Duramax7man7 506 #1 Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) Okay, after deciding to get a swept front axle for my 95' 312-8 that use a plow on, I figured that I'd jump, get a welder (Lincoln Dual MIG 180ampDC 240v) and see what kind of fabrication I could mock and put together for the Plow/ Dozer extension kit... TOOLS LIST: 1. Ch. Elect. Chop saw and metal cutting disc 2. Ch. Elect. 4-1/2" Angle Grinder 3. Flat File 4. Ryobi dual drill/ hammer drill (not on hammer ha ha) 5. 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" drill bits (I really need to a get a drill press. Almost got one to face twice) 7. Vice 8. Tape Measure and scratch all (nail ha ha-don't worry I have a soap pen now) 9. Lincoln 240v Dual MIG 180amp DC welder with .035 FC wire 10. Can of Pam cooking spray to help limit spatter. I used the measurements on the site, got some 2.5" x 3/8" Flat stock and 3/4" round stock. I don't have a torch so I couldn't get the bend to work but I decided to try and weld the shift in the sidebars together. Unfortunately my stock was limited and I had t patch a 1/2" piece at the end of one of the side bars. It's not on high pressure point though. I did end up getting a little to high current on a couple welds but was able to get the welder more dialed in today and finish up the unit with better beads. I know they are not perfect but will get the job done. This is my first go round in welding so be gentle on the criticism (which is welcome). It's only been 2-3 days. Have a look. Piece that was but welded and then ground down to match and cut at the proper length. A little to much amperage. Thought about running two more beads on top of these after getting the welder dialed in for 3/8" which was WFS-3 and Volts-C with .035 FC wire. Lock slots... 11-7/16" at the bottom outside measurement (at the removable 3/4" lock bar). 11-1/2" at the top inside measurement. I simply placed it all on the plow and clamped the side bars to the plow rails and then set the top (rear) 3/4" bar and tacked it. Post welding fit... It's nice a snug on the plow frame and fits perfect on the plow bracket on the axle. Last this to do is drill the cotter pin holds. Next will be the lift bracket. Will use a sanding disc on the rest, prime and paint after that. More pics to come... Edited January 26, 2017 by Mastiffman 20 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benji756 341 #2 Posted January 26, 2017 looks like your doing a fine job to me, as you weld more you will get more comfortable with your welder and settings but so far what you have done is just fine. 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #3 Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks for the encouragement! Yeah its definitely something I can see myself doing for a long time. I really enjoy it. Ive built many things with wood so this is right down my alley. I have an exhaust pipe I need to fix on my 1970 Onan 6.0 cckb generator that is hig on my list too. So this opens up a whole new set of options for me. I think if I had an actual torch I could have heated the stocknup enough to bend it properly. So I may try that in the future. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,372 #4 Posted January 26, 2017 The overlap and welding on both sides/ends is just as good and if not stronger than the bend itself you did good with your limited tool supply I work in/around a industrial machine shop and sometimes overlap welding is the best option,Jeff. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,516 #5 Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) Looks great. Post pics of your completed project. We use a little liquid dish soap and a paint brush to eliminate weld splatter. Edited January 26, 2017 by Tankman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,131 #6 Posted January 26, 2017 Nice job! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry77 1,218 #8 Posted January 26, 2017 Nice job -- if you can pre-determine where you need to drill holes for pins etc. it will be easier to drill before you heat the metal up with the welding ( gets a little harder to drill after heating ) 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #9 Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said: The overlap and welding on both sides/ends is just as good and if not stronger than the bend itself you did good with your limited tool supply I work in/around a industrial machine shop and sometimes overlap welding is the best option,Jeff. That's great to hear Jeff! I will definitely put it to the test I'm sure. I was thinking that if I needed to I could weld some overlap pieces right across the inside joints before the rear most bar. Making sure that clearance was there for the axle bracket. But if it's going to be that strong. Good to know. But at 3/8" thick this stuff shouldn't be able to bend at all. I tried heating the 3/8" with some map gas and it wouldn't even turn red... haha. 3 hours ago, Tankman said: Looks great. Post pics of your completed project. We use a little liquid dish soap and a paint brush to eliminate weld splatter. Thanks for the tip. I saw the spatter spray Ideal from Craig Ardnt on youtube who documented his whole 520 rebuild. But then saw the cooking spray in a video and on Jody's site "welding tip and tricks". 52 minutes ago, Jerry77 said: Nice job -- if you can pre-determine where you need to drill holes for pins etc. it will be easier to drill before you heat the metal up with the welding ( gets a little harder to drill after heating ) Thank you. Yeah that makes sense. But then again, the biggest drill bit I have before 3/4" was 1/2"... And they are cobalts and much sharper. So I was biting off 1/8" all the way around the holes which was way to much. The 3/4" bit wasn't a cobalt either. Learned my lesson there. Standard drill bits for steel= bad idea. lol I should be able to get more work done later. I have a Maxilofacial post-op apt at 11:30am and then have to make a run to DTW Airport. But after that it's pretty much open for the day. Didn't get a lot of sleep last night. Woke up with my neck sore @ 6:50am (went to bed a 2am like a dummy. Darn Hulu binge watching!?). So I'm running on less than 5 hours of sleep. Might take a nap before using the welder at all. I'll keep everyone posted though. P.S. Does everyone prime parts like this first? or just give a few good coats of Rustoleum? Edited January 26, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Texas Todd 1,025 #10 Posted January 26, 2017 46 minutes ago, Mastiffman said: Does everyone prime parts like this first? or just give a few good coats of Rustoleum? I typically prime with Rusto self etching primer and then paint with Rusto Regal Red. Nice work! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #11 Posted January 26, 2017 looks good to me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,516 #12 Posted January 26, 2017 3 hours ago, Texas Todd said: I typically prime with Rusto self etching primer and then paint with Rusto Regal Red. Nice work! Rustoleum Regal Red , I use the rattle cans although I have a spray gun for my compressor. The Rustoleum Regal Red usually on the shelf at Home "Cheapo", 'bout $3 a can. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #13 Posted January 27, 2017 you really are doing a fine job,i do a lot of welding and I really like making attachments for the tractors,it feels good to make something useful from a pile of steel 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #14 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) More progress. Pictures coming up! First things first. Thank you all for you encouragement on the work. Very kind of you. I am trying. Also, thanks to everyone that has provided measurements on this parts on the forum! You made this process a bit easier. (Any good ideas for the angle arm? I'd like to make easier than the stock improvement. Probably just angle it back further.) So the first that I did was go get some more stock. Local Steel Company is about 10mins from me. (probably start trying scrap yards soon though. Picked up some more Flat stock. Then I marked and drilled hole for lock bar cotter pins on the extension bracket. For the lift extension brace I used 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8 angle stock and doubled that up to create a U channel (similar to what is used for the frames lift brace. I had to grind down one side so that it fit square against the other piece while keeping the right 1-3/4" width. It worked perfectly though. I cleaned both pieces up and then welded a lap bead on the back bottom edge and then ran three 2" long beads on the inside top corner as well as a bead on each end. I used 1.5." x 1/4" flat stock for the connector bar. Of course I had to test fit the parts on the plow and plow on the 312-8.. Pre front swept axle fit though. But it looks to have pushed the plow forward quite a bit, as it should... Just have to remake the plow angle handle to be comfortable while sitting on the tractor. Technically I could angle the plow to the left but it stops almost at the PTO Pulley when straight. So the other piece of stock I got was a 44" piece of 3/8" x 4"... I'm planning on using this for a wear bar... I merely leaned it up against the blade at this point. The current bar is down to the metal on the plow and has no room for flipping. It's going Bye Bye! I plan on getting new, longer carriage bolts and drilling the holes and then squaring out the holes with a file. I felt that this would add a bit more weight to the plow as we only have cement "round these parts"! ha ha Plus it should help out when dozing as well limiting the amount of force needed when I make a down pressure bar. This 312-8 is going to look really good with a forward swept front end! (yes I know I have some clutter. I'm working on that too. It's all mobile now. ha ha - the cart) Lastly, when I was at the steel company I found the name of company that might be able to roll some 1/4" to 3/16" slat stock to make me a new 48" plow blade in the future. Mine is rusted out and toasted. The one above is only a 42". Will update again soon. Edited January 27, 2017 by Mastiffman 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #15 Posted January 27, 2017 13 hours ago, Mastiffman said: Thank you. Yeah that makes sense. But then again, the biggest drill bit I have before 3/4" was 1/2"... And they are cobalts and much sharper. So I was biting off 1/8" all the way around the holes which was way to much. The 3/4" bit wasn't a cobalt either. Learned my lesson there. Standard drill bits for steel= bad idea. lol A drill press will help. Hand held drills are too fast for steel. And it is hard to hold the trigger part way. I got a $100 HF drill press, and while it is never going to be extremely accurate, it isn't horrible. Slow the bit down to 300 to 500 RPMs, and you will be amazed how fast the bit will cut. I think mine is set at about 375, and it will cut a nice smooth hole. I have had to clear the shavings away to finish, as they will spin off in one long piece and wrap around the spindle and bit like cotton candy! I went all the way up to 7/8" holes building the front end loader. And I built that with about a month's experience welding, so stick with it. I find it fun and relaxing, and it's great to be able to fix broken stuff around the house (like my computer chair, for instance). 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #16 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) Yeah I think that I will definitely get a drill press. My Ryobi hammer drill has hammer and regular drilling modes as well as has high and low. I used the loewe's setting and only half trigger. But it was still to much. Especially when that 3/4" bit would catch!? It was like a mule kick! Haha. If you dont mind me asking, what was the total cost in material for that loader? Its nice by the way. Did you get the ballast weight setup? I will be beefing up my frame and making a 4pt weight box. EDIT: Regal Red? How do you guys feel about Sunset Red? Is regal red a bit darker? Edited January 27, 2017 by Mastiffman 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermitman 116 #17 Posted January 27, 2017 Welds look 110% better than when I tried using my sons!! Looked like Chicken poo!! Practice is the best teacher. On color topic, my buddy brought a can of Rusto, Colonial Red over and we hit the back corner of my 1075. It dried almost identical! I was shocked. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #18 Posted January 27, 2017 Thanks for the compliments. I will have to buy a can of regal red and give that a try. I like the Sunset Red though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hacksawhero123 351 #19 Posted January 28, 2017 A thought on the drill press. Get a foot pedal switch!! There is no better way to get hurt than to have the bit bite hard into the stock and ripped from your hands. Or have one hand holding the stock the other holding the down wheel and trying to head butt the off switch. Don't ask how I know. The foot switch is one of those "best twenty dollars I ever spent " deals. Mark 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #20 Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) Nice tip... Thanks for the wisdom as painful as it was to gain it for you... "how do you know?" lol Sorry, had to. Edited January 29, 2017 by Mastiffman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #21 Posted January 29, 2017 Just a tip - I have two fingers that are pretty much junk ...I never drill anything in any of my drill presses by holding it with my hands , everything gets clamped down tight . I'd rather fry a belt than get wound up around the spindle again by a 1-1/2hp motor . When I get this ancient Clausing running soon that one is even more dangerous since it has to run on a VFD and I probably won't go to the expense of running an emergency stop switch - it's going to have plenty of wiring as it is . Have you ran some test welds and cut/etch them out to check the penetration yet ? It's not a hard job and household chemicals can be used (naval jelly) . Post up a pic... Details of how-to are found on YouTube or www.weldingtipsandtricks.com . Jody Collier has some of the best welding videos out there and some great old-school techniques for testing and learning . The guy has an Aerospsace and teaching backround - his knowledge is amazing in the industry . It looks like your heat is a bit low or a little too much wire speed - should get a very crisp bacon frying sound when it's right . Watch some of Jody's videos on mig welding and how the leading edge of the puddle should look - that is the key . Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #22 Posted January 29, 2017 Funny you say that as I was looking into how to bolt down the clamps and vices used to hold items during drilling. I always try to picture the worse thing that could happen with any situation and try to prevent that from happening. Obviously there are things that can't be foreseen but preventing the expected user errors can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #23 Posted January 29, 2017 On 1/28/2017 at 11:24 AM, Hacksawhero123 said: A thought on the drill press. Get a foot pedal switch!! There is no better way to get hurt than to have the bit bite hard into the stock and ripped from your hands. Or have one hand holding the stock the other holding the down wheel and trying to head butt the off switch. Don't ask how I know. The foot switch is one of those "best twenty dollars I ever spent " deals. Mark I generally clamp anything down that isn't long enough to give me enough leverage to hold it. And if the drill press is at 300 to 500 RPM, it shouldn't be so violent if it does catch. But I do like the pedal idea 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #24 Posted January 29, 2017 On 1/26/2017 at 11:31 PM, Mastiffman said: If you dont mind me asking, what was the total cost in material for that loader? Its nice by the way. Did you get the ballast weight setup? I will be beefing up my frame and making a 4pt weight box. I don't have an exact figure, but I believe it is somewhere around $2800. I had the box made at a local fabricator, I just didn't have the ability to bend it, and I didn't want to weld it together out of pieces, I felt it wouldn't be as strong. The pump, cylinders, valve, and hoses were between $1,000 and $1,500. Then the steel, and miscellaneous fittings, etc. I did just attempt to round up receipts to figure it out if I have time. For ballast so far, I bought a rear hitch rack from HF on sale for around $40, and I fill it with 8x8x16 solid blocks. Works great, along with wheel weights and my fat butt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duramax7man7 506 #25 Posted January 29, 2017 WOW, yeah but over time that would be as bad piece by piece... But it would be fun to build it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites