 2017 I will try it thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #18 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Hi i was just wondering how the side cover for the belt makes the trans shift smoother.. there was no cover on it when i got it so just wondering how it works does it rub against the belt so it cant move when shifting ?? THANKS for the info i am learning a lot about these older machines Edited March 10, 2017 by tallen4392 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,620 #19 Posted March 10, 2017 The simple answers is...the drive belt will not stop unless you have the belt cover on. The cover has tabs that guide the belt away from the drive pulley when the clutch is depressed. With the belt continuing to turn, no matter how slow, the gears in the tranny are still moving making the gears grind when attempting to put it into gear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #20 Posted March 10, 2017 Thanks i guess i will see how it works when i get a look at it .... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,715 #21 Posted March 10, 2017 Yes, the belt guard must be on to stop the belt from moving. Like Bob said, the tabs guide the belt away from the drive pulley. The bottom flange on the belt guard also supports the belt preventing the weight of the belt from pulling the belt down and contacting the drive pulley. I really feel this is the most important factor in stopping the belt. When I built my custom low rider, I did not install a belt guard or tabs at the drive pulley, bit I did install several support pins below the bottom of the belt and I have the idler pulley belt keeper adjusted so it pinches the belt slightly when the clutch is depressed. It works great. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,875 #22 Posted March 11, 2017 4 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: idler pulley belt keeper adjusted so it pinches the belt slightly when the clutch is depressed. Needs to be at the top so it will grab the belt as it pivots forward, not like the one that is circled. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,715 #23 Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Exactly Richard. I'm guessing the best position will be about midway between your two marks. Best is to block the clutch fully depressed, then adjust the belt keeper so it pinches the belt in front of the pulley. Then release the clutch and make sure it does not contact the belt as the one in your picture. It should be noted that the belt has to be the correct length. If it is too long, the keeper will contact the belt at each end of the clutch stroke. Edited March 11, 2017 by Ed Kennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tallen4392 69 #24 Posted March 13, 2017 Good call on the belt guard installed it today shifts like new ... THANKS for the info ..... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,715 #25 Posted March 14, 2017 BTW Tom, your mid mount attach-a-matic was shipped today. I sent you a PM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
