Iron Wheel Horse 9 #1 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) On my Wheel Horse the screw out / in neutral valve for moving tractor around when not running has been stuck but dose not affect the tractor in a way while running tractor. When I first got tractor free ed screw valve up and it dose screw in and out but dose not let trans go into a neutral position for moving around while not running. Just saying before someone comes in on this topic. I have never towed tractor and I move around when needed with jack. Tractors runs great and shiftier response is flawless in a way that I do not need to be on rider if just moving around in or out of garage / building hence forgetting about it. Attached picture of location and to be clear what I'm writing about. Dose any body have a ideal other then a tear down to remedy this inconvenience. Input would be great ! Edited February 13, 2017 by Iron Wheel Horse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #2 Posted February 13, 2017 Are you saying that at one time you could turn the tow valve but that the tractor wouldn't roll and now you cannot turn the valve??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Wheel Horse 9 #3 Posted February 13, 2017 for your interest. It turns in and out freely, but you still can not roll tractor. Even if it is turn in what would be a neutral position I can drive tractor / USE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #4 Posted February 13, 2017 You have to engage the hydro drive in order to roll it. (I know counter intuitive..) If you have teh hydro drive handle pulled up (disengaged) it sets the parking brake. What model are we talking about here. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #5 Posted February 13, 2017 Hmmm??? Just curious, what model WH tractor/tranny? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Wheel Horse 9 #6 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) 1977 Wheel Horse C-120 Have a pic here to show on left side be hide foot rest. Edited February 13, 2017 by Iron Wheel Horse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #7 Posted February 13, 2017 The tow valve is a simple tapered seat valve. Screw it in and the tapered point of the valve seats and seals a passageway in the pump. The pump will then create pressure and the tractor will operate. Open the valve (counter clockwise) and the valve unseats and hydro fluid can flow by it making it impossible for the pump to generate enough pressure to operate the tractor. If you can unscrew it a whole turn and the tractor still operates I am at a loss to explain what may be happening. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #8 Posted February 13, 2017 My '68 Sundstrand has a tow/drive valve under the seat pan and it requires only a half turn. On your model, the sticker on the fender sez turn with screwdriver (looks like??) 3 times. So my question is: Why do you have a hex bolt? Was it the replacement to the tapered seat screw pfrederi was talking about??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #9 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) That hex head bolt is NOT the tow valve. The tow valve has a straight screw driver slot and faces the front of the tractor. You get to it between thee running board and the hood stand. Edited February 13, 2017 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #10 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) Oh ok. pfrederi. My bad! Was just confused where the arrow was pointing too. Still would like to know what his tapered seat valve screw looks like. Also, does it only screw in and out (3-times) and stops, or do you tighten all the way down and count 3 complete turns??? I am learning! I love the C-120 model and was offered one once to buy, but I was given the Electro12 for free. Edited February 13, 2017 by JimmyJam 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #11 Posted February 13, 2017 It is entirely different that the one you have on your 68. Yours is a port type valve held in by a 1" nut. It can turn indefinitely. it never screws out to remove it you take off the 1" nut and then pull up (very hard) and it comes out. On the unit in question here it has coarse tread and you can unscrew it completely it will fall out and you will have hydro fluid all over the place. You only need to turn it 1 turn to let it bypass. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #12 Posted February 13, 2017 Don't get me wrong! FREE is good, but..." you get what you pay for". I have spent nearly 5 years to get that Electro12 rebuilt. For instance, the hydro-lift was totally removed. Instead of looping the Sundstrand lift ports with hoses, they were blocked off with hex bolts. Hence my questioning of use of hex bolts! Gottcha! Thanks for the info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #13 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) When they remove the hydro lift they should use Hex head ORB #5 Plugs. They do not loop it back. Your Electro can be a great unit.. I have 2 electros and 2 chargers thy are great Edited February 13, 2017 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimmyJam 542 #14 Posted February 13, 2017 1 minute ago, pfrederi said: When they remove the hydro lift they should use Hex head ORB #5 Plugs. They do not loop it back. The previous owner used standard thread hex bolts, not plugs. Doesn't matter now, because I recently replaced them with another hydro lift setup and another Sundstrand pump. Everything working as it should. Thanks for info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Wheel Horse 9 #15 Posted February 13, 2017 Here is a picture I do understand the seat thing, Maybe a piece a tiny tiny of the end of the seat broke,very point I used oil , wd40 and still needed to use vise grips to turn It should be simply , but am I the only one that simple always turns into a complete rebuilt , Chuck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Wheel Horse 9 #16 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) pfrederi I guess now thinking about it I never tried to unscrew all way out to see condition of seat. Maybe that will tell me something or be able to see in there , I have a Borescope. Can I tilled tractor up in a way so it dose not bleed all over ? Edited February 13, 2017 by Iron Wheel Horse Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #17 Posted February 13, 2017 32 minutes ago, Iron Wheel Horse said: am I the only one that simple always turns into a complete rebuilt No, there are at least 2 of us! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,910 #18 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) This is what your tow valve looks like. What I do not understand is how your tractor could operate if you had opened the valve one whole turn. Those are coarse threads one turn moves that point a lot As to ;leakage if it has not run in awhile you shouldn't get a whole lot of fluid spillage maybe a cup or two Edited February 13, 2017 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Wheel Horse 9 #19 Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) pfrederi You really went all out THANK YOU ! I would not mind getting that part new as I chewed up the shoulder on mine. When I did turn this out and it was many moons ago and left as is because i just though this simple thing may not be so simple. One thing comes to mind but with barrier of fluid would not seem so steel seated against aluminum and the hole has been clog with corrosion deterioration, farer fetch ,or other junk. Maybe when I get a chance I should take out valve and use a vacuum and then blow some air after getting fluid level lowered,I don't know . Need brain stormers on this one. Now looking at the pic I took I may of taken all the way out and then put anti seize on it looks silvery in color. I don't remember fluid flowing out ,I would of remember that which may show the sign of a plugged up hole / venturi if that is what you call it. Edited February 13, 2017 by Iron Wheel Horse 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #20 Posted February 14, 2017 If you want a NEW....OLD STOCK valve, I have one in a box with some other stuff... Send me and OFF-SITE mail if you want to pursue this. I am: daveoman@windstream.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
