416 with no lights.

[WHX?? 48,828]

Got this new to me 416H home and the lights, voltmeter and possible some other electrical gremlins running around in there. Did work when I loaded it up for home.   I haven't delved into it a lot yet but multimeter says no power to the light  switch and the switch is good.  Any ideas as to where to start looking? Did check the fuses and appear to be ok.  I also noticed that the voltmeter has a hole for a light assembly but doesn't have one. Did the 416's voltmeters not have a light? Looks to be the same volt meter as a 520.

 

Since the seat pan has been repainted and no tag any other way to nail down the year/model/SN ?

Edited January 25, 2017 by WHX9
spel

[rmaynard 15,514]

This wiring diagram is from the 1991 416-H.  

 

With the key turned on, check with your meter at the (A) accessory terminal of your ignition switch for 12V. If you have it there, move on the the light switch. If you don't have it there, the 15 amp fuse is probably blown or the fuse holder/connections are bad.  However, if you don't have power at (A), and you have power at (B), your ignition switch is probably bad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2017 by rmaynard

[WHX?? 48,828]

Thanks Bob... that diagram looks a little different than the one in the manual the PO gave me. I suspect this might be a '95?? I see your diagram does not show a voltmeter light so I am guessing they were not so equipped. Need to check that pink wiring going to the voltmeter also.

Edited January 25, 2017 by WHX9

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

Garry

[richmondred01 2,237]

No light for the 416 volt meter

Check the ground wire for the lights.

[SylvanLakeWH 25,600]

I'd check ground and check the wire from start to finish. If it worked before loading on the trailer I'm guessing a bump knocked something loose and it's probably pretty simple...

[WHX?? 48,828]

First thing I check Sylvan. Got a chance to chase more gremlins last nite and found multiple problems. 1st off light switch intermittent  bad... ok pretty simple fix right? Then I notice that none of the red lights on the module would light either. Power going out of the switch per diagram and I see same power feeds the module again per Bob's diagram Wiggle the wires under the fuse block in front of the tower and things flash. Bad fuse holder? Looks ok so out comes the battery to try and see what's going on underneath. Turns out to be a real pita to get at. Gave up when supper was ready..stay tuned

[rmaynard 15,514]

If the nine pin connector is bad, I have them in my vendor store. Exact duplicate replacement. If the fuse block is bad, they are a common item available from most auto parts stores.

[WHX?? 48,828]

Fuse socket bad.  I had the same issue on another tractor so I kinda knew what to go for but was hoping it wasn't because of it's location. The 25 amp fuse that feeds the ignition switch was the culprit, bottom socket in pic.  Ohms law says resistance = heat so it had just started to melt the fuse block but not bad. If I can get the fuse socket out of the fuse block I might be able to save it. Clean up the socket and move it to the unused. one.  One side came out ok with a extractor but the side that started to melt I dunno . Gonna be a real pita to replace the entire fuse holder. Can't get in there to cut & splice without taking apart half the tractor.  Location is everything I guess! when it happened on my 246H I did just get three of the inline sockets. as the whole fuse block was really melted.

Looks like  you can get replacement connectors

[richmondred01 2,237]

You can get a new fuse box at the auto parts store. Keep the old one for a go by because I believe that there is a mutual connection between the connectors. 

I cant recall but I had one that did the same thing and I was glad I inspected the connections. 

I guess what I'm saying is take your time with it. 

I have 2 416 wiring harnesses if you get into a jam I can photo the connections for you. 

[WHX?? 48,828]

Update here.... did manage  to get the connectors out and cleaned up and reinserted into the spare fuse holder. probably should have replaced the contacts found at https://www.waytekwire.com/products?clear=true and may do so in the future. Lots of other wiring products there as well.

Once all buttoned back up time to tackle the overcharging issue, 18+ volts at full throttle, same as my overcharging 520. So off to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DHPMEY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for one of these. Easy peasy right??? Two minute job right?? That is until I drop the replacement down behind the oil filter. Fish it out with a grab tool or magnetic pick up...rats it's aluminum. Managed to shove it down further by the flywheel. Now I will be educating myself on Onan shroud removal or hopefully just chaff screen removal!

Edited February 2, 2017 by WHX9

[richmondred01 2,237]

You will need to remove the blower housing and although not difficult it does take time. The engine mount plate has access holes to get the bolts from under the fly wheel but the shroud is also attached to the head. Careful with those bolts because they tend to shear in the head.  Also the heat shrouds for exhaust are attached to the blower housing along with the coil. 

Also the fuel line and linkage will need to be removed. 

Plan on spending some time with it. May be a good idea while the heat shields are off to adjust the valves. 

[WHX?? 48,828]

Thanks for the how to Richmond, I did get real lucky and just had to remove the  screen and there it was laying between fins of the flywheel. Never realized how big the flywheels are on these Onans.  Couldn't start the tractor or I would have destroyed the new reg. so had to do it in the cold instead of a nice warm shop! Lesson learned connect the wires first incase it falls!

[richmondred01 2,237]

Great news. The flywheels are 12 inches across. Glad you got it. 

All the best.