MalMac 1,331 #1 Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) Anybody have any experience with removing a Kohler Magnum exhaust outlet? I done a bunch of K series pipe outlet removal but the Magnum has got its own special outlet. I can't even get that locking ring to move. Maybe a torch on the block, but putting that kind of heat localized is probably not the best idea. Edited January 20, 2017 by MalMac 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry M-(Moderator) 2,172 #2 Posted January 20, 2017 Steve chiseled it out on his k181 thread.. The locking ring could make it more difficult....possibly . 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,845 #3 Posted January 20, 2017 The lock ring is an electrical conduit steel lock nut, a couple of good hits on a small chisel should cut it free. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obone 142 #4 Posted January 20, 2017 Depends on how much rust/time you have. I spent weeks and in the end had to use a saws all to cut the tube close to the block and then cut groves toward the block then again in side the tube, but not to the threads. Then I used a punch to hit it at 45 degrees toward the center of the tube into the block. It peels it out of the threads. Leaves a lot of flakes so cover stuff first. I did try heat first days before, but hate putting any heat any where near the head. Best of luck. Another way is to use paraffin wax with heat. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #5 Posted January 20, 2017 In the past I've collapsed the pipe with a chisel. Now BG In-Force is my best friend. That stuff destroys rust! The last 3 I've used it on just turned right out after a good soaking. Kroil has been moved to the back of the shelf. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,265 #6 Posted January 20, 2017 I just found a distributor for BG and he is bringing a can over to me this evening. I hope it is as good as you say. I have used Kroil in the past and use Freeze-off at present, which works better than most and really great at stuck screws on motorcycle lower engine cases. I do give it time to work, however, because the screws that hold them on are so fragile.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #7 Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) @MalMac Does the engine run? If so, run the engine to get the head & muffler nipple hot then shut the engine off and melt some paraffin wax on the threads. The wax will find its way through...Let it cool then use a pipewrench to just unscrew it. Like was said earlier....the locking nut will easily break off or unscrew....either one works. I'm sorry @obone I didn't realize you suggested paraffin wax in your post. Guess I didn't read it very well. Edited January 21, 2017 by KC9KAS added apology 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #8 Posted January 21, 2017 Alright I'll try and give the wax a try. Thanks guys, be a day or so. Let you know what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clem 28 #9 Posted January 21, 2017 Heat (hotter works better), wax, patience, persistence. Just like KC9KAS said, it will work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #10 Posted January 21, 2017 Just a FYI - 16 hours ago, ohiofarmer said: I just found a distributor for BG and he is bringing a can over to me this evening. I hope it is as good as you say. I have used Kroil in the past and use Freeze-off at present, which works better than most and really great at stuck screws on motorcycle lower engine cases. I do give it time to work, however, because the screws that hold them on are so fragile.... http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/jis-japanese-industrial-standard/view-all-products.html I don't want to derail a thread , but this is a good bit of info for anyone who turns a wrench - or in this case , a screwdriver . I learned the hard way working on bikes and Japanese trucks , like my old '77 Land Cruiser - if you don't use the right tool you'll destroy the fastener heads . I use my Vessel drivers pretty much every day - including on Philips screws since they will bite much more aggressively and are not designed to "cam out" . Those drivers will exceed the fastener's strength rating , so be aware of that . You can read about the differences in standards between JIS and common US market Philips until your eyes bleed , but there is a huge difference in tool performance . Trust me , if you haven't tried these things - you really need to at least once , that's all it takes . I give the Paraffin wax one shot , then notch the pipe nearly all the way through with either a hacksaw blade or a sawzall and crush it with a big pair of Chanellock pliers or vise-grips . I hate heating into the head/block area too much as it can seriously crack a block . Sarge 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,160 #11 Posted January 21, 2017 19 minutes ago, Sarge said: I give the Paraffin wax one shot , then notch the pipe nearly all the way through with either a hacksaw blade or a sawzall and crush it with a big pair of Chanellock pliers or vise-grips . I hate heating into the head/block area too much as it can seriously crack a block . Sarge Anymore I dont even try with any method but Sarges, and its pretty quick so you dont have to mess around with the waiting period on the other methods. And yes, you might get a little mark in the threads with the saw so some careful attention there, but I have never seen it to make a problem 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,462 #12 Posted January 21, 2017 A stubby 18 tooth sawzall blade , or even a good Bosch metal cutting blade in a jigsaw works just fine . The pipe cuts fairly easily - just keep checking it closely and keep that blade parallel to the pipe inlet or you'll notch the block . The cast iron compared to the steel will cut faster with most blades , so be careful . Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #13 Posted January 21, 2017 If possible I would like to save the exhaust nipple. That nipple is all one piece. It's just not a cast piece threaded on to a pipe nipple. If I can't then I will cut it and colaps the threads with a chisel like I have done several times with the K series. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #14 Posted January 21, 2017 5 hours ago, Sarge said: A stubby 18 tooth sawzall blade , or even a good Bosch metal cutting blade in a jigsaw works just fine . The pipe cuts fairly easily - just keep checking it closely and keep that blade parallel to the pipe inlet or you'll notch the block . The cast iron compared to the steel will cut faster with most blades , so be careful . Sarge I have had to cut a few out myself. When I get the stub out, I run a pipe tap into the exhaust port to clean up the threads. A "glob" of grease on the pipe tap will catch all the cuttings (if there are any). 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,331 #15 Posted January 22, 2017 Update..... knocked locking ring loose and it turned out by hand. I really felt like I had a dumb a&$ moment. Why didn't I try that in the first place. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,548 #16 Posted January 22, 2017 You're not the first! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #17 Posted January 24, 2017 On 1/22/2017 at 5:12 PM, MalMac said: Update..... knocked locking ring loose and it turned out by hand. I really felt like I had a dumb a&$ moment. Why didn't I try that in the first place. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. Don't feel bad or foolish. Good topic with good information for future reference. Something always to be learned. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites