Duramax7man7 506 #1 Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) Okay, Figured with the long break in any significant weather I'd go ahead a tear this thing down and freshen her up! Started with a 42" dozer blade, frame and self fab'd extension setup which was made of new stock as well as modifying my old standard blade angle adjust level to fit the swept front end tractors. The frame was rough and came with my 1990 520h/ 1995 312-8s (S= swept front axle I added). There weren't any stickers on the plow frame and blade which was a 48". But I bent that and picked up a really nice 42" that did have numbers. Not sure if they are legit but I will post them later. Blade and new wear bar. (3/8" x 4" ) Disassembled and sanded down... Some shots of last of the rust that I was only able to hit with a wire wheel. Then hit with Rust Fix which will turn this stuff into a black primer. Same thing I used on my 520h Rims. Quick peek of what this stuff does on the right side of the photo... More to come... Stay tuned... Edited February 10, 2017 by Mastiffman 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt-NEPA 755 #2 Posted February 10, 2017 Thanks for pics. I have this same project coming up this summer. My plow frame need the extension kit and the plow needs a new wear edge. Not to mention a good clean up and paint. I plan of fabricating my own parts. Keep the updates coming. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,520 #3 Posted February 12, 2017 Nice work. I too have a blade project this summer. FYI. Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric paint works great. 👍 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #4 Posted February 14, 2017 Frame and blade are coated. This was the 1st and 2nd coat. Just finished applying the 3rd and final coat a little bit ago. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #5 Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) Okay, so now that Everything is painted. I have a couple of questions. One of which I probably should have asked BEFORE Painting this stuff. 1. Should all of this stuff be clear coated now? 2. Is it better clear coat within the first 45 mins of the final coating of paint or after 48 hours of drying? More Photos. (This phone camera seems to have a slight distortion effect towards the edges of the photos. The welds really are straight! ha ha) This will look nice on the bottom of that blade. Probably not for very long once in use... Longer drying time will help that though. And maybe a clear coating? Also, Is there a good way to shine up the hardware while keeping it's protective coating (assuming it's like the galvanized hub caps?)??? Edited February 16, 2017 by Mastiffman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #6 Posted February 17, 2017 Should I clear coat all of this stuff as well? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elkskin's mower junkyard 1,117 #7 Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Mastiffman said: Should I clear coat all of this stuff as well? in my personal opinion. if you plan to use it alot do not to clear coat the blade it will wear off and peel.plowframe and otherthings is up to you.because they wont see constant rubbing Edited February 17, 2017 by craftsmanmowerfreak Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #8 Posted February 17, 2017 Okay. What is one of the better clear coats? Also, clear coating will help prevent chipping as it will dent the clear coat first, correct? Obviously anything substantial will just bust right through to the metal either way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,374 #9 Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) "Clear Coating" is really just an UV inhibitor more than being "chip resistant", if you want chip, abrasion resistance you need 2 part (+ hardener) automotive type paints that are sprayed by air/gun, then it'll hold up longer, as with painting cars the color coat is actually pretty thin then the clear is put over to bring out the gloss/color and protect it sun fading, as with a car the clear coat scratches from everyday wear and tear leaving the "spider webs" when the light catches it just right, just my experiences, Jeff. Edited February 17, 2017 by WVHillbilly520H Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #10 Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) More pics... Just about there... Waiting for the angle adjust pin lock handle and modified angle adjust rod to dry. Will be leaving both pin lock connecting wires as is with their current state of galvanization on them. The rest have been sanded and painted using "Rust Fix" as a base primer and then 3 coats on Rustoleum "Metallic Aluminum" finish... Turned out very sharp! I used Fiber washers on either side of the plate in this first pic and will be doing the same for angle adjust lever as well as the pin lock lever at the top of the adjust lever. Take a look. Will be installing the cotter pins in a few days. Mean time I'll be making the down pressure bar for this setup so I can do some dirt excavation this spring (uuuh... Now?). Last thing to do will be to clean up the original wheel horse sticker and put that back on. Edited March 7, 2017 by Mastiffman 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #11 Posted March 7, 2017 Here's are a couple of pics of a few of my own ideas. Nothing crazy. Just some stabilization of the angle adjust rod and nylon bushings although I only took a shot of the one on the lever. There's also a nylon bushing on the plow pivot. For these bushings I had to sand off about half the thickness of the wall of the bushing for it to fit. Should help to prevent rust in the areas they are used. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #12 Posted March 8, 2017 I tried nylon for awhile for linkage parts , but any thrust against it's side walls just splits the stuff too easily - went to oil impregnated bronze and never looked back and they help stop the wear on the linkage/holes . Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #13 Posted March 8, 2017 Nice. That can be switched out for sure. I spent the money on this so I'm gonna beat it up! lol These are just for moving the angle of the plow. So not sure if that will make a difference? But anything with high pressure or torque being put on it I have used softer metal bushings. One example was for the drive belt idler pulley. It was rattling around from being a bit blown out. So I drilled the hole out a bit and used a soft metal bushing there. The goo d thing is that the local hardware stores all have some general sizes. But I have noticed some loose area in my motion lever cam under the saddle of the tractor as well as a bushing being needed for the lift assembly under the tractor. I made a down pressure bar last night and installed it this morning and removed the lift assembly and found that the lift bar weld at the lift cross bar support (runs between the frame in front of the transaxle mount plate) was broken. It still lifts fine. But, the support bar seems a bit bent as well as one side where the c-clip slips in, that hole I the frame is pretty large. So not sure if the one of PO lost a bushing or it's just that way to allow the whole thing to come out? Where's the best place to find the oil impregnated bronze bushings? That really sounds like a great idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT14 243 #14 Posted March 10, 2017 Nice extension idea and great restore. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #16 Posted March 10, 2017 Some hardware stores carry them , I get most of that stuff from McMaster - have an account with them and their customer service is beyond belief . If I hit the app or call before 6pm - stuff is at my door the next morning by 10am if it's in stock , which it's rare if they ever have a backorder . Their prices can be a bit higher than other places , but they only use top quality stuff , never seen anything yet that was cheaply made and you can specify exact manufacturers if you call . In metric special screws I use - the ones they carry from Brikssen in SS are beautiful . I need to put in an order today (thanks for the reminder) to get the machinery feet coming for the old Atlas/Clausing drill press so I can get it done next week... Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #17 Posted March 10, 2017 Ah nice! Yeah how is that bad boy coming along? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #18 Posted March 10, 2017 Very slowly , it came out of a high school shop in Chicago - mechanically very good condition but there was extensive damage to the table and column - operator error or horseplay...lol . Later today is welding up the scars on the column , still not certain if it's cast iron , cast steel or spun-cast steel - but I'll know this afternoon when I light up on it . Hopefully the EZ Tig cast rod will show up today , I'm about out from fixing the table over last weekend and now trying to find a place that can blanchard grind the table flat again . Gonna have a lot invested in this thing , but it should last another 65yrs easily with some care . Crap , just remembered I need to split the motor apart and check it's bearings - original 1hp/ 3ph Atlas , tag is beautiful on it too . Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #19 Posted March 10, 2017 sounds like you'll have some blood sweat and tears invested along with that coin... Will be a nice machine when you're done I'm betting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
